Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Honiton.

Adhesives are an integral component used in the floor tiling installation process. The issue, however is, there are a number of different adhesives available which each having their specific uses. If you’re wondering the best adhesives to use on floors, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you some tips to help you determine the most suitable adhesive for your floor tiles. Let’s take a look!

The best adhesive for your floor tiles will depend on the space the floor resides in. However, in general, thinset mortar is the most common for floor tiles and not pre-mixed adhesive. For instance, if you’re placing your tiles in an area that contains moisture like in the bathroom, the most suitable adhesive to use would be thinset mortar.

When it comes to installing your tiles on top of wood flooring, your best bet would also be using thinset mortar. With that in mind, it’s crucial that prior to any tile work being carried out on wood flooring, you put a tile backing board on the top of the wood or plywood. This is important to make sure there’s an even surface for the adhesive application which guarantees the durability of your floor tiles. Furthermore, if you’re looking to use tile adhesive on a cement surface, the best tile adhesive to use will also be thinset mortar. If you want to do this, you should first make sure that all dusts or debris on the surface are removed to ensure that the adhesive sticks as it should. Once done, you should proceed to even out the cement to ensure that it’s not sloping. This should be done to guarantee the best results.

Asbestos fibres are very small, so they’re not possible to identify with the naked eye. However, they’re common in particular materials of a certain age, so you can work out if there are any parts of a building that are likely to contain asbestos.

Start by checking the date that the material you suspect contains asbestos was installed. If it was in 2000 or after then you don’t need to worry, it definitely doesn’t contain asbestos. However, if it was fitted before 2000 it may contain asbestos, particularly if this was between 1940 and 1980.

Materials that used to commonly contain asbestos include ceiling tiles, guttering, soffits, fascia, external cladding and facades, vinyl flooring, artex, cement roofs and insulation.

Wet rot simply refers to the decay of timber caused by high moisture levels. This natural decay occurs when the moisture content in timber is about 30 percent to 50 percent. This is opposing to dry rot which only occurs as a result of a lower moisture content of about 20 percent. Naturally, a fungus is attracted to very damp wood, which it feeds off and in turn, destroying it. There are a number of fungus types, however the most common type is Coniophora puteana (also referred to as cellar fungus). In general, wet rot is usually confined to a localised damp area and does not spread which makes it a lot less destructive when compared to dry rot. However, if left untreated or totally ignored, wet rot can be just as destructive as dry rot and can greatly reduce the structural strength of the timber thereby causing a major structural damage in the process. So, what causes wet rot? Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that wet rot would be non-existent without a damp area to grow and thrive as wet spores are attracted to wet timber with a high level of moisture content. This moisture can be as a result of a number of issues which includes defective plumbing, leaking gutters, leaking roof, broken pipes, leaking washing machine or a leaking shower tray or bath. When the moisture a timber is exposed to is excessive, this offer the perfect environment for the growth of wet rot as it enables fungal spores to germinate and grow. They use the wet timber as a food source and eat it away, leading to a weakened wood and a compromised structural integrity.

To inexperienced people laying of paving slab isn’t much more than digging a little, purchasing little amount of mortar and pressing down the paving slabs. But how good would it have been if only it were that easy in real life? The truth is, in reality, laying paving slabs does not only require you to prepare your sub-base painstakingly and mix your mortar using the appropriate materials, but you’d also have to work with accurate and precise paver placements to guarantee the patio’s longevity. As a result, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you hire the services of a seasoned professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and extra cash that may result from possible costly errors. In this guide, you’d gain more insight into the paving slabs laying process.

To get started, you’ll need sharp sand, cement, shovel, wheelbarrow, pointing trowel, rubber mallet, spirit level, jointing compound, hard-bristled brush and tarpaulin.

• Mix a layer of mortar for each paver.

• Apply the mixed mortar onto the sub base by using the trowel.

• Slot the first flag in place and ensure not to stain the paver’s surface with the mixed mortar.

• Using a rubber mallet, carefully tap the paver to the mortar bed. Once done, ensure the surface is even with a spirit level.

• Take a measurement of the gap between the pavers

• Repeat the above steps until all pavers have been perfectly laid

• Leave the pavers to dry for about 1 to 2 days. You can protect it using a tarpaulin if concerned about rain.

• Use the jointing compound to fill up the paver gaps to bind together the pavers. Ensure to wipe off any excess compound using the hard bristled brush.

The flight of steps in your multi-storey household doesn’t have to be purely efficient. With just a little thought given to banister design, the boring flight of stairs can turn into something you would like to show to people and be proud of. Replacement of your banister can even enhance the worth of your property, giving the entry an outstanding presence. But how much will new banisters and spindles cost you?

If you are considering starting with this project, having a help from a professional is always advised.

New banister cost

Banisters are also known as handrails. They are reinforced by balustrades or spindles – a row of pillars that improve the security of the stairway and donate in the direction of the overall look and feel. Banisters and spindles may appear dull due to use over time. A fresh coat of polish might help your staircase get a new facelift.

The cost of new banisters and spindles will fluctuate solely reliant on the material. The price for a new banister starts around £40 for softwood and can reach £120 for a metal one.

Spindle prices are also a contributing factor in determining the cost with prices in the range of £30 to £150 per meter based on the materials used.

How much does a new staircase banister cost?

Hiring a professional is very important when trying to properly install a new banister since they are familiar with the process and work as per safety compliance. Fitting your new banister can be easily taken care by a general builder as well as a carpenter.

Below is a table depicting the average costs of different types of bannisters and spindles:

White oak bannister is around £105 and spindles are around £13.50.

Pine bannister is around £35 and spindles are around £7.

Primed wood bannister costs around £31 and spindles costing around £18.

Metal bannister is around £110 with the spindles being around £6.

Leaves, twigs and moss all have something in common which commonly frustrates house and homeowner - they are the 3 major materials that adversely impacts the correct performance of a roof guttering system. The major reason for water drainage issues for many houses as well as buildings are these natural products. Wondering just how some leaves as well as few branches can trigger such a big problem? Over time there'll be a progressive build up of the all-natural debris in your rain gutter system which begins to rot and also count on a thick as well as sloppy goo which blocks the flow of water in your water drainage. Consequently, there's the demand to make sure that your rain gutters are completely cleansed at least twice every year in order to protect against larger issues that can be triggered by the obstruction of a drain system.

So if you're thinking about obtaining your rain gutters cleaned by a specialist, you 'd probably want know simply exactly how it's going to set you back. Well, there's not uncomplicated and straightforward answer to this question as there are a number of variables that adds to the final cleaning expense of your rain gutters.

In general, in the UK, the ordinary cost for cleaning of seamless gutter is generally around ₤ 18 to regarding ₤ 25 per hour. Nevertheless, you can additionally be priced quote a day price which is usually ranging between ₤ 150 to ₤ 200 per day.

The variables that can affect gutter cleaning rate includes the sort of your home (such as a terraced, end of terraced, detached as well as semi detached houses) which has a differing seamless gutter cleaning rate greatly as a result of their dimension differences, the height of the building (if you call for the service for a building situated on the second floor of a building, this would certainly be a little bit higher than if it were to be on the first stage) as well as added requests.

Biomass boilers will work with existing central heating systems, presuming this is not decades old, whether they use radiators or under floor heating. A surveyor will check the existing system you have in place before quoting for or recommending a biomass boiler to you.

A resin bound driveway is made from resin and aggregates that are mixed together to create a smooth, flat surface. They’re often called ‘stone carpets’ because they offer a decorative finish that is durable and requires very little maintenance. It has lots of little gaps that allow water to drain into the ground, which means that you won’t get pooling or flooding around your property.

You can choose from lots of different colours and types of aggregate (stones) so that your resin bound driveway complements your property. Most contractors recommend choosing a darker aggregate because they are more resistant to the sun, but if you choose a good UV-resistant resin you should be able to have a lighter stone that doesn’t get too bleached by the sun.

To lay a resin bound driveway, resin and aggregates are mixed in a forced action mixer to create a mixture that a tradesperson will then pour and trowel onto a prepared base. It will become smooth once it’s cured, and the stones will all be contained, so you won’t have to spend time sweeping gravel back onto your driveway. The only maintenance that’s needed is to wash it with soapy water every now and again and sweep away any debris. Just make sure you don’t use chemicals or oils, as this might damage the coating.