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If you want to test your solar panel system to see if it’s working properly or just to see what output it’s giving, you can do this using a multimeter to measure current, or amps, and voltage.

Before you start, you’ll need to find the voltage (v) and current (A) ratings of your panel. You should be able to find them on the back of the panel. You should also make sure that it’s a nice clear, sunny day to get the best readings out of your panel. You should also check that it’s safe to be up on your roof!

To measure open circuit voltage, you’ll need to make sure that your solar panel is completely disconnected from your system’s regulator and battery (if you have one). Angle the panel towards the sun, and ensure that your multimeter is set to measure volts. Measure the voltage between the positive and negative terminals by connecting the negative contact on the voltmeter to the negative on the panel and the positive contact on the voltmeter to the positive on the panel.

Then, you can move on to the short circuit current. Follow the same steps as the open circuit voltage, but ensure that your multimeter is set at 10A to start with.

Only try to test your solar panel if it’s safe to do so. If your roof isn’t accessible without scaffolding or specialist equipment, consider speaking to an MCS-registered solar company about your concerns. They may recommend that they come to service your solar panel system.

In some situations, it is possible to remove asbestos from your home without holding a licence. However, unless you’ve had training on working with asbestos, it’s not a good idea to do the work yourself. In these cases, you’ll need to make sure you wear complete protective clothing, including a face mask and overalls, and disturb the material as little as possible. You’ll also need to find out the best place to dispose of your asbestos here [https://www.gov.uk/asbestos-in-home], and get rid of your protective clothing in the same place.

However, in many cases you’ll need a licence to do an asbestos removal job, so will need to call in a professional. This is also almost always the safest way to remove your asbestos too, so is generally the best option to go for.

How To Draw A Garden Landscaping Plan

Are you thinking about constructing a new garden landscape? Do you have an existing one but forgot where you planted those tulip bulbs the previous autumn? Or perhaps you’re just trying to identify the exact spot where you cut back that clump of wilted foxglove, without mistakenly digging it up. For everything to be much easier when it comes to a garden landscape, it’s always a wise decision to draw a garden landscaping plan.

To get started, let’s take a look at the materials you’ll need to acquire. These includes a piece of white paper on which the existing elements on your garden will be plotted, a piece of tracing paper and tape to give options for planned additions, a pencil, an eraser as well as a measuring tape.

For more accuracy while drawing your plan, you’ll need to measure the garden’s distances, perimeter, the existing garden beds size as well as the trees’ and shrubs’ shape and size.

• Write down the measurements taken on the scrap paper.

• Assuming it’s a medium sized backyard garden that’s 18 feet wide, we allocated a scale of 3 feet to equal an inch.

• Using a piece of white paper (could be graph if you wish) and a pencil, carefully outline the perimeter of the space. Once done, you can then sketch in the existing plants as well as other special features on the space (features that are of a permanent nature like trees, fences and paths).

• Hold a piece of tracing paper and tape in on top. Then you can sketch out the plants you wish to add to fill in the spaces in the garden on the tracing paper.

• The rules only apply to houses – flats and maisonettes are not included
• Only 50% of the area of land around the original house can be covered by extensions, including conservatories, and other buildings
• You mustn’t build the conservatory higher than the highest part of the original roof
• Where the wooden conservatory comes within 2 metres of the boundary, the height at the eaves can’t exceed 3 metres
• A rear wooden conservatory can’t extend beyond the rear wall of the original house by more than 4 metres if it’s a detached house, or more than 3 metres for any other type of house
• For side extensions, for example a lean-to wooden conservatory, it can’t exceed 4 metres in height and can only be up to half the width of the original house

The Hive thermostat stand is relatively easy to install, however if you lack the necessary training or experience, this is a task you might want to leave to a professional to guarantee the best result while also saving you money and time. This guide will give you a good insight into the Hive thermostat installation process.

The installation of a Hive thermostat does require it to be connected to your home boiler. For this reason we always recommend you get a professional to install it. However once install the Hive Smart Thermostat is very easy to operate and move the controller around your home. To get started, you can follow these steps:

• Press the lever at the lower side of the thermostat and pull away from the front to detach the back plate of your device.

• Once done, simply hang the thermostat on the stand back plate and ensure it holds firmly in place

When it comes to Hive thermostat installation, you might also want to consider the positioning of the device in such a way to heat your home even more efficiently as its designed to be very sensitive to temperature. To identify the best spot for your Hive thermostat, let’s take a look at some of the dos and don’ts.

A Few Dos:

• Do maintain the position of your Hive Thermostat to keep a stable connection with the receive and Hive Hub.

• Do ensure that the position chosen is the centre of your home or a frequently used room.

• Do place the thermostat about 1 to 1.5 metres from floor.

• Do ensure that your thermostat is in a close proximity with the hub and receiver for a better functionality.

A Few Don’ts:

• Don’t place your Hive thermostat stand close to radiators, direct sunlight or other heat sources,

• Don’t position your device near or at places that can expoerience a sudden change in temperature such as the front or back door.

• Don’t leave your thermostat too close to curtains or ornaments.

Do Septic Tanks Smell?

The simple and shot answer to this question is yes, septic tanks smell. There are a plethora of very pleasant fragrant smells to enjoy in the United Kingdom, but the smell that oozes out of septic tank systems are certainly not one of them. In fact, if you care for yourself a lot, you should not even try smelling your septic tank at all. However, if you do notice a bad odour wafting from the direction of your tank, it may be that there’s an indication that something is not right. The septic tank system is always with strong malodorous scents, but when you start smelling the odour from the septic tank on your property, then something is wrong and if ignored, may lead to a contamination of your water supply and or other dangerous situations.

✓ When you’re able to perceive the smell of your septic tank from your property, it may imply a full or overflowing septic tank. In this case, you should call in a professional to have your tank pumped. Generally, most tanks are designed to be pumped every 4 years but this is definitely going to vary depending on the size of of the tank as well as your home’s water usage.

✓ Another possible reason for a smelly tank is a covered septic tank vent. This usually happens when a home is renovated or remodelled after the septic tank system has been fitted. You should make sure that the septic tank vents are always uncovered.

✓ If the septic tank starts to get smelly right after showering, then it’s most likely that the septic tank was not installed the way it’s supposed to and may have been fitted without any type of vent.

✓ A smelly tank can also be caused by inappropriate items making their way into a system like cooking grease, oil or fat, paints, solvents, industrial cleaning products, condoms, feminine hygiene products and so on.

One of one of the most unfortunate parts of a woodworm invasion is that the signs of the issue are just visible at the end of the woodworm's lifecycle. This is when the woodworm beetle breaks free from within the wood to proceed its breeding.

Sign 1: Departure Holes in Wood

The signs to watch out for are what we call exit holes. When determining if you have energetic woodworm in your residential or commercial property one extremely aesthetic sign is the holes produced by the woodworm as they leave the wood. The dimension of the holes varies relying on the types of woodworm but generally they are between 2mm and also 5mm. If the woodworm trouble is energetic the holes will have a 'clean' or 'fresh' appearance. They can often just be identified up close, unless there is a huge problem as well as many departure holes with each other. Take a look at our examples below of different kinds of exit holes:

Sign 2: Presence of Bore dust

Another sign that you have an online woodworm invasion in your property is the presence of frass being left by the beetle when it chews its means with the timber. Frass is a dirt developed by woodworm. The frass or woodworm dirt is light in colour and looks virtually like very fine wood shavings. This frass is essentially woodworm waste and also it can be this waste that can aid us identify what kind of woodworm beetle is present. As an example ... the frass created by the wood-boring weevil is 'sticky' to the touch as a result of there being moisture present. The pictures below offer an indicator of what to watch out for:.

Sign 3: Tunnels within the timber brought on by woodworm.

Although this is an apparent sign that you have a woodworm issue it is additionally one of the least noticeable. The tunnels are developed by the woodworm as it makes it method via the wood.

Sign 4: Harmed wood

Damage timber is a clear sign that woodworm are causing damage to your residential or commercial property. Damage can range from weakened floorboards through to crumbling skirting boards. It is very important not to puzzle woodworm damage with the damages triggered by completely dry rot or damp rot. If you are unclear which of these home care problems are creating the damage then it is essential to speak to a hardwood expert to evaluate the lumber to prevent unnecessary treatments that might not be appropriate.

Sign 5: Actual beetles

Dead woodworm beetles might be seen near lumbers that are contaminated. Similarly, throughout the beetle 'flight period' between May and October, you could see real-time beetles as they arise from the woods. Learn more concerning the woodworm lifecycle right here.

If you’re about to start your house extension project and wondering how long it’ll take to complete, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions that’s asked by homeowners in the UK and across the globe. However, there’s no single precise answer for this as there are multiple factors that’ll affect the length of time it’ll take to complete your home extension. These factors include the size of the construction work as well as whether you’re planning to live in the house after completion or otherwise.

For a single extension, the length of time it’ll take to complete the home extension is normally up to 3 months. So let’s break this down:

As you would have expected, the first step to be taken is the preparation of the site. You start by digging out the footing and preparing the foundation which should take about 2 weeks. This is then followed by the damp course installation as well as the fitting of any drains needed around the extension which will also take a further 2 weeks.

The 5th week will be for the construction of the external walls as well as putting the blockwork in place for the provision of the cavity wall insulation. A further 2 weeks after this, will be dedicated to the installation of the roof structure and the internal walls.

It’s at this junction that you’ll call on your weather proof installer to fit in your uPVC windows and doors. Once done, the gas fitters and electricians will have to be on site to connect power to your new extension building. Subsequently, this will be followed by internal wall plastering as well as breaking through your main house. Once the plaster is dried, decorations completed and all the required furniture and units installed, the extension is ready for use.