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If you feel your sewer line is clogged, the best course of action is to have it cleared as soon as possible and even more so, by an experienced professional. When left untreated, this can lead to water leakages which can damage your home or business facility. And in serious situations, it can lead to pipe burst which will definitely cost you a lot more money to fix when compared to taking a quick action to unclog the sewer line blockages. If you’re thinking about hiring a professional, then you’d probably want to know how much its going to cost. In this post, we’re going to look at the cost of clearing a sewer line and the possible influencing factors.

The cost of clearing sewer lines depend on a number of factors. These factors include the type of the blockage, the method used, the location of the property as well as the ease of access. Using the blockage type as an example, a small blockage in a toilet or sink is usually priced within the range of £50 to about £70. However, for an extensive blockage deep in your sewer lines, you may end up incurring anything within the range of £150 to about £200.

There are also a bunch of methods that can be used to clear blockages from a sewer line which will also play a key role in the final cost of the service. These methods include drain jetting which usually costs within the range of £70 to £175, drain rodding from £80 to about £145 as well as a full system scrub which should cost about £150 to £200.

Do note that the above costs are just an estimate and other factors as mentioned earlier on will also come into play.

Ponding is where you see pools of water appearing on your flat roof. Unless your roof is leaking or showing other signs of damage, you don’t need to replace it. When you do have your flat roof replaced, tell the contractor so they can find out the cause of the ponding.

First and foremost, the purpose of a landlord insurance is simple and pretty straightforward. It protects against risks associated with your rental property as well as activity. Most policies start out with building insurance as well as property owners’ liability insurance but you’re absolutely free to include several other covers. These covers can include tenant default or accidental damage, loss of rent and more depending on your needs. It’s important to note that varying types of landlord insurance provides coverage for different sorts of risks. For instance, building insurance provides coverage for the cost of repairing or rebuilding your property, while contents insurance provides coverage for contents if they’re damaged or stolen. However, the question is, does landlord insurance cover boiler? In this post, we’re going to shed more light into this to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, landlord insurance can definitely cover boiler break down! However, this is usually possible only if you select this option when you purchase your landlord insurance policy. With some boiler cover providers, you’ll have to include a home emergency cover to your landlord insurance so as to cover any form of boiler break down. Once this is done, if the boiler in your rental property starts to malfunction or stops functioning, a Gas Safe registered engineer would be sent to your premises to help out with the situation. With this, the repairing cost of your heating system would be covered by the insurance excluding any excess and up to the limit of your policy.

Installing a plasterboard to a ceiling is not the easiest of tasks, and even though it can be done by one person, it’s usually a lot easier when done by two people. If you’re an experienced DIYer, this task becomes a lot easier to undertake, with both confidence and patience needed to ensure a successful outcome. If you lack these essential attributes, we’d strongly recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the processes involved to plasterboard your ceiling. Let’s take a look!

✓ Take a measurement of your ceiling. Knowing the length and width of your room is crucial here. You have nothing to worry about if it’s not a perfect square as that’ll only mean more cutting.

✓ Make the necessary plasterboard cuts. Cut the plasterboard sheet with a utility knife in accordance to ceiling space measured.

✓ Remove existing plaster. Once done, examine the trusses and beams to ensure they’re still in a great condition before you proceed. Also, make sure there’s no loose plaster that can compromise your new installation.

✓ Apply construction adhesive. For a better fit, you’d have to apply adhesive along the beams while also avoiding the edges as this could affect your screw placement.

✓ Start in a level corner. You have to start the installation from the most level corner.

✓ Work along the outside edges. Secure it using a screw along the outside edge. This will make your plasterboard held to your ceiling perfectly. It won’t bend or break as your proceed with the installation.

✓ Complete the installation. Install the plasterboard on your entire ceiling and complete the installation by taping the seams and plastering for a smooth surface.

So you’ve identified the type of garden room you’d like to construct in your property, chances are, you’ve already worked out where to put it and can’t wait wait to start spending valuable time on it. It’s very understandable to be a little impatient with the whole idea considering the numerous benefits provided by a garden, but just before you proceed with your plans there’s the need to first check whether or not you’re going to need a planning permission.

Factors determining whether you’ll need a planning permission includes where you intend to place it, the size of the room, how it’s going to be used as well as your location.

Generally, most garden rooms do not require a planning permission as they are categorized as outbuildings. In other words, you’re permitted to construct one so far you comply with some specific rules and have permitted development rights at your home or in your area.

If you want to build your garden room under permitted development, you have to comply with the following rules:

✓ The garden room shouldn’t be in front of your home or property.

✓ The total area of your extensions, sheds and outbuildings ( which includes your garden room), must not go beyond 50 percent of the total land area surrounding your property.

✓ It must be a single storey that’s less than 3 metres high ( 4 metres for a dual pitched roof). And it must not go beyond 2.5 metres in height if the structure is within 2 metres of your boundary.

✓ The eaves must not go beyond 2.5 metres above ground level.

✓ It must not feature a balcony, veranda or any raised platform

✓ It must not be a self contained living accommodation.

You should note that if your home is a listed building or you happen to live in a designated area, then you might not have permitted development rights.

How Much To Change Roof On Conservatory?

If your existing conservatory roof is looking a bit tired and worn out, it may just be time you stopped the frequent repairs and maintenance, and start to think about getting a replacement. However, before you change the roof on your conservatory, there’s always a need to find out the cost to complete the project before you proceed so as to help you set a budget and start to plan. In this article, we’re going to give you a rough estimate of the cost of a changing a conservatory roof. Let’s take a look!

Generally, the prices of conservatory roofs varies largely on the a number of factors which includes the material used as well as the size of the conservatory.

✓ Polycarbonate conservatory roof - if you’re looking for the most affordable conservatory roof material option, then this is your material. Polycarbonate is very easy to work on and needs just a little framing skill which makes labour quite cheap. Furthermore, each panels are also relatively inexpensive when compared to glass panel or tile area. The price of this material will normally range between £200 to £300 per square metre for installation.

✓ Glass conservatory roof. This material is very energy efficient and will also add great value to your home. The price of this conservatory roof material will usually range between £300 to £360 per square metre for installation.

✓ Solid conservatory roof. This conservatory roof material possesses the best insulation properties alongside the longest lifespan. The solid tile roof the most secure which also offers the most privacy alongside many other benefits. These benefits, however, can only imply a higher cost. For a solid conservatory roof, the price per metre square normally varies between £445 to £650.

Conservatories are a very popular structure in the UK, however one of their major setbacks is the fact that they can easily overheat or get too cold. This is something all conservatory owners in the UK can relate with as it often gets too hot during the warmer months and can also easily get too cold during the winter months. As a result of this, there’s a need for good calculations to be carried out by a professional surveyor to ensure that enough cooling power is recommended. If you own a conservatory and you’re thinking about installing a heating and cooling system to make the space very comfortable and relaxing, then you’d probably want to know what the best conservatory air conditioning system is. In this post, we aim to give you an in depth insight into this to help make sure you make the best informed decision possible. Let’s take a look!

Generally, low wall mounted air conditioners are often the best choice when it comes to conservatory air conditioning. As a result of the large amount of glass used in conservatory construction, several conservatories don’t have full sized solid walls. Consequently, specialist low wall mounted units can be installed quite easily. They tend to be a bit more costly than the conventional high wall units, however they’re able to offer an impressive solution to resolve the problem. What’s more? Low wall mounted air conditioning systems are also visually appealing because as with radiators, they are positioned out of your line of sight in such a way that complements the room.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar