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Most Sun Tunnel Kits are available in sizes from 250mm Diameter to 550mm Diameter. This gives you a good range to choose from depending on the size of the room you are trying to brighten.

• 250mm Sun Tube – Perfect for room sizes up to 10m2. (Hallways, Small Bathrooms)
• 350 – 450mm Sun Tubes – Perfect for rooms 10 to 15m2. Larger Hallways, Stairwells and Bathrooms.
• 550mm Sun Tube – Ideal for rooms 15 – 22m2. Kitchens, Bedrooms, Living Rooms.

Whether you’re going to hire a professional to create your concrete driveway or are trying DIY, it’s a good idea to know how to create one.

Firstly, make sure you’ve thought carefully about the size and location of your driveway, and mark it out with pegs and string. Then, you’ll need to dig out the area. Ideally this should be about 20cm deep – 10cm for the subbase and 10cm for the concrete layer. Make sure this is level and compress both the soil and the subbase with a compactor if needed.

Then, you’ll need to assemble the formwork for your driveway. These are pegged out planks of wood or metal that support the edges of your driveway while it’s setting. If your driveway is more than 4 metres long, you’ll also need to create control joints to allow the concrete to settle without cracking.

Once you’ve done this, you’re ready to pour on the concrete. You’ll need to level it and ideally give it some texture so the surface has some grip. Cover your concrete driveway with plastic sheeting when you’re happy with the finish and leave it to set. Make sure you don’t walk or drive on it until it’s completely set – this usually takes 3-10 days. Then, you can remove the framework and enjoy your new driveway.

If you’re worried about your conservatory being too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter, you can insulate it. Older conservatory roofs are made from inefficient polycarbonate, which means that up to 25% of all the heat lost in a conservatory escapes from the roof.

To insulate your conservatory roof, you can install blinds or curtains – but they can go mouldy from condensation. There are two other options that are more long-term that could be better: upgrading the polycarbonate in the roof or opting for a solid conservatory roof.

You can add a thicker polycarbonate roof panel with better thermal efficiency if the glazing bars on your conservatory will expand to fit. This will offer better insulation, but may not last very long – maybe less than 10 years.

A solid conservatory roof is a new way of making your conservatory usable all year round. Most existing conservatory frames will be able to support a lightweight metal structure and slate-like tiles to match your home’s roof. Or you can opt for a hybrid option where the solid and glass parts are merged together. This will insulate your conservatory roof so it never gets too hot or too cold.

Aeration, like scarification, is another vital step to keeping your lawn looking healthy and vibrant. It involves making small holes in the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to get into the grass roots, helping them to grow deeply, and produce a much stronger lawn. It also helps to relieve compaction from the soil, which stops nutrients and air from circulating. But how do you aerate your lawn?

Before you start to aerate your lawn, it’s a good idea to scarify it first to get rid of any moss, dead grass and thatch. This involves vigorously raking your lawn to get all the organic matter up, then transferring it to your compost heap or disposing of it. Light scarification is best in the spring but you can heavily scarify it in the autumn.

If you’ve got a small lawn, you can use a hand-held hollow tine aerator or even a normal garden fork. Dig deep into your lawn’s surface with the fork, or push the aerator into the ground which will pull plugs, or cores, of soil out of the ground to create air holes. You can let the cores dry and then go over them with a lawn mower or rake to spread them evenly across your lawn. This will recycle all the nutrients in those parts of the soil and stimulate bacterial activity to break down unwanted thatch. Don’t leave them, because they will make your lawn look bumpy over time.

If you’ve got a larger lawn, you might find it easier to see if you can hire a petrol aerator. But there are also rolling aerators that have spikes on a cylinder and you just push along, or even aerator sandals that you can wear and just go to town on your grass!

How To Take Tiles Off A Wall

The bonding agent or adhesive usually incorporated to hold a tile against the wall are always very strong or else you’ll find your tiles peeling off. As a result, to have them removed is not the easiest of tasks and bashing them with a hammer, will only have them broken leaving you with the task of having to scrape off the pieces. A better and much easier approach to removing tiles from a wall will be to pry them off one after the other. So how do you go about this? Let’s have a look!

lSafety First, Then Remove The First Tile

• Wear a protective eye goggle and gloves.

• Break up the grout around a tile located atthe wall’s centre using a putty knife and hammer.

• Place the putty knife under the the tile and gently it with the hammer.

lRemove The Remaining Tiles

• By tapping and prying using the tools - hammer and putty knife, wipe off all the tiles in the vertical row.

• Once done, continue to detaching the tiles in the adjacent rows until you’re able to open a wallboard section that’s around 12 inches wide and does not obstruct a stud.

• Use a keyhole blade to poke it through the wallboard.

• With the help of a reciprocating saw, cut out the wallboard’s section.

lCut The Fasteners

• Using a metal-cutting blade, cut te wallboard-holding fasteners. Make sure the fasteners holding the wallboard to the top and bottom plates of the wall are both detached.

lRemove All Wallboard Sections

• Using a similar approach, gently remove the other sections of the wallboard.

• Once completed, you can easily sweep the tiles’ broken pieces.

• Finally, vaccum the grout dust to ensure the work is neatly done.

If you lack a proper training or experience, taking off your tiles from a wall is best left to a skilled professional for the best results and to prevent potential damages which can lead to additional costs.

What Is The Difference Between A Conservatory And An Orangery?

If you’re looking to build an extension for your home, one of the first things that comes to mind is the type of structure that would best suit your property. When it comes to glass extensions there are two major varieties which includes the traditional conservatory and the orangery, but there are usually a lot of confusion over the differences of these two varieties. With the growth in popularity of glazed extensions, the differences between the two structures are becoming more and more thin. However, the main difference between a conservatory and an orangery is the number of glass incorporated. Conservatories are fully glazed structures featuring a low brick base wall, meanwhile orangeries are grand brick structures with with glazed roofs. But as a result of innovations of over the years in glazing, the difference has changed a bit.

Here are some of the major differences between a conservatory and an orangery.

✓ Orangeries are generally best suited to traditional-styled homes or with older property making use of matching stone or brick in construction. Meanwhile for a more recent or modern property, a conservatory will be the better option to add the flair to your property.

✓ Conservatories tend to be larger than orangeries, therefore if you want a smaller extension, an orangery would be your best bet.

✓ Orangeries are typically rectangular in shape and is traditionally a more regular building meanwhile a conservatory can be shaped to suit your needs. With an conservatory, you can get a T-shaped, L-shaped, curved, double ended and lean-to extensions to suit your preference.

✓ An orangery usually possess a flat roof at the edges with a glazed lantern section right at the centre. You can also find more luxurious orangeries having two or more lantern sections. However, when it comes to the roofing, conservatories generally have more options. Some are gabled or pitched, others are lean-to with a plethora of choice to finish off the roof.

Keeping water away from your house is of great importance and hence, the installation of a roof guttering system to serve this purpose. However, in order to perform this task effectively and seamlessly, there’s a need to clear out the clogging dirt and debris from the gutter and ensure it’s free from water-blocking obstacles at all times. Although there are a number of ways to achieve this, but the major cause of concern for several home and property owners is having to work at heights or on top of a ladder to get the job done. This is a very dangerous endeavour especially if you do not have the confidence required to pull it off. As a result, we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who possess the skills when it comes to working at heights and delivering a highly effective clean. Fortunately, there are a couple of ways you can get to clean your gutters without having to climb any ladders. Let’s take a look!

• Clean the gutter with a leaf blower. Several leaf blowers feature a nozzle attachment which is made to release a narrow stream of air which is suitable for cleaning of gutters. You don’t need a ladder to do the clean as a specialized attachment is available in order to increase the blower’s reach to your roof effortlessly. The final step would be to remove any lingering leaves or twigs using a hose.
• Clean the gutter with a wet or dry vacuum. For heavier debris, you can try out a wet or dry vacuum. To reach the obstructed gutters while standing on the ground, simply get curved attachments and hoses at a local home improvement store. You may, however, need to moisten some stubborn dirt before it can be properly vacuumed or removed.after completing the vacuuming process, simply flush the gutters with garden hose waters.