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Do you wish to have your residential or commercial space tiled? With a plethora of benefits that comes with a tiled floor, it’s little surprise more and more home and property owners are going for this special flooring type. Not only are they able to improve the curb appeal of any property, but they’re also resistant to moisture helping to increase the durability of the house – be it wall or floor tiles.

Tiling a floor is not the simplest of tasks and should be done with utmost care and attention to details. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, we’d recommend you hire a reputable professional who can guarantee the best outcome the first time.  In this guide, you’ll find processes involved in floor tiling to help put you in the right direction.

Floor Tiles Installation Procedures

1. Floor Preparation
   The first step is to prepare the floor by moving all objects like mortar, adhesives and more. Use concrete patching compound to fill ill low spots and cracks, until the floor is levelled.
2. Ensure the floor is dry and clean.
3. Pattern Layout
   Take the measurement of each wall’s length while also taking into account the room’s diagonals.To help place the tiles in an orderly manner, make use of a chalk to mark down lines on the levelled surface in question and ensure it’s parallel to the walls.
4. Adhesive Preparation
   Mix the appropriate amount of water with the adhesive (bonding agent). The mixture should be toothpaste-like thick to ensure the durability of the tiles.
5. Tiles Placement
   Depending on the tile’s size, evenly spread the mortar on the floor using a notched trowel. Lay the first tile on the bonding agent (adhesive or mortar) and apply a gentle and little pressure on the tile.
   
   Repeat the technique for other tiles using plastic spacers to ensure the edges and corners are properly aligned.
6. Tiles Cutting
   Cut the tiles (if necessary) with the help of a wet saw or scoring cutter featuring a diamond-tripped blade.
7. Grout Application
   Filling of the tiles’ gap is done using the grout. It can be applied to the joints with a rubber float. After application, allow the grout to set up for some minutes. Use sponge and a bucket of water to clear out any adhesive leftover.
8. Grout Sealing
   Use a foam brush or applicator bottle for the sealants’ application. Clean out excess sealer within 10 minutes.

Most companies will make the building control application on your behalf and ensure that all the work is completed to the right standards. When a building inspector has inspected it, you’ll get a certificate. It usually takes around 6-8 weeks after completion to come.

Conservatories are a very popular structure in the UK, however one of their major setbacks is the fact that they can easily overheat or get too cold. This is something all conservatory owners in the UK can relate with as it often gets too hot during the warmer months and can also easily get too cold during the winter months. As a result of this, there’s a need for good calculations to be carried out by a professional surveyor to ensure that enough cooling power is recommended. If you own a conservatory and you’re thinking about installing a heating and cooling system to make the space very comfortable and relaxing, then you’d probably want to know what the best conservatory air conditioning system is. In this post, we aim to give you an in depth insight into this to help make sure you make the best informed decision possible. Let’s take a look!

Generally, low wall mounted air conditioners are often the best choice when it comes to conservatory air conditioning. As a result of the large amount of glass used in conservatory construction, several conservatories don’t have full sized solid walls. Consequently, specialist low wall mounted units can be installed quite easily. They tend to be a bit more costly than the conventional high wall units, however they’re able to offer an impressive solution to resolve the problem. What’s more? Low wall mounted air conditioning systems are also visually appealing because as with radiators, they are positioned out of your line of sight in such a way that complements the room.

If you’re conservatory leaks every time it rains, has degraded roof or is apparently worn, then it’s high time some repair and maintenance work is carried out. However, several home and property owners tend to overlook this type of repair work because they believe it’s going to cost them a lot of money. In reality, this need not be the case when you work with any of the accredited tradespeople or companies in your local area as they’re always able to provide quotes that’ll suit your budget. If you’re wondering what the cost of repairing your conservatory is, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you an idea of a conservatory repair cost range. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that there’s no single and straightforward answer to this question as there are multiple factors that influences the repair cost of a conservatory. These factors include the type of damage(s) involved, the materials used, the experience of company hired, your location and many more.

Generally, for conservatory fixtures and fittings repair jobs, we have a lot of parts to consider. For replacement roof panels, the cost you should expect to incur is within the range of £30 to £50 per panel. For sealed glazing unit replacement, you’re likely to incur within the range of £17 to £19 per unit. For door re-hung, you should expect to incur about £19 to £22 per door leaf. For leak tracing and repairs, you’re likely to spend within the range of £18 to £22 per hour, while call out charges will possibly range from £30 to £50 per visit.

Do you want to know the level of thickness a driveway concrete slab should be? Well, you are not alone! So many other home owners ask this question on a regular basis and reasonably so. In order to prevent cracks on your concrete over time, it’s crucial to ensure an even thickness across your driveway concrete. To determine the necessary thickness of your driveway concrete, there are some questions that must be answered. These includes:

• What’s the number of vehicles you expect to have on your driveway?

• Do you plan on parking heavy, industrial vehicles on it?

For a standard passenger vehicle driveway, you’d have a driveway spanning 8 to 9 feet in width as well as 15 to 18 feet for double width. The thickness for this type of driveway concrete is usually 4 inches of non-reinforced pavement. Ultimately, this enables you to park everyday family cars on it without having to worry about it cracking due to the car’s weight. Also in order to prevent cracks, it’s expected that the driveway should be sloped towards the street as this would make sure that there’s a run off of water especially for areas that experience lots of flooding. In addition, there’s also the need to install joints to prevent cracking. For the standard 4 inch thick driveway, these joints should be positioned about 10 feet apart.

Finally for parking heavy industrial vehicles, your concrete driveway is expected to be thicker in order to cope with the added weight. Typically, the concrete driveway will require a thickness of about 5 inches. The additional one inch may not sound much, but the fact is this can increase the load carrying capacity of the concrete driveway by up to 50 percent.

There’s a need to ensure that all the paperwork are in place,before putting your house up for sale on the property market. An very good example of such essential document is the Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) which is used as a proof to attest to the fact that the electrical installation works carried out on the property in question was actually done and also whether or not it satisfies the building regulations. It’ll be a contravention of the law to put your house up for sale or actually sell it without producing this important document. Therefore, if you’re looking to sell your house you may wish to know the electrical documentations you need to complete the task. In this post, we aim to provide you an in depth insight into the electrical certificates needed to sell your house while also helping you make informed decisions along the process. Let’s take a look!

You’ll need to obtain two certificates in the event whereby the electrical work done was performed by a registered and qualified electrician. The two documents include:

• The Building Regulations Compliance Certificate - This is provided to confirm that the electrical works done complies with the Building regulations.
• The Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC), alternatively you can have a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate which is provided to confirm that the electrical works done satisfies the BS 7671.

In addition, the local building control body must be provided with a copy of these documents. In such an event whereby the electrical work was completed after 2013 and either it was done by yourself or by an individual who isn’t a registered professional, then there’s a need to make sure that work is inspected by a registered third party certifier within 5 days of completion. If the work is found to be satisfactory, you’ll be issued a copy of an Electrical Installation Condition Report.

In most areas, you will not need planning permission. However, if the property is listed or in a conservation area, you will need listed building consent or planning permission to paint the exterior. A surveyor or architect's advice will be invaluable as they can help with this process.

1. Prepare the sub-baseThe driveway company will excavate, or dig, the existing surface down to a depth of around 200mm. They will remove any debris from the area may place it in a skip or arrange for it to be removed in another way. When they dig down to the sub-base of your previous driveway, they will assess how much hardcore they need and arrange for that to be delivered to the site. They will then spread the hardcore across the sub-base to create a level surface to pour the concrete on. Most good contractors will apply a gel to any walls and doors to protect them from concrete splashes. They will also add any gulley tops, manhole covers or shuttering that’s required.
2. Installation and imprintingNext, the tradespeople will have the concrete either poured from a large mixer vehicle or barrow it in from a mixer and pour onto the surface. They level it with rakes, then add a colour surface hardener in a colour of your choice. This will give the driveway its permanent colour. They will then wait until the concrete has hardened to the correct consistency for imprinting the pattern, then will use special tools and stencils to make the pattern that you asked for. They will then spread a colour powder called a release agent over the surface, and leave to dry for 1 to 2 days depending on the weather conditions.
3. CleaningWhen the contractors return, they will add crack control cuts into the concrete. This is important because concrete expands and contracts in the heat, so there needs to be some give to stop any larger cracks from forming. Then everything is power washed clean, and a chemical wash is also used on the concrete to ensure it’s completely dust-free. The installers will ensure all your walls and doors are clean, which will hopefully be an easy job if they used wall gel.
4. SealingThe final step is to seal the driveway. There needs to have been at least two dry days before the tradespeople can do it, so you might find it’s best to have your pattern imprinted driveway installed in the summer. The contractors will blow any debris away from the surface and dry any damp areas where necessary. They will then add an anti-slip agent to the sealant and brush it on. It’s best to not walk or drive onto your new concrete driveway for about 4 days after sealing to allow everything to set. But after that, you’re ready to use your new driveway!