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Is your bathroom sink damaged or old and looking fragile? If yes, then you’re most likely interested in fitting a new one as soon as possible. So how do you go about the installation of a new bathroom sink? This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to bathroom sinks and for a good reason. The fact is, if you’re DIY competent, then this is a task that shouldn’t give you too many hard times. However, if you’re without a proper training or experience, we’d recommend hiring the services of a plumber to guarantee the best results as save yourself some time and additional money which may result from costly errors. In this guide, you’ll learn the steps to bathroom sink installation.

✓ Tap preparation. Apply a small amount of plumber’s mate putty to the base of the taps to be installed.

✓ Install the taps. Identify the taps holes in the sink and squeeze the taps firmly in place, fit the washers and back nuts to the sink’s underside.

✓ Wipe off excess putty. Use a suitable tool to wipe off excess putty that has been pressed out by the tap.

✓ Install the wastage drain. Fit the wastage drain easily into the sink in such a way that the back and front (not side to side) is faced by the two wastage holes.

✓ Tighten the wastage pipe. Squeeze the wastage pipe in, include the washer on the opposite side as well as the nut. Tighten properly with an adjustable spanner and wipe off excess put using a screwdriver or any suitable tool.

✓ Fit the sink to the wall. Put the bolts in position before hanging the sink. Once done, then bolt the sink to the wall and tighten the nut with an adjustable spanner.

✓ Ensure that it’s level with the help of a spirit level.

Are Electric Radiators Expensive To Run?

Just like many home additions, the running costs of electric radiators varies largely on a number of factors. Great number of electric radiators typically comes with an in built thermostat which is designed to turn itself off automatically when not in use in order to save energy.

However the energy provider’s set electricity charge tariff will also have a great influence on an electric radiator’s running cost. Let’s take a look at the running costs of an electric radiator!

A 600 Watt electric radiator ( on a standard electricity tariff) will usually have a running cost ranging between 4 to 6 pence each hour. However you should also take note that this scenario might change in situations whereby the electric radiator is not calling for heat the full 60 minutes of each hour. And this is more likely to be the situation as the thermostat is programmed in such a way that enables it to turn itself off immediately there’s an achievement of your required room temperature level - usually within 10 minutes from the time it was switched on. As a result of this, the running cost per hour of electric radiators will be greatly reduced to just about 1 to 2 pence.

It’s also important to note that enhancing the insulation of your home can go a long way to add to the heat retention value of each room. Consequently, the duration at which the electric radiator calls more heating will be significantly reduced, which in turn, implies a lower electricity bill.

Another key factor that can play a huge role in saving on your heating bills is the programming as well as usage of your electric radiators. Every radiator comes with an independent digital thermostat with a number of 24/7 programming options to help achieve maximum efficiency. When the radiator is properly set according to your lifestyle, you can save as much as 50 percent on your heating bills.

If you’re considering adding a two storey house extension, then setting a budget for this project would be a great way to get started. Similar to a rear extension, a two storey extension usually leaves the rest of the building needing some work and, due to its size, this may imply the re-development of the entire house - which is why they can be very costly. Some of the other influencing factors that can have big impact on a two storey house extension cost includes: your location, the size of the build, complexity of the design ( anything beyond the standard build will normally require more expertise and time), the glazing to be incorporated ( the more the glass used in the project, the more the material cost), as well as the team used.

Generally, when it comes to extensions, the major part of the expenses will be made on the build of the project. This is because it doesn’t only cover the material cost but also the contractor’s overhead as well as the daily rates. At this stage, the extension prices can be determined by the standard of the work that’s being done.

For a fairly average room size of about 18 square metre, the two storey extension should cost within the range of £2,500 to £3,000 per square metre - with the range being determined by the finishes incorporated. Therefore, a two storey extension of about 18 square metre should cost within the range of £45,000 to £55,000. However, this is with the assumption that there are standard window sizes, bathroom suits are modest, and without any need for any purpose joinery or glazing. If you wish to include all these extra features you’ll also have to pay more to make the total cost between £70,000 to £80,000.

Are you about to replace your old windows and wondering just how much it’ll cost to have a new one fitted? If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! The question is a very straight forward one, however a direct answer can not be provided as determining window prices for a replacement project can be a very tricky challenge. With a plethora of influencing factors that can play a key role in the price of both materials and labour to be used, it could be extremely hard for a window installer to provide a cost estimate without paying you a visit beforehand.

The factors that can go a long way in determining the price of your new window includes the size of the window, frame material, style chosen, your location, rates charged by the window installer (these rates can be different from an installer to an installer, so it’ll probably be in your best interest to compare quotes to identify the most competitive price) as well as the type of glass required.

Generally, for a small flat featuring four windows, the average cost for new windows would be between the range of £2,100 to £2,300. This range provided covers the cost of double glazed uPVC casement windows as well as the installation price. In the same tone, a home with up to 8 windows will have an average cost for window replacement between the range of £4,400 to £4,600, wile also taking into account the installation price. Whereas a house comprising 10 windows could begin at an average cost of window replacement between the the range of £5,200 to £5,500, and a 15 window home will be between the range of £8,400 to £8,600. it should be noted that the aforementioned figures only include the standard number of windows with a uPVC frame and the installation cost.

If you wish to work as a quantity surveyor or perhaps you’re just looking to hire one, then one of the first things that comes to mind is the qualifications to look out for. To work as a quantity surveyor, you’ll normally require a degree in quantity surveying or commercial management which is accredited by the RICS (Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors). However, in the event whereby your degree as an undergraduate happens to be in a different subject, there’s still a chance for you to become a qualified quantity surveyor. To achieve this, all you need do is to take a Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors accredited post graduate conversion course. Degrees that this applies to includes the following: Economics, building or construction, geography, civil or structural engineering, mathematics, project management ( construction) as well as urban and land studies.

Typically, the post graduate course will take about a year to complete ( on a full time basis), whereas it takes about 2 years on a part time basis. What’s more? There are some employers that will recruit some graduates as “non-cognates ( meaning those with a non RICS accredited degrees ) and support them financially through the accredited post graduate course. Furthermore, you can as well take a RICS accredited degree apprenticeship whether undergraduate, PGDip or Masters, in quantity surveying as well as project management that combines work with part time study at a university.

However, if you’re without a degree, there’s still an option. Simply start work as a technical surveyor ( also referred to as surveying technician ) and then apply for a part time study while working to qualify as a quantity surveyor.

Planning your bathroom can be a very daunting task especially when you have little to no idea to start from. If you’re facing this challenge, you’re definitely not alone. In this post, we’ll take you through the bathroom planning process to ensure you get it right the first time. Let’s take a look!

1. Assess the bathroom. You can start the planning process by thinking who will be using the space, the number of people that will be using it and the likes as they would have a big bearing on the scheme you’d choose at the end of the day.
2. Take a measurement of the space. The scale of the space must be enough to accommodate your plans, so before you start planning you have to consider if there’s sufficient space.
3. Ask the experts. It’s always a great idea to consult the experts before make any decisions. Simply visit any local bathroom showrooms and online platforms, you should get bathroom designers for reliable details and advice.
4. Choose a layout. Getting a bathroom layout that ticks all the boxes right from the beginning is vital. If you have an existing layout which works well, don’t change it. It’ll be a much cheaper option as moving waste and water pipes can be very costly.
5. Look out for inspiration and be realistic with your space. You can talk to friends that have complete similar projects, check online platforms of bathroom designers and remember that functionality should always be above aesthetic when it comes to bathrooms.
6. Put storage into consideration
7. Factor in the ventilation
8. Put the bathroom lighting in your plan
9. Conclude with a budget
10. Get recommendations from loved ones or trusted individuals about the right tradespeople.

Do You Need A Building Reg For A Conservatory?

If you’re planning to build a conservatory in your home, it’s only logical to consider whether or not you require a building reg for such a structure. Generally, several conservatories, summer buildings, sheds as well as outbuildings do not require building regulation approval to erect. One of the applicable rules is the fact that if they’re ( small or less than 30m2) or constructed with non combustible material, or are differentiated from structures nearby or land and don’t feature sleeping accommodation or room, then they’re not required to submit a building regulations approval application. However, it’s strongly recommended to check with your local authority before you commence the project as only they can provide the most accurate information.

Generally, conservatories should be primarily built of translucent walls and roofs, while also possessing an external type door separating them from the main building within a property. What’s more? The foundations and floors, however, can be laid in a number of ways, but you’ll have to put into consideration the conditions of the ground, trees as well as the existing drains. It’s also a wise decision to include insulation which makes the structure a lot easier to heat especially during the cold months.

Overall, conservatories are usually exempt from building regulations if the following conditions are met:

✓ If the conservatory is erected at ground level and are not up to 30 square metres in floor area.

✓ If the structure is separated from the rest of the house with an external quality walls, windows or doors

✓ If the conservatory features an independent heating system with different temperature as well as on/off controls

✓ If the glazing and electrical installations are in total compliancewith the relevant regulatory requirements.

How To Replace Flat Roof Fascia

Whatever makes you decide to install your flat roof fascia by yourself and not a professional company, then you must have a clear idea of what to do and do it appropriately. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you employ a reliable professional to help with the task for the best results and save you some time and money. This step-by-step guide will give a clear insight on how to go about the replacement of your flat roof fascia.

The tools to be incorporated includes the fascia boards, table saw, plane, crimper, clamps, power nailer, compound saw and chalkline.

• Prepare and get all the necessary tools to complete the task before commencing as this would save you time from stopping and going back and forth looking for the next tool needed,

• Install the sheathing and board.

• Fix white fascias with at least 600mm centres ( a foiled fascia needs just 40mm centre) using a marine grade stainless steel plastic headed nails.

• Make a space of up to 10mm between the joints for possible building expansion, using super glue to secure the joints to just a side of the fascia.

• Place this directly on the fascia board’s top (if you’ll be installing ventilation) to create an air pathway.

• Take note that the type of roof to be installed will determine how you’ll have to install the fascia board. For instance, a hip roof permits you to attach the fascia board onto the roof in a quick fashion, whereas a gabled roof may need you to make markings on the board to achieve the right fit.

• Consider the depth of the fascia board as it also play a huge role in the installation of the fascia board. For instance, there’ll be additional weights on tiled roofs that will push up against the board. Therefore, if you do not get the appropriate amount of depth, it could eventually collapse.