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It always an exciting decision to extend your home, be it adding to an existing room or building a new one all together. However, the problem starts when you realize there are so many options giving you a tricky challenge of knowing which to choose or where to start. There are great differences in renovations between homes, but a common question that remains is whether to go for a conservatory or an orangery.

There are large array of differences between the styles and knowing a thing or two about the special attributes is definitely a great way to get started. Let’s have a look!

• Orangeries are generally best suited to traditional-styled homes or with older property making use of matching stone or brick in construction. Meanwhile for a more recent or modern property, a conservatory will be the better option to add the flair to your property.

• Conservatories tend to be larger than orangeries, therefore if you want a smaller extension, an orangery would be your best bet.

• Orangeries are typically rectangular in shape and is traditionally a more regular building meanwhile a conservatory can be shaped to suit your needs. With an conservatory, you can get a T-shaped, L-shaped, curved, double ended and lean-to extensions to suit your preference.

• An orangery usually possess a flat roof at the edges with a glazed lantern section right at the centre. You can also find more luxurious orangeries having two or more lantern sections. However, when it comes to the roofing, conservatories generally have more options. Some are gabled or pitched, others are lean-to with a plethora of choice to finish off the roof.

• Due to the fact that orangeries are made of more brick than glass when compared to conservatories, they usually provide more insulation than their counterpart. If your goal is to use the extension during the winter months, then constructing an orangery is the best bet.

Generally, 4-yard skips are basically designed for small clean or clear out projects or residential use. If you want to carry out a small renovation task or to clear out your home, you simply can not ignore the disposal of your unwanted waste. You’ll save yourself some time, money and potential accidents by hiring a 4-yard skip that will do the job effectively. We are all aware how time consuming it is making several trips to the local waste disposal centre.

When talking about the size of a 4-yard skip, it runs beyond its capacity. Skips of small sizes can be easily accommodated in not too large spaces which can be in the garden or driveway which saves you the stress and money of having to acquire skip hire permits.

If you’d like to know the the size of a 4 yard skip in metres, we’ve got you fully covered for both imperial and metric! The answer is provided below:

Imperial - Width 4’3, Height 3’2

Metric - Width 1.29m, Height 0.972m

It is, however, important to take note that when hiring a skip the measurement might be a bit tricky. The ‘4 yard’ term implies the capacity of the skip and not the length. The actual length of a 4 yard skip is only 6 feet or 2 yards. As a result, before you hire a skip, there’s the need to be clear as to the measurement you’re looking for. Otherwise, you might end up hiring the wrong skip and having to get another. Not good for your pocket, right? Well, that’s why we’ve provided this answer to help you in the best possible way! Click here to learn more about skips.

After making the very important business decision to go solar, you may also want to know just how long it’ll take to complete the installation process and start generating electricity. After all, generating electricity is the main reason you made the switch to solar system. In this post, we’re going to provide you with in depth details on how long it takes to install solar panels as well as the factors that may affect that time.

The entire process of solar panels installation and getting them approved isn’t an overnight process. You’ll have to wait for periods for each step of the process whereby one must be completed before moving to the next. The time required to complete each step can, however, vary largely depending on your location, the type of solar panels you opt for, the solar company you hire as well as the number of people that’ll be making the installation. Here are the steps to a solar system installation and the estimated time each are expected to take:

• Site assessment. Once you chosen your solar company, the first step would be to have a solar professional from the company to visit the site to examine the roof and other features so as to make sure that they’re able to support a solar system. From the initial contact to scheduling the site visit, this step can take up to 1 to 2 weeks
• Local permitting. This involves getting the right permits from your local authorities. This can take up to 3 to 6 or more weeks.
• Solar system design. This may take up to a week or two depending on whether or not you need design approval and also where the parts are coming from
• Installation. This step can take a week or two depending on the size af your solar panel and roof.
• Inspection. This step can take up to a week depending on where you reside and how quickly the inspector can visit.
• Utility connection. Depending on your utility company, this step can take up to 2 weeks.

Aluminium windows have a range of benefits that make them a great alternative to uPVC windows. Developments in technology have meant that modern aluminium windows now have the same energy efficiency levels as uPVC. Plus, their strength and flexibility make them a more attractive choice to many homeowners, particularly for more modern buildings.

Aluminium frames are typically much thinner than uPVC frames, allowing more light in and wider views. The metal can also be moulded to suit custom shapes, making it ideal for unusually shaped windows. Aluminium windows are available in lots of different colours, so can be designed to suit a wide range of interiors and exteriors.

How To Lay Tiles On Concrete

Installation of tiles on concrete sub-floors can be done with relative ease under adequate guidance. Here is what you have to do.

lPrepare The Concrete Subfloor

• Ensure the concrete is dry, clean and must be at least 6 weeks old.

• If there are dips and humps, level the concrete using a levelling compound.

lSet Out

• Working from the centre outwards, take a measurement of the floor (both length and width) and draw a cross at the centre.

• Lay out the tiles from the cross with a space of 3mm between each tiles. This will allow for movement stresses within the floor and later to be filled with grout upon installation of the tiles and adhesive dried.

lCut The Tiles

• Due to the particularly had nature of some floor tiles such as natural stone and porceclain, high quality tools are usually required to produce a clean cut through the tiles. With the help of an electric wet cutter alongside a slide cutter and nippers, your job would be made a lot easier.

• For a better result during intricate cuts, make use of a cardboard template.

lFix The Tiles

• The tiles should be fixed using a cement-based adhesive.

• Ensure to refer to the packaging or product data for the mixing ratios information.

• Stir the mixture till its lump-free

lApply The Mixture

• Spread the mixture onto the concrete sub-floor to create parallel ribs with the help of a floor trowel.

• Push the tiles into the parallel ribs.

• Clear out any excess adhesive from the tiles surface with a damp sponge.

• Do not walk on the tiles for at least 2 hours.

lGrout

• Once the adhesive is dried, wipe out any dust, adhesive or dirt from the tiles’ gaps.

• Mix about 4 to 5 parts of grout powder with 1 part of water and ix together.

• Apply the mixed grout diagonally across the tiles using a soft rubber grout float.

• Wipe out excess grout from the tiles surface and allow the tiles to dry.

• Stubborn residues can be cleaned using any washing up detergent with warm water within 24 hours after grouting.

Installing a plasterboard on your ceiling is a cool way to modernize your property. Over the past couple of decades, there has bee an increasing number of trends associated with plastering of both walls and ceilings such as rounded edges and textured plaster. However, in recent times, home and property owners are now looking to install more of sharp edges. If you’re planning to plaster your ceiling, you’d probably want to know just how much this project is going to cost. If yes, then you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll give you a rough estimate of ceiling plastering costs.

There are a plethora of factors the can influence the price of plastering your ceiling. These pricing components includes the following:

✓ Size. As you would have expected, the larger the job, the more the overall cost. However, the price per square metre will reduce which means that the cost of plastering a small ceiling space will cost more per square metre than the cost of plastering a larger ceiling space per square metre.

✓ Materials. We have a wide range of plasterboard available in the market. If you need a fire retardant, acoustic or other types of specialist plasterboard, you can expect to pay higher than standard plasterboards.

✓ Location. Just like many other home improvement projects, the cost of plastering ceiling varies greatly throughout the UK. Places such as London and the South East have the highest prices due to the high standard of living as well as greater demands.

In general, to plaster a ceiling (small 2 m x 2 m) - overboard and plaster will cost within the range of £200 to about £300. Also, to plaster a ceiling (large 5 m x 6 m) - overboard and plaster will cost within the range of £400 to about £600. The average plasterer’s daily rate (including material) is about £180 to £300 and ceiling plastering cost per square metre ranges between £20 to £40.

Paving can be used for driveways and is capable of bearing the weight of cars and other vehicles. Ensure that you choose the appropriate type of paving, as some are designed for paths or decorative use. Correct installation is vital as improperly installed paving may move or break under the weight of a car.

It’s possible to paint your artex ceiling if you want to smarten it up or make it a different colour.

If it’s never been painted before, you’ll need to paint it with a PVA-based solution or water-thinned paint layer to start with. You may want to scrape or sand off any loose or peeling patches beforehand, but only do this if you’re sure that the artex doesn’t contain any asbestos.

Once you’ve done this, follow with two coats of your paint of choice – ideally an emulsion. If your artex ceiling has been painted before then you can paint directly without priming. However, if you’re painting over a particularly bold colour with a lighter one, you might want apply a layer of white paint first.