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Paving comes in a wide range of colours and patterns. Consider using a contrasting colour for the edges of your patio or driveway for a tidy effect. A paving specialist can advise you on different combinations possible, alternatively, have a look online at what products, shapes and colours are produced.

This will depend on the size of the garden and the amount of plants within it. For small gardens, fortnightly or monthly visits by a professional gardener will generally be sufficient. For larger gardens or gardens with a lot of plants, weekly visits are best. Some larger projects such as hedge cutting or tree felling may need additional one off visits.

One of the major challenges faced by double gates is wind as this is always blowing over the gates and slamming them together anytime it passes by. So how do you tackle this? Since you can do only so little about the wind, the only option you have is to enforce or secure your double gates. This is quite simple if you have the adequate knowledge and skills, if not, we’d strongly recommend calling in a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. In this post, we’re going to take your through the processes involved in securing a double gate to ensure your project turns out a success. Let’s take a look!

1. Hammer a pipe into the ground. Since this isn’t a heavy construction work, you need not worry about water finding its way into your basement. To do this, simply open the gate and stretch it to determine how far it can go. Once done, proceed to mark the place right below the gate’s edge. This is the spot where you will hammer in the metal pipe.
2. Install the lower bracket. With the pipe in place, the next thing is to have the lower bracket installed. Start by drilling some pilot holes if necessary, then screw the nails right into the wooden gate via the bracket’s holes.
3. Take measurements for the top bracket using the cane bolt. Once done with the lower bracket installation, you’ll have to bring out the cane bolt and attach it to the gate to give you an idea of where to place the top bracket - mark the spot using a pencil.
4. Install the top bracket. Start by removing the cane bolt and install the top bracket just as you’ve done with the lower bracket.
5. Install the cane bolt through both brackets.

The bigger the ground source heat pump, the better right? Wrong! And you’ll definitely be sorry to make such a huge mistake. When planning to install a heat pump, determining the size of the ground source heat pump is not as direct and straightforward as many homeowners would think. Here, you’ve got only a small margin for error. When the pump is too small, the heat pump will make use of the backup heater too often and in the event whereby the heat pump is too big, it’s going to short cycle. Both situations are preferably avoided as they’ll both leave you with an expensive and inefficient system.

To get the accurate size of a heat pump, there’s usually the need to hire the services of an expert and licensed heat pump installer who possesses a top notch design calculation software. In reality, the majority of inefficient systems are caused by a lack or poor understanding of the suitable design software.

There are many factors that can influence the calculation of a home’s heat pumps size. These includes

✓ Radiators and underfloor heating sizes

✓ Insulation, property fabric as well as heat loss

✓ The number of rooms in the property

✓ The types of rooms and their uses.

✓ The desired indoor temperature for varying rooms

✓ Seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Generally, a bigger house will require a bigger ground source heat pump. With an eye on the age of the property, heat loss as well as the types of the rooms, a house of about 100 square metre can require up to 4kW ground source heat pump. And for a house that’s about 200 square metre, the ground source heat pump also doubles to 8kW.

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, loft insulation does cause condensation. Over the years, problems with condensation in loft spaces have become increasingly common. While this may not be harmful in anyway, when the condensation becomes excessive it can lead to more serious issues taking root in your loft like wet rot, dry rot as well as black spot mould. Generally, the best thing to do if you’re concerned about the condensation in your loft space and that it may rapidly become a bigger problem is to get in touch with a damp specialist as soon as possible.

Even though insulating your loft space comes with a wide array of benefits like making the top floor rooms warmer, it’s however comes at the cost of making your loft or room space cooler. Condensation in lofts take place primarily due to the humid air making its way through insulation or other gaps into the loft space and touching a cooler surface which in turn results in beads of moisture on the timbers, lintels as well as the underside of the roof. This is why its always a great idea make use of thermal insulation with a vapour barrier that’s installed on the warmer side of the insulating material.

Condensation in loft is caused by excess moisture in the air and lack of adequate air ventilation. Here are some top reasons that gives rise to this in the loft:

• Extra insulation has been installed in the loft leading to a restriction on the natural air circulation in the property.
• When the storage boxes or other items that has been stockpiled in the loft blocks the roof vents.
• The release of steam and moist air into the loft space by hot water tanks.

Can You Plaster Over WallPaper?

If you have wallpaper installed on your wall surface and you’re considering plastering the wall, when you put into consideration the stress involved in removing a wallpaper you may want to consider plastering directly over the wallpaper. This is quite understandable as removing a wallpaper can be quite time consuming and tedious, but plastering directly over wallpaper is a mistake that should never be made. Plastering over wallpaper is in no way a viable option due to the fact that it can only turn out disastrous after a couple of weeks or even days in some cases as the plaster will crack and crumble. As a result, you’ll have to firstly scrape off the wallpaper in order to assist the plaster get to be firmly secured to the wall behind.

When you plaster over a wallpaper, this will make the wallpaper wet and it’ll absorb the moisture. And once the plaster does not have moisture, the only result is for it to crack and start to crumble. Hence, plaster and wallpaper is never a good combination.

Asides from cracking and crumbling, anther issue is that the wallpaper will bubble. You can actually key the wallpaper with the help of a knife and it might look secured for some time, however it’ll eventually crumble and you’d have to scrape off the plaster complete to start all over again. The wallpaper will bubble as the plaster can’t be keyed into a wallpaper and the wallpaper will only work as a barrier between the plaster and the wall.

Overall, plaster always needs to slowly dry off as well as a good and proper surface to grip to. No matter the amount of PVA mix you spread on the wallpaper, it will always remain a barrier. So you’d have to remove the wallpaper completely to get a great result.