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If you happen to live in a quiet, serene environment ( or just cherish being in one) and wish to have an air source heat pump installed on your property, then you’d probably want to know just how noisy these renewable energy source are. In this post, we aim to provide answers to this question and more. Let’s take a look!

There is no short and direct answer to this question as air source heat pumps are available in varying shapes and sizes which makes the sound as well as volume of their noise different between models and manufacturers. However, as a result of government regulations, most of the contemporary air source heat pumps are able to function a lot quieter when compared to the older models. As you would have expected, modern air source heat pumps shouldn’t produce more than a low whirring sound provided they’re functioning as they should with no faults. On the other hand, the volume of the sound generated is largely dependent on the amount of work the air source heat pump is doing. This implies that a greater work load will generate a louder noise. This is due to the fan’s speed which works to absorb warm air into the compressor.

In order not to disturb the neighbours, noise pollution is normally determined at the design stage of the air source heat pump installation. The unit to be placed outdoor will typically be positioned as far from the neighbours property as possible and it’s also a great idea not to put the box directly under any windows. Overall, it’s always advisable to go for the newer models which tend to be better designed with thicker chassis and quieter fans.

If you look after your air source heat pump, it can last for over 20 years. Make sure you check it every year and get a registered or qualified installer to check it every 3-5 years to prolong its life. If in doubt, check the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions.

The bath waste is primarily responsible for the safe drainage of the bath once the plug is removed. Generally, it’s connected to the overflow which enables excess water to go away if the plug is in and the bath is overfilled. There are times whereby the bath waste can corrode and start to leak, so when this happens its important to replace the components so as to make sure that there’s no excessive water damage as well as other complications. This is a task any DIYer, regardless of the experience level can achieve, however if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we aim to take you through the bath waste fitting process to ensure you do it the right way. Let’s take a look!

• Remove the old bath waste. Do this by unscrewing the screw probably located at the centre of the waste cover. Then pull the outer cover away from the bath. Locate a larger washer underneath and lift it out, the clean the hole of any old sealant to make a smooth entry for the new waste.
• Disconnect the connector and pipe. Locate the plastic pipe that runs from the bottom of the bath to the overflow rose high up at the bath’s end. You’ll observe a connector at each end of the pipe, remove the pipe from the connectors and unscrew both connectors.
• Connect new fittings to new pipe. Take the new plastic waste and connect it to one end of the new plastic pipe and repeat the same process at the other end with the plastic overflow.
• Connect to the bath. Push or screw the waste up into the hole underneath the bath and connect into the trap pipe underneath. Push the new overflow into the bath’s back and on the front then screw I the rose or the cover of the new overflow.

As well as keeping your home warmer and reducing noise, you’ll notice a saving on your energy bills from installing double glazing. If you install A++ rated windows in your home after having single glazing, you could save up to £120 year on your energy bills. The Energy Saving Trust has more information.

If you’re planning to construct a kitchen diner extension, to help you set a budget and start planning you must first have a cost estimate that’ll complete the entire project. If not, there’s a probability that you may have to spend more than would have been necessary or probably break the bank to have the project done. In truth, there’s no single and short answer to this question as the cost of a kitchen diner is largely dependent of several variables. In this article, we’re going to give a good insight into kitchen diner extension cost so as to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

On the average, a kitchen diner extension will cost within the range of £25,000 to about £45,000, however if you happen to reside in London, you can expect the cost to be a lot more than that - closer to £60,000. And due to the fact that there happens to be a plethora of options out there, any decision to make be it on the size, tradesman, flooring, finishes or type of the kitchen diner extension, will have a considerable impact on the overall cost of the project. For instance, a basic kitchen diner extension cost can be within the range of £12,000 to about £15,000., while a high end kitchen diner extension can reach a whooping price between £80,000 to about £100,000.

The total cost of your kitchen diner project will rely heavily of the size as well as the quality of the finishes. For example, a kitchen diner extension that’s small and basic is likely to cost about £1,300 to £1,500 per square metre. However, if you’re going for higher quality finishes, you can expect to pay within the range of £1,900 to about £3,000 per square metre.

Damp issues on a property are usually generated by a lot of factors such as a poor or broken guttering, condensation and lots more. The question arising here is what is the possibility of External Wall Insulation (EWI) preventing condensation? Not only is EWI a reliable way to reduce condensation-caused damp, but it’s also one of the major reasons property owners in solid wall homes consider thermally rendering or cladding their external walls.

Condensation arises as a result of warm moist internal air hitting a cold surface such as the steaming up of both windows and mirror when having a shower. What happens here is the condensation of the water vapour in the air from a gas to liquid in the process of touching the cold surface - one whose temperature is significantly reduced to reach the dew point. At the dew point, condensation is very rampant, and to tackle this issue you’ll have to heighten the wall temperature in order to convert the moisture to vapour and permit it to pass through the wall. And that’s exactly the job of an external wall insulation!

To get started you must ensure that the walls are clean and dry prior to fitting the external wall insulation. The month of May through to September when the weather tends to be dry and more stable are usually the best period to carry out the project. The external wall insulation will function just like a cosy blanket around the building. Ultimately, changing the feel and temperature of the inside of your home. As a result, the previously cold walls will no longer be cold which goes a long way to mitigate the effects of condensation. Furthermore, when an EWI is installed, the rooms of your home will automatically trap more thermal mass as the heat is saved in the walls’ fabric and released back when the temperature drops.

Patios are suitable for many gardens. If you do not have a flat area already, consider having some landscaping work done to create one. If your garden is on a very extreme slope, you could have a multi-layered (terraced) patio with steps between each layer. Ask for advice and get quotes if you're not sure.

Though it's hard to maintain woodworm out totally, you can certainly make your home less enticing by:

Keeping all timber completely dry - The wetter wood ends up being, the less complicated it will be for larvae to bore with as well as stay in. Women timber beetles wish to give their offspring the best opportunity of survival so will certainly pick a wooden surface with this in mind.

Keeping your residence warmed and well ventilated - Home heating your house to an appropriate temperature while keeping it ventilated will minimize the possibility of moisture accumulation as well as saturation of wood.

Getting furniture made from good quality hardwood - Hardwood is understood for being most resistant to woodworm invasion due to its thickness and lack of nutrients for woodworm larvae to live off.

Sealing timber with varnish - Varnish makes it harder for wood uninteresting pests to pass through a wood surface area. It is also toxic. Attempt to re-varnish or seal any surfaces that have actually deteriorated in time.

Very carefully looking for indications of woodworm when purchasing antique or used furnishings - Always inspect that you are not bringing anything infested right into your house, checking for the tell-tale indicators defined over.

Eliminating contaminated wood from your house - If you learn that a piece of lumber is infested, remove it simultaneously preferably.

Changing infected timbers - Once contaminated hardwood has actually been removed, make certain to replace it with brand-new lumber that is appropriately prepared with a protective surface and also dealt with.

Deal with the wood with a woodworm treatment - take the aggressive action to avoid problem as well as deal with hardwood with a woodworm awesome.

Using flytraps - Flytraps can be made use of in a preventative technique to catch and also consist of adult timber uninteresting beetles prior to they have a possibility to mate.