Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Penrhyn.

The best way to clean resin bound driveways is to sweep it regularly with a stiff broom. This will remove any debris and prevent moss from growing. It's a good idea to jet wash it after sweeping, because this will get rid of any smaller parts that a broom might not collect.

When you jet wash or power wash your resin bound driveway, make sure the pressure isn’t too high. It’s recommended to keep the pressure less than 150bar, as anything too strong could damage the surface. Make sure the water is cool, but not cold – both hot and cold water can damage the resin. Make sure the jet wash nozzle is at least 20cm from the surface. Any closer and this could damage your driveway. Use a sweeping back and forth motion to clean.

If you treat the area before you have your resin bound driveway installed, you shouldn’t get any weed growth. But if you get any moss or algae appear, you can apply a moss and algae killer that should remove and prevent any regrowth. If you have ingrained algae, you can remove it with a strong bleach solution; make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. This should also help restore the driveway’s original colour. Make sure you rinse your driveway thoroughly with clean water after using bleach on it to prevent any harm to wildlife or plants.

If you get chewing gum on your resin bound driveway and you can’t get it off with a pressure washer, try using a freezing spray on it first. Then use a wall scraper to gently remove it – never dig under the chewing gum as this could damage the resin on your driveway.

You must use a builder or scaffolding outworker who is skilled and knowledgeable to put up scaffolding. This means they require to have the essential skills, knowledge and familiarity to be able to accomplish health and safety. A capable scaffolder will hold an effective Construction Industry Record Scheme (CISRS) Card – it is up to your agent to check that this person is capable before any work begins.

When should scaffolding be checked for safety?

According to the law, the user of the scaffolding must check it to ensure that it is safe:

• Before they first use it

• After every seven days after putting it is up

• After any alterations, or damage due to extreme weather conditions

When do you need scaffolding?

It is up to your trader to evaluate the level of hazard and use a suitable apparatus. Repairing or replacing a single tile is never going to be same as installing solar panels that are high up 30 storeys high. Everything is dependent on the type of work and the risks involved. Traders need to guarantee that their staff will remain safe as they work on your property. This means working from the ground if possible. If they need to work at higher altitudes, they must minimise the danger of falling by using present safe roof zones or scaffolding.

You wouldn’t need a license if your builder has to put up scaffolding inside your property premises. However, if the scaffolding has to go out on the pavement or anywhere outside your premises, your builder or scaffolder needs to get a license from the building council.

Insurance

Scaffolders face an inimitable set of hazards due to working at high altitudes. Builders or scaffolding organizations require insurance that covers those risks, together with public liability insurance to cover any damage to the public triggered by falling items from the scaffold as well as employers’ liability insurance to cover their persons if they are wounded while working at height. This is an important thing to check before any other work begins.

How To Replace A Flat Roof

Is it high time you replaced your flat roof with a new one? If it’s time, then you probably shouldn’t waste another minute! Flat roofs come with multiple upsides and happens to be a lot more affordable than many other options (especially for starters). Not only do they add to your home’s curb appeal and requires a relatively low labour costs as there are minimal risks involved, but they’re also more accessible for maintenance purposes and aren’t as exposed to damage as a pitched roof. However, we’re not here to discuss the various benefits of installing a flat roof, but rather tell you how to install one. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a trustworthy professional that can guarantee the best results.

• Wipe the entire roof system clean.

• Detach and replace rotted roof sheathings.

• Detach and replace rotted fascia

• Hire a qualified air conditioning professional to disconnect the existing AC units.

• Introduce new aluminium air conditioning stands and secure against the deck.

• Let you qualified air conditioning professional reconnect the existing AC units.

• Put in place the new air conditioning quick disconnects.

• Attach EPS fanfold insulation in such a way to cover the surface of the entire roof and secure it firmly in place.

• Attach the tie-in roof materials where necessary.

• Attach roofing membrane to cover the entire area of the roofing.

• Attach membrane to the entire roof’s perimeter.

• Attach new perimeter flashings (fascia bar, fascia cap and drip edge), secured on the centre at 6. Make use of a good sealant to secure the fascia bar or fascia cap’s top flange.

• Attach boots on plumbing seal and stacks.

• Identify the existing vent stacks and seal, and put curbs

• Put safety walk pad network from the access point of the roof to the air conditioning units.

• Attach rooftop signs for roof traffic personnel

• Tidy up and clear out the debris

Clean of your conservatory gutter is probably not one of the most enjoyable chores you’d like to take on around the house. Not only is it messy and tedious, but it’s also time consuming and smelly. It’s a job every home and property owner would rather avoid, but unfortunately everyone has to do it. It’s a necessity due to the fact that neglect gutters holds and harbours mould, moss as well as plant debris. It would have been better if this is only disgusting, but the actual truth is that should be the least of your worries as this gradual build up of organic material in your conservatory gutters can minimize their drainage abilities, leading to leakages and spills that can damage your conservatory.

Cleaning of your conservatory gutter is a task that can be done regardless of your level of experience. However, it’s advisable to call in a professional for help especially if you lack the confidence required to pull it off.

• Use a ladder for a closer look. Cleaning your gutters from the ground by poking it with a hooked tool might seem the best way out, but in truth you risk damaging the gutters or brackets and marking the conservatory panes when you don’t see what you’re doing.
• Invest in specialist tools. For expert DIYers, taking off your downpipes from the wall to clean might be a pretty easy task. However, for most people it can be extremely frustrating. As a result, there’s the need to get hold of some flexible gutter brushes. With a bendable stem and stiff bristles, these are able to hook and dislodge dirt and leaves inside your downpipes with relative ease.

This is an individual who is trained in the art of working with concrete blocks or bricks, clay bricks as well as other kinds of mortar building materials. In a combination of these materials and good bricklaying skills, a bricklayer can build and repair veneer as well as full brick construction, arches, partitions and other structures.

Contrary to many beliefs, a bricklayer actually does more than laying of bricks. There’s more to being a bricklayer than you can probably think of. A single bricklaying projects requires a wide array of skills. Let’s have a look at these skills!

• Using damp resistant materials to seal foundations.

• Spreading mortar between joints and applying them to serve as a thick layer binding the bricks together in rows.

• Reading and working from specifications as well as plans.

• Working with brick-cutting machines.

• Taking charge and caring for cement blocks or bricks, clay bricks and the likes.

• Construction of scaffolding - subject to possession of some licenses in some states.

A bricklayer mostly works outdoors, in the field and may also work at heights. Depending on the job, a bricklayer can work as part of a team or be in contact with the public. They are mostly recruited by building and construction companies and bricklaying sub contractors. However, they can also set up their own private construction firm or become a self employed tradesperson.

A bricklaying qualification is one of just two construction trades which can continue to become a registered builder. And regardless of the form a bricklaying employment takes, there are certain qualities that makes a really good bricklayer. These includes:

• Ability to work at heights and outdoors

• Enjoy practical work

• Technical aptitude

• Good hand-eye coordination

• Independent and yet a team player too

• Top physical fitness

• Attitude and attendance.

Can You Use Floor Tiles On Walls?

Some floor tiles are so lovely you just can’t help but wonder if its safe to be used on the walls as well. If you’re also thinking along the same line, you’re not alone! Several other home and property owners are busy finding answers to this particular question. Now let’s look at the possibilities.

Generally, any tile designed as a floor tile by the tile manufacturer can also be laid on the wall (vertical surfaces) as well as countertops. Due to the fact that the floors are usually subjected to greater use than the walls in terms of foot traffic, the durability required is also considerably greater. Therefore, a floor tile with Abrasion Resistance values ranging from I - V is suitable for wall installation. However, you should take note that exterior wall applications must be different from its interior counterparts and must only be incorporated on tiles that are frost resistant.

There are two other factors that must be taken into consideration before you install a floor tile on your walls which includes the weight of your tiles per m2 as well as the strength of the surface in which the tile is to be installed. If you don’t want your tiles falling off, the combined weight of the tiles with the adhesive and grout should not be more than the maximum weight required per m2 (20kg to 35kg depending on the wall substrates).

Now that you have an idea of the possibilities of installing floor tiles on walls, it must, however, be said that reverse is the case when it comes to installing walls tiles on the floor. Wall tiles are, generally, not suitable to be laid on the floor as they are mostly non-vitreous ( can not withstand excessive impact, abrasion or thaw cycling).

Traffic doors are doors which open like an ordinary door. They are contained within the bifold door configuration. It’s recommended to fit a traffic door if you intend on using your bifold door as the main access point to your garden. If you are considering an installation, ask the installer about the benefits.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar