Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Chesham.

If your solar panels are mounted on your roof and you require a ladder to reach them we would always recommend you get a professional to do the work for your own safety.

This is one of most common and discussed dampness found in building. In recent times, condensation is the most common form of dampness, however positive identification and the right corrective action for both is vital. Rising damp is simply referred to as the flow of water upwards and vertically through permeable wall structure, the water being gotten from the ground. The moisture rises via the capillaries or pores in the masonry, meaning that the masonry functions just like a wick. With rising damp, water rises through the mortar beds and through the bricks. The mortar forms the only continuous pathway for the moisture to rise up the wall. Even if a house is built from impervious bricks then moisture can still rise through the mortar beds, however if an impervious brick is incorporated then water will not rise even if the bricks happens to be quite porous. In other words, mortar beds are an integral element in the chemical treatment for rising damp.

The moisture coming from the ground features small quantity of soluble salt which includes nitrates, chlorides as well as sulphates. These are transmitted with the water up the wall and are deposited and left behind when the moisture evaporation when drying. After some time, the salts will slowly accumulate and form a salt band close to the peak height of the rising damp. Chlorides and sulphates absorb water from the environment. Overall, the higher the quantity of salts, the greater the absorption of moisture from the environment and even more so when under humid conditions. In other words, even if rising dampness has been controlled by the installation of damp proof course, these salts can still make the wall and any affected decorations to remain damp.

Many tree surgeons offer a specialist service for trees that cannot be easily felled via a simple cut. Sectional dismantling is used which involves making several cuts to slice the tree into small sections which can be brought back to the ground safely. Using this method will allow tree surgeons to fell trees that pose risks to nearby buildings in a safe manner.

The surveyors will check the entire property for signs of asbestos. They may take samples which can be taken away for anaylsis. If they find asbestos, they will inspect its condition, what grade it is and advise you of the best course of action to take.

How To Lay Block Paving

Do you wish to know how to install block paving? We’ve got you covered! Here, you’ll find a useful step by step guide that’ll provide you with all the necessary information to lay a wide range of block paving products available in the market today. You must, however, note that the installation of block paving can be a tricky affair and should not be attempted unless you have undergone a proper training or have a good experience in the field. If otherwise, we’d advise you to leave the task for a reliable block laying professional to guarantee the best results and also avoid making costly mistakes.

lDesign

• Draw up a design to perfectly suits your needs.

• Decide on the type of block as well as colour.

lExcavation

• Use a mini excavator or a JCB ( depending on the size of the job) to excavate the driveway.

• Identify and mark out the area to be excavated.

• Dug out the area until you reach a suitable level

• Ensure that the proposed finish level is 150mm underneath the damp proof course in any of the adjoining building’s brick.

lEdge Restraints

• Build a 100mm depth-thick concrete foundation with the help of a concrete mixer, 1 part cement and 6 parts ballast.

• Position the kerb unit on top of the level with a string line and spirit level.

• Use a trowel and rubber mallet to mortar the kerb unit to the foundation.

• Haunch the back of the kerb units in such a way that the concrete reach half way up the kerb’s rear.

lSubbase

• Put the crushed concrete in the edge restraints and ensure it’s at the desired level of 50mm.

• Use a vibrating plate to compact and level

lScreeding

• Apply a layer of sharp sand (to 50mm depth) and campact it using a vibrating plate.

• Apply second layer of sharp sand (to 20mm depth) on top of the first layer.

• Level the second layer to the correct falls.

lInstallation Of Paving

• Lay the block paving starting from the bottom of a slope.

• Ensure the blocks are placed at about 10mm to 15mm above the required finish level.

• Make sure the blocks used are between 3-5 packs as you proceed with your desired pattern. You may need to cut smaller block pieces to fill smaller gaps.

lFinishing Touches

• Clear out the area to ensure no debris is left on the blocks.

• Put kiln dried sand and brush across the whole of the area, ensuring the sands falls between the blocks’ joints.

• Compact the drive with the vibrating plate.

• Brush more kiln dried sand over the area and compact again

• Repeat the process until the joints are full of sand.

How Much Is A Landlord Gas Certificate?

Do you know as a landlord in the UK, not only does the law requires you to conduct an annual check on all your gas appliances and chimney, but you’d also have to pay for it? Hence, giving birth to the commonly asked question, how much is a landlord gas certificate? With so many variances in CP12 certificate prices everywhere, it can be so confusing knowing the actual one you’re expected to pay. Just by surfing the internet alone you’d come across loads of ads claiming they can help you with a cheap gas safety certificate only to discover that reverse is the case when you reach out to them. Here, you’ll get to know the real amount you’re expected to pay for the annual checks on your gas appliances and chimney.

First and foremost, let’s look at what a Gas Safety Certificate really is. This is a certificate that’s given out to landlords and property management companies after a check has been carried out on all their gas appliances and chimney. This statutory check is expected to be done every 12 months to ensure the safety of all those who make ue of your rental property. Homeowners living in ther property are not required by the law to conduct annual gas safety check, but it’s highly recommended that you get in touch with a Gas Safety engineer to ensure the safety of both you and your loved ones.

As a landlord in the UK, to get all your gas appliances and chimney inspected by an approved Gas Safety engineer and obtain your Gas Safety Certificate, you’re expected to pay within a range of £55 to £65. However, you should note that this cost will increase depending on the number of gas appliances you have (about 30% increase for each additional gas appliance).

Once you have your new bathroom installed, or perhaps you’re only replacing the old downlights, you’d probably want to know how to go about fitting your new bathroom downlights. If yes, then you’re not alone! This is a very common question amongst several homeowners and we wish to guide you through once and for all. However, it must be said that if you are not a competent DIYer or probably lack the confidence or skills to pull this off, then it’s advisable to hire a professional to get the best results and also save yourself some money and time.

Here are the list of the tools you’ll need to fit your bathroom downlights: Tape measure, chalk line or laser, pencil, pad saw, hand drill, hole saw and screw drivers.

✓ Measure the bathroom ceiling and mark out the central point of the light which will be where the downlights will be placed. Drill a small pilot hole here.

✓ Check above the ceiling to ensure that there’s no pipes, joists or wires in the way. It’s always a good practice to make sure that there’s sufficient room around where the downlight is to be installed in order to avoid placing it too close to a joist or any other obstacle. You should try as much as possible to maintain a 6 inch gap around the spot where the downlight is placed to make sure the fitting does not overheat.

✓ Use a hole saw or a plasterboard saw to make the cut out for the downlight. Check the downlight’s box for instruction on the size.

✓ Once you’ve been able to make a clean cut ceiling hole, pull through the wiring through the hole so that the downlight can be wired. Once done, then you can fit the downlight into the hole by holding the two springs back against the sides of the downlighter and push up into the hole.

In the UK, more than 50 percent of the money paid for utility bills is aimed at heating and hot water costs as stated by the Energy Saving Trust. This also means that when you settle for an old or ageing boiler, you’ll have to unnecessarily incur high utility bill in order to heat your home and have hot water on demand. In this kind of situation, the most effective and practical solution is to fit a new gas boiler in your home. This will provide you several benefits such as improved efficiency and reliability as well as reduced operating costs.

However, the only drawback here is the fact that removing your old gas boiler and replacing it with a new gas boiler isn’t a 5 minute task. And as you would have expected, like many other home improvement project there’s always an element of disruption that you’ll have to put into consideration when fitting a new gas boiler system. Good news is, with a qualified and experienced heating companies, these disruptions can be kept at a minimum. So now let’s take a look at how long it’ll take to replace a gas boiler depending on the type.

✓ An existing combi boiler upgrade - Installation times may vary, but typically the removal of an existing combi boiler and installation of a new one will usually be completed in a day - about four to six hours.

✓ Converting a regular to a combi boiler - Due to the fact that these type of project is usually labour intensive, it’ll take longer to complete - about 2 days.

✓ First time installation of new boiler to a home. This will usually take about 3 or more days because new pipes and other tasks need to the installation will be carried out.