Waste | Skip Hire
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Stephen R
Start Date: Immediate
8 ton skip hire garden clearance
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Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Stephen R
Start Date: Immediate
8 ton skip hire garden clearance
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Aneta B
Start Date: Immediate
Call any time. New build or replacement: New build Brickwork present: No Style of conservatory: Unsure Quote requested on a conservatory, in PVCu, to be supplied and fitted.
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: AMANDA L
Start Date: Immediate
Mattress Table and chairs Bags of rubbish
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Rach W
Start Date: Immediate
Repairs on original and or replacement conservatory mOVE
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: John B
Start Date: Immediate
Wood flooring general waste
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Karolina M
Start Date: Immediate
take away packed bags of asbestos
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Colin E
Start Date: Immediate
10 Concrete Posts and 3 concrete base panels between each post. All materials onsite
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Sophie B
Start Date: Immediate
I would just like a skip placed in my garden so I can get rid of the old stuff from the garden my sons plastic toys, wooden toys ect..
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Anand S
Start Date: Immediate
Landscape, rocks and mud
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Fiona E
Start Date: Immediate
Driveway to be levelled out and new tarmac laid. Open to suggestions for type of material used. Is a large area and would need some work doing to to demolish a raised area with soil.
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Chris J
Start Date: Immediate
3 yard skip for shed clear out
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Sandra A
Start Date: Immediate
Garden waste also bricks and wood also a chair
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Aneta B
Start Date: Immediate
Customer made an enquiry for a uPVC conservatory via one of our websites. Looking at various options Confirmed interest Supply and install Please call to discuss options and arrange appointment to quo...
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Jared A
Start Date: Immediate
looking for a 6 yard skip for 24 hours for soil garden waste.
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Derek J
Start Date: Immediate
we need three ridge tiles replaced on my garage roof due to the recent storms. the tiles are of the half pipe type and are the type used on redrow houses in the 1990's are you the property owner: own...
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: MISTY L
Start Date: Immediate
Got an allyway with mattress a d single bed and loads of wood some plastic old broken toys ect then a shed with an old tree that's been broken down
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Bradey H
Start Date: Immediate
Loft insulation, semi detached house, 3.2m x 10m
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Penny K
Start Date: Immediate
PAT testing of washing machine, boiler, cooker, hob, oven, shower and electric fire
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: Avril B
Start Date: Immediate
We require a quote for the gutters to be cleared on two bedroomed bungalow.
Deeside - CH5
Enquiry from: LIZ D
Start Date: Immediate
REPAIR *** LEVEL ROOF ON AN EXTENSION. NOT THE ROOF AT TOP OF HOUSE
How much do Shop Fitters in Deeside cost?
Costs for Shop Fitters around Deeside can differ depending upon the sort of service that you require to have actually done in your residence. It's the question we are asked a lot "how much do Shop Fitters in Deeside charge?". It's always better to have an idea of how much a Shop Fitter will likely charge for their work. Rates will probably vary based on the products as well as the tradesperson picked. The list shows the kinds of job that Shop Fitters typically do and also the typical cost variety of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so costs do vary by job.
Tasks that Shop Fitters in Deeside can do:
Unlike the photovoltaic (PV) power which works to turn a part of the electromagnetic radiation of the sun directly to electrons and electricity, a solar thermal can simply be referred to as the absorption of the sun’s heat for human use. As a result, the solar thermal has a wider range of uses than the PV does in several ways. This is due to the fact that the sun’s heat can be absorbed and transported via a medium and the stored energy incorporated for several great purposes such as to heat water, to heat and cool a home or living space, to prepare a meal as well as to generate electricity. All these functions are useful for both residential and commercial spaces.
There are generally three different ranges of solar thermal energy that are being used which includes the low temperature ( for heating, cooling as well as ventilation), the mid temperature ( used for preparing meals, heating hot water and the likes) as well as the high temperature ( used for generating electricity). To focus more on generating electricity, there are a wide array of ways through which the sun’s heat can be directed at creating electricity via a heat exchanger which operates to super heat water or inert gas to power an electricity- generating plant or to produce electricity via a Stirling engine.
In order to increase their output or make them more efficient, evacuated glass tubes are used to encircle the tubes which in turn helps them to collect more heat energy while also protecting them from re-radiating the heat energy absorbed. The trough are normal positioned north to south as well as to keep tabs on the travels of the sun throughout the day.
Have you been advised by a structural engineer or a surveyor that your building needs to be underpinned? Well, this might just have you wondering what underpinning really is and how long it lasts. In this post, we’re going to tell you more about underpinning to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!
Basically, underpinning refers to the incorporation of one of various methods to reinforce or repair the old foundations of a building or structure mostly to remedy or avoid subsidence. Now, subsidence can be caused as a result of poor soil quality, increase in the load on the foundation like adding a new storey, excavations below the building as well as inadequate foundation which is more common in older buildings. When an underpinning remedial work is carried out, there are a plethora of benefits that comes with it. It’s preserves the structural integrity of your building by strengthening it, make it a lot more attractive, increases the property’s value and makes it a lot safer for both you and your loved ones. So how long does underpinning last?
Well, many underpinning contractors will offer you a 10-year guarantee of its underpinning solutions for defects. Primarily, there are two reasons why underpinning can fail which is poor installation and fresh issues arising or unforeseen circumstances. While the first is an issue that can be avoided by employing the services of an expert contractor who possesses vast experience and knowledge in the field, the second can not be avoided. However, in the absence of the unforeseen issues, underpinning is expected to last for the natural life of the building, so far it has been expertly installed.
It's not a difficult task to replace an old toilet, as long as you can connect it to an existing branch of the soil pipe. You can cut your water usage significantly by fitting a dual flush toilet mechanism.
Step 1
Follow the manual's guidelines, assemble and insert the flush mechanism. Make sure you include the rubber sealing rings where necessary.
Step 2
Place the large rubber gasket into the flush ingang of the pan.
Step 3
Insert the bolts through the holes in the cistern, using the rubber and large metal washers supplied.
Step 4
Lift the cistern into the pan so the connecting bolts fit through the holes. The threaded section of the flush mechanism should go through the rubber gasket on the flush entrance of the pan.
Step 5
Fit washers to the connecting bolts, and tighten the wing nuts. Make sure you fit these securely - but don't over-tighten them.
Step 6
check if there are no either pipes or cables below the fixing points. Put the toilet in place, and slide the pan outlet into the flexible connector that's attached to the soil pipe. Then drill some pilot holes into the floor at the fixing points. If it's a solid floor, you'll need to make the holes with a hammer-action drill and plug them.
Step 7
Push plastic protective inserts through the holes in the base of the pan, and insert the retaining screws through and into the floor. If the cistern has fixing holes in the back, attach it to the wall by drilling and plugging. Remember to add rubber washers before you tighten the nuts.
Step 8
Connect the supply pipe for the cold water feed, using a push-fit tap connector.
Step 9
Fit the hinge assembly to the seat, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 10
Connect the seat to the pan by securing through the holes at the back, using the screws supplied. Then adjust it to sit in the correct position.
Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.
In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.
Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.
Air source heat pumps can be a really efficient way to generate heat. Although they require electricity to run, they generate much more heat than an electric heater that uses the same amount.
Air source heat pumps provide heat at a lower temperature than most other types of space heating. This means they’re most efficient when they’re left on for longer periods of time, and distribute heat through wet heating systems with large surface areas, like underfloor heating or big radiators.
Air source heat pumps can be much more efficient than oil and LPG boilers, and older electric heating systems. However, they’re only usually the most efficient option if your property is very well insulated.
Replacement of roof tiles that have fractured, cracked or is missing is vital to avoid roof leaks and ceiling damage once rain and wind appear. Countering the problem swiftly by yourself is probable as long as it's only a few tiles. Charges for tile replacement can be expensive and fluctuate conditional on the company you hire.
The steps to replacing a tile are:
Ensure you have the right replacement tile as there are numerous different roof tiles on the market.
The most common types of roof tiles are concrete and terracotta. You must confirm that the tile is identical to your earlier tile or it may not work and can result in impairment even though you've tried to repair it. If you don't know what the tile is, ask the suggestion of a roofing supplier and they should be able to match it for you.
Get onto the roof.
It is only advisable to do this if the safety is guaranteed, using a steady ladder and maybe even using climbing ropes to protect you in case of a fall. If you don't possess a head for altitudes or you're sceptical about how safe it is for you to get on the roof, call in a professional.
Once you have securely gotten to the cracked tile, you'll want to somewhat lift the tiles that overlay the one to be detached. Do this by means of two pieces of timber to hold them up. Lift the broken tile over the baton with a brick trowel and gently slide it down.
Place your new tile on top of the brick trowel and inverse the steps to remove the tile.
Be certain to place the overlying tiles back into place.
Conduct a fast check across the roof to review any other possible damage. It is always advised to keep update on how the roof is holding out to keep an eye out for other tiles that might need replacing.
How To Install Bifold Doors
If you’re looking to install a bifold door in your home or property, then you’re at the right place! In reality some jobs are better left to the professionals and one of such jobs is bifold door installation especially if you lack proper training and experience that’ll guarantee the best result the first time. If otherwise, hiring a professional installer will do you lots of good like saving you time and extra money that could result from costly errors. In this step by step guide, we’ll take you through the bifold doors installation process.
The first step to take when it comes to bifold door installation is to take the measurement of the door opening and get a kit in the appropriate size. For a better accuracy, do note that the combined measurement of both doors should be about an inch less than the opening’s total width while also being two inches less than the door frame’s height.
• Install the top rails in such a way that the rail’s end makes contact with the door frame’s side using the screws.
• Fit the bottom rail in the same fashion as the top ensuring the rail’s end makes contact with the same side of the door frame.
• Insert dowels into the predrilled holes in the door panels’ top.
• Place the dowel with the adjustment screw near the bottom’s side wall. While placing the fixed dowels in the door panel’s top and bottom on the side farthest away from the hinge. Once done, put the dowel and spring assembly into the door panel’s top, closest to the side wall.
• Fit the door panels into rail’s top and bottom while also adjusting the screws to centre the doors.
• Ensure the doors open and close like they should. If positive, tighten all hardware and fit the pulls or knobs of the door.
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