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Recent Shop Fitter Enquiries

02 May

Roof Windows & Skylights

Lybster - KW2

Enquiry from: Kirstin D

Start Date: 1 to 3 months

Wondering about the cost of adding a couple of skylights to a gently sloping fibreglass roof on a small extension

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25 Apr

Asbestos Removal

Lybster - KW3

Enquiry from: John K

Start Date: Immediate

Extension roof removed 8 mtrs by 3 mtrs. Possibly asbestos corregated sheets

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17 Mar

Conservatory Repair

Lybster - KW3

Enquiry from: Yvonne J

Start Date: Immediate

One glass roof panel replaced with polycarbonate panel. Size approximately 1.8m x 1m

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10 Oct

Aerial & Satellite Installation

Lybster - KW3

Enquiry from: Sheena G

Start Date: Immediate

Aerial has been damaged and we need someone to fix it please

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11 Jun

Asphalt or Tarmac Driveway

Dunbeath - KW6

Enquiry from: India S

Start Date: Immediate

Part of land cleared and tarmac or something similar

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25 Jan

Aerial & Satellite Installation

Dunbeath - KW6

Enquiry from: Tracey C

Start Date: Immediate

Sky dish re-aligned and stronger bracket (protection- to stop moving)

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How much do Shop Fitter services cost?

How much do Shop Fitters in Latheron charge?
Costs for Shop Fitters around Latheron can be very different relying on the type of service that you require to have carried out in your residence. It's the inquiry we get asked a lot "how much do Shop Fitters in Latheron charge?". It's generally good to have an idea of how much a Shop Fitter will likely charge for their work. Prices will certainly rise and fall based on the products and also the tradesman chosen. The list shows the kinds of work that Shop Fitters generally do and the regular price range of these tasks. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so costs do fluctuate by job.

Tasks that Shop Fitters in Latheron can do:

View our Shop Fitter cost guide View our Shop Fitter advice

Shop Fitter FAQs

How long do double glazed sealed units last?
When it comes to how long double glazed sealed units (the glass inside the window) last, a lot of it is down to the quality of the glass and the environment that your windows sit in. It’s not uncommon for your window frames themselves (especially if they are uPVC) to last longer than your sealed units. Sealed units are called that because they’re two panes of glass sealed together with an air gap in between. They use what’s called a ‘perimeter seal’ to protect the air gap between the panes, and is usually made of butyl mastic which retains a desiccant within a perforated metallic spacer bar. The desiccant’s job is to absorb any moisture which finds its way into the air gap to stop your window from misting up on the inside. When a sealed unit fails, or is ‘blown’, it’s usually because moisture builds up around the seal and causes it to fail. Sealed units won’t last forever, so you will eventually end up with condensation inside the panes of your double glazing, but in an ideal environment your double glazed sealed units could last up to 30 years, with some manufacturers claiming as long as 40 years. But they do require a bit of maintenance and the position of your windows will also make a difference as to how long they last. There are a few things that determine how long a sealed unit will last:
  • Climate - If your window faces south, it will be subject to direct sunlight for a lot of the day. This tends to cause the sealed unit to fail more quickly – a south-facing window may last between 10-25 years. This is because the spacer bars will twist as the temperature rises and causes the adhesive holding them together to eventually fail.
  • Moisture - Windows in kitchens and bathrooms tend to fail more quickly because they come into contact with moisture more often. For example, if water gets on your windowsill when you shower, the seal around the glass will come loose more quickly if it’s constantly wet.
When you replace the sealed units in your windows or get completely new double glazing, make sure you choose an installer that uses quality products and will take all the steps to ensure that your sealed units are kept away from moisture as much as possible.
how long does a boiler service take?

How Long Does A Boiler Service Take?

Servicing of your boiler is a very crucial activity which does not only help in keeping your heating system in a top condition, but also assists in ensuring the safety of both you and your loved ones. If you carry out a regular boiler service you’ll be able to identify any possible fault your boiler may have on time before it leads to a more serious issue or even a boiler breakdown. As a result, you’ll be able to save yourself some time and money, but more importantly will save you from any dangerous risk that may result from gas leak in a boiler. The best time for a boiler service is in the summer when you’d probably would not really need the system, so you can take advantage of that as well as the possible lower boiler servicing cost during this period.

Before we look into the amount of time a boiler service should take, let’s first consider what should be done during a boiler service.

✓ Visual inspection. This is a check carried out by the heating engineer to ensure your boiler still meet the existing standards and requirements while also looking for any faults.

✓ Removal of boiler casing. There’s the need to ensure everything is working just fine and also to clean the boiler’s interior. These inspections should include the burner, heat exchanger, main injector and spark probe.

✓ Flue check. This involves making sure that there’s no form of obstructions in the flue terminals as also to ensure that the flue is well installed.

✓ Gas pressure check. This involves making sure that the boiler working with the appropriate pressure.

✓ Boiler fired up. This involves checking for any operating issues.

Generally, a boiler service should be completed within 30 minutes, however this time may vary largely depending on the brand and model.

How much do solar panels cost?
The cost of solar panels has reduced significantly over the years. While a system may have cost you up to £20,000 in the early days, that’s not the case anymore. So how much do solar panels cost today? The cost of an average 4kW system on an average home will set you back between £4,500-6,500. But pair that with the savings on your electricity bills and payments that you can receive from the Smart Export Guarantee (SEG), the net cost could be much less. The SEG is a payment from your energy supplier for any electricity that you don’t use and send back to the grid. Each energy supplier can set their own rate, but it must be above zero at all times. This replaces the Feed-in Tariff Scheme (FITs) which used to pay solar panel owners per kW of electricity they generated as well as that which they sent back to the grid. This was a much more lucrative scheme which saw homeowners earn back the cost of their system within a few years, but it ended in March 2019. Now, with the SEG and your savings on your electricity bills, you could save up to £330 a year – meaning you could break even within 14 years. Solar panel systems are likely to last up to 25 years, so they’re still well worth investing in. Combine that with the saving of 1.29 tonnes of carbon dioxide every year, and you’ve done your bit for the environment.
how deep is a septic tank buried?

How Deep Is A Septic Tank Buried?

Septic tanks may be an unknown concept to a lot of individuals in town and cities, but to those in the rural areas where certain things are unavailable, septic tanks are a necessity. After all, modern amenities such as appropriate plumbing is something we all need to live a comfortable and conveniently lifestyle.

If you happen to be interested in knowing more about the septic tank concept, you just moved into a house with a septic tank already built in or perhaps you want to have a septic tank system installed on your property, then you may likely want to know just how deep septic tanks are buried. Regardless of what the case may be, being aware of the depth of your septic tank can be a very tricky affair given the circumstances and even more so, when you’re ignorant of the positioning of the lids.

When it comes to the depth of septic tank systems, the general rule of thumb is that they should be buried within the range of four inches to four feet underground.

If you’re more particular about locating where your septic tank is built in, there are a few easy ways to find out. Firstly, you can let your sewer pipes lead you in. Generally, the tank as well as drain field are normally fitted parallel to the sewer line which extends from your home. Secondly, you can also look for visual clues to check if there’s either septic tank risers or clean out ports that is coming out from the ground. This way, you’ll able to tell right away where the septic tank system is located underground. However, if there are no visual clues then you can make some intelligent guesses. Simply take a look at your building’s piping and conditions of the property to have a good idea of where the tank is buried.

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to connect a TV to an aerial?

Your TV and aerial need to be connected by coaxial cable for your TV to work. Most properties have wall mounted connection boxes – similar to electrical plugs – that you can simply plug your TV into. If you don’t have a cable, it’s easy to pick up one from most DIY shops.

If you’re installing a new outside aerial, you may be able to reuse the old cable. If you can’t, you’ll need to route a new one down from your aerial to any sockets you need. Coaxial cable can be routed down the exterior of your property, through loft spaces, under floors and along skirting boards.

How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
How much is plasterboard?

How Much Is Plasterboard?

Do you wish to install plasterboard in the nearest future? If yes, then you’d probably want to know the amount it’s going to cost. Here, we’ll give you a detailed plasterboarding prices breakdown to help you calculate an estimate for your project.

A plasterboarding project including the cost of both materials and labour with the use of a high quality panels is about £4 to £5 per panel. Therefore, if you wish to calculate on the basis of a standard room about 12x12ft would cost about £500 to £600. However, this price can fluctuate significantly depending on the professional as well as the quality of the materials you wish to incorporate in completing the project. We’d recommend that you hire the services of a professional with accreditation as he would provide you with a detailed quote with no hidden charges or costs. To give you a clearer idea, we’ve taken the time out to put together some estimated costs of employing the services of a seasoned professional plasterer to supply and plasterboard your home or office. Let’s take a look!

• A 6 x 12ft room with panels and plasterboard should have an average cost within the range of £250 to £400 and duration of one to two days.

• The individual cost of plasterboarding or drywalling a standard 12 x 12ft room should have an average cost within the range of £500 to £600 and duration of one to three days. These includes 60% for materials used (£330), 30% for tradespersons (£165) and the remaining 10% for waste removal (£55) to give a total cost of £550.

• A 12 x 24ft room with panels and plasterboard should have an average cost within the range of £1000 to £1200 and duration of three to six days.

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