Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Beaworthy.

If you’re not an expert floor installer who would take wall tile installation as merely being a vertical floor, you are advised to be very cautious when tackling the project. The installation of wall tiles follow some set of rules which you’d better not break if you really wish to protect your investment. And worst of all, a wall tile done wrong is a lifetime penalty of having to look at it. So how can you get it right? Well, probably by reaching out to a wall tile installation professional for a good quality solution that’ll save you time, money and effort. However, we’ve put together this guide to help give you an insight of how it works and also to help you avoid some unnecessary expenses. Let’s have a look!

1. Hang a batten board
2. Start your rows of tiles or bottom-most course with a batten board which works to prevent spillage of tiles.
3. Position the batten board at 3/4 of the tiles’ height. Ensure not to start at the floor.
4. Form A Pyramid Shape With The Tiles
5. If you’ve reached the bottom row of tile, then arrange the tile in a pyramid shape. To achieve this, you’d have to install the tiles one through four as instructed. Each following row will be draped over the pyramid.
6. Examine The Floor For Level & Walls For Plumb
7. If your floor level or plumb is off by a maximum of a half-inch over the course of 8 feet, add extra baseboards and trim to cover up the problem.
8. The Least Size Of Tiles To Be Used Is Half-Wide
9. Ensure that no “silvers (tiles that are lower than half the width of the tile in question) are incorporated in the project.

If your concrete driveway’s looking grubby, it’s best to try cleaning it with water and a brush, or a mild detergent. However, if this doesn’t work, it can be worth trying bleach.

Dilute your bleach down to 50% bleach and 50% water, and apply it to your driveway. Leave it for 10 minutes, then scrub it using gloves and a stiff brush. Finish by rinsing your driveway off with clean water.

It’s important to remember that bleach can stain certain surfaces and kill plants. So, if you’re concerned about materials and boarders around your driveway, it might be best to use a different type of detergent, like floor cleaner or degreaser.

Most companies will recommend that exterior painting and decorating is carried out in the summer months. However, advances in paint technology mean that some paints can be applied in low temperatures and even when it’s raining. Check the can for the best conditions in which to apply or ask a professionals advise.

This is one of the most common question when it comes to domestic cleaning and reasonably so. Before you embark on a task such as this, it’s always crucial to have an idea of the price range so you can set a budget and start to plan. However, as simple as it may seem, this is actually a very tricky question to answer as the price house cleaners charge per hour is dependent on a number of factors. These factors include location, number of rooms, frequency of cleans, the cleaner’s experience, number of cleaners in the local area, number of bathrooms, agency charges as well as optional extras. Hence, the price house cleaners will charge per hour for delivering their services on your personal space will mostly be tailored to your home’s needs.

In general, the cost you can expect to pay to have your house cleaned typically ranges from £12 to £23 average cost per hour. Prices in more rural areas tend to vary a lot more, which is mostly dictated by the number of businesses that are operating in the area. Therefore, the total cost of your house cleaning project will depend on the number of hours spent on the job plus other optional extras. Furthermore, you should also put into consideration the agency cost per hour ( if you choose to go through this route to source your house cleaners). In general, you can normally expect to pay between £4 to £10 per hour in agency fees in addition to the rate the average cleaner would expect for the area, based on how competitive the market for agencies is in your area.

How To Tile An Uneven Wall

Do you know it’s almost impossible to find a wall in any home that’s fully flat and vertical? Just like floors, walls also have areas of imperfection or where they’re a bit uneven. When it comes to tiling, these are the problematic areas in which you must work around and identify how to solve to achieve a perfect finish. If not, you may as well just have the tiles sticking out and making room for moisture to creep in affecting the longevity of your project.

There a variety of options to tackle an uneven wall surface and one of the best is plastering. To make sure the surface of your wall is even, a great step would be to plaster it. Plastering of a wall can be a very simple task, however, if you lack proper training or experience, you might want to consider getting a skilled professional to handle the project for you. Making sure the surface of your wall is even is a crucial step in the tile installation process and can be quite tricky on your first trial.

Uneven wall is usually as a result of two major factors - sagging of the wall over time and the wall’s surface is not completely flat. To solve this, you’d have to detach the boards. Then, attach a new board and re-skim the walls to create a new flat and even surface you can work on. For small imperfections and dips, simply use an adhesive cement to fill in the gaps in the plaster. This approach is perfect for holes and ding with a depth that’s not more than half a centimetre. When the cement is totally dry, you can sand it to achieve a flat finish. Happy Tiling!

Fitting a shower tray may seem look like a daunting task and well, to some extent, you’re perfectly right if you feel so. This is why shower tray installation is best left to a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results the first time especially if you lack the confidence required to pull off the task. If you wish to make this project a DIY task, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take you through the adjustable shower tray fitting process to ensure you get it right the first time. Let’s take a look!

1. Position the shower tray at the spot where you intend to have it fitting and outline the tray with the help of a pencil. Install the adjustable riser legs, then proceed to adjust them to an even height. Make use of a spirit level to make sure the tray is flat and level, then connect the tray’s waste outlet.
2. Make sure that the riser legs are properly adjusted as this will make for a smooth fall to pass out the waste. Usually, 50mm fall per metre of pipework will be a good guide. Once done, ensure to fit the centre leg.
3. Determine the appropriate route to the waste pipe from the waste trap inside the tray.
4. Put the tray. Make use of a spirit level to ensure the tray is level to eliminate drainage issues and avoid overflow.
5. Examine the riser legs to see that they’re engaged with tightened up lock nuts.
6. Cover the gaps around the shower tray’s surroundings using the side panel.
7. Use a sealant to secure the shower tray between the wall and the tray.
8. Fix the side panels to the shower tray to conceal the pipework from view.

Laying artificial grass on concrete needs a slightly different approach to if you’re installing it over soil. The good news is that it’s much less labour intensive, as you don’t need to do any digging or levelling.

Ideally, your concrete base should be in good condition, and have an adequate fall on it to provide efficient drainage. If it doesn’t, you might have to do some repair work or drill some drainage holes first.

When you’re ready to start, begin by cleaning your concrete base. Use a jet wash or a hose and brush to dislodge and disperse any dirt or plant growth. Once it’s clean, leave it to dry completely.

Then, you need to fit an underlay - usually it’s made of foam. This will provide padding to make your artificial grass softer and more comfortable to walk on. It will also help to level out any slopes on uneven parts on the concrete. Make sure it’s a good-quality underlay that’s permeable – if it’s not, you could end up with damp artificial grass and nasty smells as it will hold moisture. Roll out the underlay and cut it to shape, taping any separate sections together.

Next, use an adhesive to secure the underlay to your concrete. Make sure you leave gaps in the adhesive to allow water to drain off easily. Leave the glue to dry, then you can start laying your grass.

Roll out your grass like you did with your underlay, cutting it to shape and joining any separate sections together with artificial grass tape. Then glue the grass to the underlay. Leave it dry, give the grass a brush, and it’ll be ready to use!