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Asbestos is a perfect example of a silent and hidden killer. The harmful fibre it releases is not only totally invisible to the eye, but also absolutely odourless, therefore can’t be smelt. As a result, you can walk into a room completely filled with asbestos and you still won’t suspect a thing. If you live in an old building ( built before the 1980’s) in the UK, it’s very possible that there’s some asbestos in the house.

Asbestos causes up to 5000 deaths in the UK on a yearly basis. When asbestos materials are disturbed, they release asbestos fibres, which when inhaled can result in lung cancer, asbestosis as well as mesothelioma which are all painful and fatal diseases. And perhaps even more importantly, you won’t notice any symptoms of having these diseases until after several years after your first exposure to asbestos fibres.

Therefore, to reduce these numbers, there’s a crucial need to to know how to identify asbestos so as not to put both ourselves and loved ones at risk.

There are three types of asbestos which includes blue or crocidolite, brown or amosite, and white or chrysotile. So they can easily be identified by their respective colour names, right? Wrong! Asbestos fibres can not be seen with the eye, it can only be detected under a microscope. They’re very tiny and light, and once disturbed and in the air, they can float can days. Asbestos are commonly found in several building materials such as cement products, floor tiles, paints, adhesive, partitions, cladding, insulation, doors and lots more. With its wide acceptability in the past, any building product you can probably think of could contain asbestos.

Orangeries are being built by thousands in the country year in year out and for good reasons. Not only do they provide a cost effective alternative to moving home and boosting your property’s value, but can also be used all year round. If you’re looking for a room for all seasons, then you simply would not want to overlook building an orangery. They can be quite cosy in the winter months protecting you from the wind and rain, and keeping you warm, while you can throw the doors and windows to enjoy the sunshine during the summer months.

Orangeries can be used all year long as they’re made mostly of components which makes them stay warm all through the year, which is unlike conservatories that’s almost wholly made of glass meaning they are not suitable to be used during the colder months. This implies that orangeries can be used for almost any purpose throughout the year regardless of the time of year it is. What’s more? With a plethora of style and options of orangeries you can choose from, there’s hardly any space you can’t fit an orangery, be it small or large. In recent times, more and more homeowners are now using their orangeries for a variety of purposes such as game rooms, chill out area, lounges as well as dining rooms. They have this special ability to create a seamless transition from your home to your garden while also allowing you to alter the room’s layout all year round depending on your needs at the time.

Patios can be made from brick, natural stone or paving stones or slabs. These materials come in a huge range of colours, sizes and effects, so your patio can perfectly complement your garden space. Have a look for yourself or get a paver in to show you and bring samples.

Chimney liners are a very important component of the chimney, but the fact is most home and property owners either continue to overlook them or aren’t even aware of their existence. This is, however, quite understandable given the fact that they usually last a long period of time – more than 50 years. To ensure that they last that long, the question that arises is, do chimney liners need to be swept and cleaned? The short and simple answer to this question is yes, chimney liners definitely needs to be cleaned on a frequent basis. A chimney liner happens to be an essential part of your chimney. When it’s not cleaned, it tends to accumulate dust, soot and dirt which can give rise to a number of problems you’d rather want to avoid. Chimney liner are able to provide adequate protection to your flue but even at that the water, creosote and other contaminant build up can make the liner to deteriorate, and making it unsafe for usage. In other words, contrary to several belief, chimney liners do need the same amount of cleaning as chimneys without liners. Failure to sweep your chimney liners can give rise to the following problems:

• Creosote buildup. If your main source of fire is wood, then you’ll definitely have creosote present in your chimney. This is highly combustible and its buildup may lead to fire outbreak.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is said to be on the rise by NCBI and its primarily generated from heating systems which are terribly ventilated as a result of uncleaned or dirty chimneys.

• Where you live
• How big you want your driveway to be
• What colour or design you would like
• Whether any additional work will need to be completed to prepare the area for the driveway

You don’t always need to replace your gutters with your roof. Often people think that it’s a requirement, or simply the best thing to do, but it’s not always necessary. The reason why people think it’s required is because to re-roof a home, the guttering often needs to be removed and put back on.

If the time has come to replace your roof, then the chances are that your guttering is pretty old too. When you start to get quotes for your roof replacement, ask the roofer to take a look at your guttering as well. If there are signs of peeling, rust, cracks or sagging, then it makes sense to replace your gutters with your roof. If you get them done at the same time, you’ll save money labour costs, which is the reason why most homeowners do it.

Another reason to replace your gutters with your roof is the risk of damage. Re-roofing is a significant project, so the guttering needs to come off most of the time – running the risk of brackets and pipes getting damaged in the process. So if your guttering is still looking good right now but you think it might need replacing in a couple of years, it might be worth just doing it at the same time as your roof to save you money and the stress if damage does occur.

However, if your guttering has only recently been replaced, then there’s no need to replace it again with your roof. But because it needs to come off, make sure you speak to the roofing company about keeping it safe and doing their best to avoid damage. It’s also worse ensuring that they have the correct insurance to cover you both in case your guttering does get damaged during your roof replacement.

A tiled floor perfectly blends style with function, be it a sophisticated matte finish or a gleaming glossy sheen. Moisture and stain resistant, floor tiles represent a practical choice for a busy home and its elegance makes it even more suitable irrespective of the interior design project. What’s more? Floor tiles are generally cost effective and requires low maintenance, however, this doesn’t mean you should not show your tiled floor some love and care from time to time. If you’re wondering how to go about the maintenance of your tiled floor, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to share with you some maintenance tips to take care of your floor tiles. Let’s take a look!

• Get rid of excessive dirt on a regular basis. From mere food stains to more serious scratches, a busy domestic life can significantly shorten the lifespan of your tiled floor if care is not taken. While being easy to clean makes the maintenance quite simple, regular upkeep of the floor is quite important as loose dirt and debris can wear away your flooring’s finish over time.
• Do not ignore the grout. While the surface is stain and moisture resistant, same thing cannot be said of the grout. To keep the gout lines clean, simply make use of a soft bristle brush or a white pencil eraser.
• Try out deep cleaning your flooring. Although regular maintenance of your flooring is essential to have your floor looking clean and neat, deep cleaning is just as important to preserve the overall finish of the  floor.

• Tongue and groove timber boards
• Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
• Nails
• Hammer
• Saws, including a circular saw
• Chisel
• Mallet

1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.