Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in St Austell.

No. You must never repair your own boiler – only a Gas Safe-registered engineer can do any work on your boiler. You can do simple DIY tasks to repressurise your boiler or stop a leak, but if you have to remove the outer casing of the boiler or touch the flue then you must get a qualified boiler engineer to take a look at your central heating system.

If you’ve converted a non-residential barn into a home, you might be able to reclaim some of the VAT that you’ve paid for your project. This includes money spent on:

• Construction materials

• Flooring

• Light fittings

• Kitchen units and worktops

• Electrical, heating and plumbing materials

To reclaim your VAT from HMRC, make sure you request and keep all of your invoices. You’ll also need proof of planning permission and evidence of completion. You should then submit your claim with all relevant paperwork within three months of receiving your completion certificate. You’re only allowed to submit one claim, so you’ll need to make sure you get it right first time.

One of the major source of concern for several home and property owners in London when it comes to heating and cooling systems is whether its really necessary to use an air conditioning system throughout the year or just a couple of months a year. Well, if you’re also worried about the this, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to consider why making use of an air conditioning system is essential all-year round. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is, it depends. However, if you really want to have a total control over your own comfort at home, then the answer is yes. In fact, most individuals who have installed heating and cooling systems with the intention of only using it in July and August usually find themselves making use of it all through the year and having a more sound sleep than ever before. What’s more? London is known to have uncomfortable and inconsistent temperatures all year long. If you intend to use your system for a specified couple of months, you may just be shocked to discover when you’ll need it the most may be outside your selected usage period.

In a move to protect older properties or an apartment complex, most landlords in London usually won’t give permission to enable structural changes. As a result, this has given several Londoners the impression that they’ll have to just cope with the heat and cold all throughout the year. In this kind of situation, all that’s needed is the installation of internal air conditioning units which does not need any penetration through the exterior wall to be fitted.

1. Prepare the base If you want your resin bound driveway to last a long time, you need to ensure that you prepare the base properly. Remove any block paving, grass or soil and dig down until you hit solid ground. Lay a sub-base of asphalt for good permeability. If you’re laying over the top of your current driveway, make sure that all cracks are increased into a ‘v’ shape with a saw and ensure the surface is dry and weed-free.
2. Mix the resin You must follow the instructions on the materials you have to the letter if you want the curing process to work. Usually batches come in ‘Part A’ and ‘Part B’. Keep the resin container secure and on a protective surface to avoid splashing, then mix Part A for 10-20 seconds at a slow speed with a helical bladed mixer. Add Part B and mix thoroughly at a slow speed for about 2 minutes until it’s blended together.
3. Mix the dried aggregates and sand with the resin Place a quarter of the aggregates into a mixer, then add the pre-mixed resin and start a stopwatch. You should then add the rest of the aggregates before slowly adding the sand. When you’re happy with that mix, stop the stopwatch. That time is the time that you need to spend mixing any other resin and aggregates to avoid colour variation.
4. Lay the mix on the surface Transfer the mix to the work area then plan a laying route. When the mix is laid out, use a very clean trowel to spread the mix. Clean it regularly during the process to avoid dragging aggregates out of place. Once the aggregates stop moving in a fluid movement and become solid, stop trowelling. Then you can polish the surface to give it an attractive shine.

There are a huge range of worktops on the market. In terms of material, worktops can be laminate, wood, natural stone (granite etc.) or metal. Worktops are available in a massive variety of styles and colours, to suit any style of interior decoration.

If you’re looking to plaster your ceiling, one of the most essential parts of the process is cutting the plasterboard. Once you’re able to master this skill, the rest of the plastering is quite easy. This is a task that can be done by any competent DIYer but with a little bit of patience and confidence. If you lack any of these attributes, we’d strongly recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the plasterboard ceiling cutting process. Let’s take a look!

To cut plasterboard ceiling, you don’t need any expensive tool which is usually not the case when it comes to carpentry. If you won’t be cutting a lot of plasterboard, all you really need would be just an old handsaw or plasterboard one, a Stanley knife as well as a straight edge. However, if you’ll be cutting lots of plasterboards, you’ll require the following to make your task a lot easier:

✓ An old handsaw

✓ A Stanley knife and many spare blades

✓ A straight edge like a long spirit level

✓ A surform

✓ A battery drill and oh2 screwdriver bits, with specific plasterboard screws.

To cut plasterboard to length, you’ll have to first score a line on the face side of the board with a straight edge and Stanley knife. Once done, simply lift the sheet off the ground and snap it along the score line. Then, you can run your knife down the other side of the board , cutting the back of the plasterboard backing sheet. Upon completion, your plasterboard is now ready to be fitted on your ceiling.

Soffits and fascias sit along the sides of your property, over the join between your walls and your roof. The fascia attaches to the end of your roof rafters, hiding and protecting them. The soffit fixes on the bottom of the fascia, bridging the gap between your fascia and wall. Your guttering attaches to the fascia, which also joins to the bargeboard on your gable end, if you have one.

There are a range of locks that are available for doors. Look for ones accredited by Secured by Design and British Standards. The quality of the installation will also affect the security of the door. Additional security measures such as a double lock, security bolts and chains can support this.