Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Llangollen.

1. Unroll your two pieces of artificial grass, ensuring that the pile is running in the same direction. Fold over each piece by about 300m.
2. To get the perfect seam, cut at least 3 tufts back, ensuring that you don’t trim any grass blades.
3. Either remove the backing on your self-adhesive tape and unroll it down the centre of the join, or roll it out ensuring that the shiny side is down then fix at either end with adhesive.
4. Fold over the grass onto the tape and bring each piece together, ensuring there’s a 2-3mm gap at the seam.
5. Where the pile runs over the edge of the seam, fold over the artificial grass.
6. Apply a small amount of adhesive under the edge of the first section of grass with a mastic gun, then add some to the front edge to stick the second piece.
7. Bring the seam together, ensuring that you don’t get any grass blades stuck. Place a plank with some heavy objects on over the join to ensure that it dries securely.

One of the big benefits of electric boilers is that they do not require annual servicing. There is no legal requirement for a yearly service and safety inspection as there is with gas boilers. Some installation companies do offer servicing packages included as part of the price.

The bigger the ground source heat pump, the better right? Wrong! And you’ll definitely be sorry to make such a huge mistake. When planning to install a heat pump, determining the size of the ground source heat pump is not as direct and straightforward as many homeowners would think. Here, you’ve got only a small margin for error. When the pump is too small, the heat pump will make use of the backup heater too often and in the event whereby the heat pump is too big, it’s going to short cycle. Both situations are preferably avoided as they’ll both leave you with an expensive and inefficient system.

To get the accurate size of a heat pump, there’s usually the need to hire the services of an expert and licensed heat pump installer who possesses a top notch design calculation software. In reality, the majority of inefficient systems are caused by a lack or poor understanding of the suitable design software.

There are many factors that can influence the calculation of a home’s heat pumps size. These includes

✓ Radiators and underfloor heating sizes

✓ Insulation, property fabric as well as heat loss

✓ The number of rooms in the property

✓ The types of rooms and their uses.

✓ The desired indoor temperature for varying rooms

✓ Seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Generally, a bigger house will require a bigger ground source heat pump. With an eye on the age of the property, heat loss as well as the types of the rooms, a house of about 100 square metre can require up to 4kW ground source heat pump. And for a house that’s about 200 square metre, the ground source heat pump also doubles to 8kW.

1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.

How To Clean Moss Off Roof?

Although moss attack on your roof is a less common occurrence, but when they occur they can be very harmful to your asphalt shingles if not attended to. Generally, moss are commonly found in damp environments such as the North slopes, overhanging treses or overhanging regions of the roof which causes shade which enables moisture to be stagnant and moss to develop. If you observe a green fuzzy stuff appearing on your roof, that’s likely to be moss.

The same way algae navigated its way to your roof as they can be airborne and travel via wind, squirrels, birds or other little flying or climbing animals, moss also gets carried similarly. One moss finds its way up your roof, they’ll find spaces between the shingles where they’ll form thick spongy moss which can be difficult to clean off if you don’t know the best way to go about it.

If you’re not a competent DIYer or confident enough to carry out this task, we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results effortlessly.

The best way to go about the cleaning task for both your roof and environment is to incorporate a product called Spray and Forget or Wet and Forget. You can get these at most local hardware stores. Simply put the product into a hose end sprayer and can be applied from the ladder at the edge of the gutter or even from the ground. This method may take a up to 6 months before you’ll start seeing the results but it happens to be the safest. Another method that can be used is bleach and water which is very aggressive but provides a quicker result. However, this is best done by a professional to avoid seriously damaging your roof.

Most cookers have a depth of 60cm. This matches the standard depth of kitchen cabinets. However, you can get cookers and work surfaces that are shallower or deeper.Range cookers usually look best if they match the surfaces next to them. If you want your electric range cooker to do this, make sure you measure your work surfaces before you go looking for a cooker.

The best type of guttering material will vary depending on the requirements of the property. For example, on listed buildings cast iron or aluminium guttering may be required to maintain the character of the property. Generally, UPVC is the accepted standard for almost all modern properties.

Scaffolding, also known as scaffold or staging, is an impermanent construction used to provide sustenance to a work crew and materials to help in the erection, upkeep and mending of structures, bridges and all other man-made constructions. Scaffolds are extensively used on site to get access to altitudes and parts that would be otherwise hard to get to. Hazardous scaffolding has the potential to result in demise or serious accidents. Another major use of scaffolding is in modified methods for formwork and shoring, concert stages, grandstand seating, access/viewing towers, ski ramps and art projects.

There are five main types of scaffolding today. These are Tube and Coupler (fitting) components, manufactured segmental system scaffold apparatuses, H-frame / facade modular system scaffolds, timber scaffolds and bamboo scaffolds.

Each type is made from numerous components which every so often include:

• A base plate or jack: It acts as the scaffold’s load-bearing base.

• The upright component with its connector joins.

• The ledger: The horizontal brace.

• The transom: It is a horizontal load-bearing component which helps to hold the batten or the decking unit.

• The brace diagonal.

• Cross-section bracing component

• The batten or the board decking component: On which the working platform is made.

• The coupler: A fitting which joins components together.

• The scaffold tie: It is used to tie in the scaffold to structures.

• The Brackets: It is used to extend the width of working platforms.

Particular machinery used to support in their usage as a provisional edifice often comprises of heavy-duty weight-bearing transoms, ladders or stairway units for the ingress and egress of the scaffold, beams ladder/unit types used to span obstacles and rubbish chutes used to eliminate undesirable constituents from the scaffold or construction development.

The European Standard, BS EN 12811-1, stipulates performance necessities and procedures of physical and universal design for access and working scaffolds. Requirements specified are for scaffold constructions that depend on the adjacent erections for steadiness.