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1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.

Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.

In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.

Due to temperature changes, conservatory window seal expand and contract over time which may lead to them wearing out eventually. If you’re facing a similar issue with your conservatory window seal, then you’d probably want to know how you can go about the repair. If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post we’re going to take you through the conservatory window seal repair process. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, let consider how to determine if your windows needs to be resealed. This is a very simple procedure as a visual check can help identify whether or not the window needs to be resealed. Simply watch out for the area where the windows meets with the frame as well as the point where various sections of windows meet with one another. You should observe whether there’s an obvious sign of wear and tear, gaps and cracks in the seal. If any is found, then your conservatory window seal will have to be repaired as soon as possible. Another important indicator is a draught coming from the window area or visible condensation signs on internal panels of the glass panes.

When it comes to the resealing of windows, it’s highly recommended that you call in a professional. However, if you wish to carry out the task by yourself as an experienced DIYer, then it would be wise to take extra caution. If done the wrong way, this is likely to generate further issues along the road while also allowing more heat to escape your conservation

Are you thinking about updating your bathroom? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how to go about it. Well, when it comes to bathroom remodelling, the process always begins with the drawing of a floor plan. If you don’t know how to go about that, then you’ve come to the right place! In this guide, we’re going to take you through the bathroom floor plan drawing process. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, you can make use of the pencil and paper approach as it happens to be much cheaper than the computer based approach. Plus, you don’t have to be an art genius in school to complete the task satisfactorily.

1. Sketch it out. Create a rough sketch of the space on unlined paper. This should feature all openings like the doors and windows, the spots where the existing plumbing fixtures are located, the location of the electrical lines including outlets, receptacles, heating and cooling pipes and more
2. Add dimensions to the sketch. The next line of action would be to take measurements of the bathroom. With the help of a friend, hold the tape tightly at both ends in order to get the right dimensions. Then, measure the length of the walls, fixtures, windows and mark then roughly on the sketch. Once done, you can go back to double check the recorded measurements for accuracy.
3. Transfer the room dimensions to a sheet of graph paper. At the stage in the process, you should be aware that each 1/4 inch square on the graph paper is equal to 6 inches or half foot. You can start by drawing the bathroom walls and partitions as well as the surrounding areas. Then, add the doors and the direction they swing open and the windows present. Once done, draw the fixtures to complete the floor plan.

Range cooker hoods should be installed between 65 -75cm above the hob. However, you should check installation instructions, as some cooker hood styles need to be installed slightly lower. If you fit your cooker hood too high, it will reduce extraction performance.

If you’re planning to add a kitchen extension to your property or perhaps you’re simply looking for ways to increase the value of your property, this is one of the common questions that usually pops up. A simple answer to this question is yes, a kitchen extension will add value to your house. With a kitchen being one of the most frequently used room in a house, adding an extra space to the commonly used room can only increase the value of the entire property. However, to determine the value added by such an extension, there’s a need to calculate the cost of setting one up first.

Kitchen extension costs are greatly influenced by a wide range of variables such as the size, type of the extension and specifications, your location, professional fees, materials used and more. Overall, the type of the extension you opt for will play the most significant role in the determination of your kitchen extension cost. Here, we’ll be looking at a single storey kitchen extension.

For a single storey kitchen extension, you can expect your home’s market value to increase within the range of 5 percent to about 10 percent. When trying to calculate the cost of kitchen extension, it’s crucial to take into account how much value it’ll add to your home so as to make sure that the amount expended will not outweigh the expected value to be added by the project.

For a more accurate idea, there’s the need to consult local estate agents. However, for a much needed guideline, single storey kitchen extensions are usually able to add about 5 to 10 percent to a home’s value, while double storey extension should be up to 20 percent. But as stated earlier, this will depend on several variables.

Yes, an aerial could be installed in your garden or on outbuildings. This will depend on the strength of the signal in your area. A professional aerial installation company will be able to advise you on the possible locations for an aerial on your property.

The flight of steps in your multi-storey household doesn’t have to be purely efficient. With just a little thought given to banister design, the boring flight of stairs can turn into something you would like to show to people and be proud of. Replacement of your banister can even enhance the worth of your property, giving the entry an outstanding presence. But how much will new banisters and spindles cost you?

If you are considering starting with this project, having a help from a professional is always advised.

New banister cost

Banisters are also known as handrails. They are reinforced by balustrades or spindles – a row of pillars that improve the security of the stairway and donate in the direction of the overall look and feel. Banisters and spindles may appear dull due to use over time. A fresh coat of polish might help your staircase get a new facelift.

The cost of new banisters and spindles will fluctuate solely reliant on the material. The price for a new banister starts around £40 for softwood and can reach £120 for a metal one.

Spindle prices are also a contributing factor in determining the cost with prices in the range of £30 to £150 per meter based on the materials used.

How much does a new staircase banister cost?

Hiring a professional is very important when trying to properly install a new banister since they are familiar with the process and work as per safety compliance. Fitting your new banister can be easily taken care by a general builder as well as a carpenter.

Below is a table depicting the average costs of different types of bannisters and spindles:

White oak bannister is around £105 and spindles are around £13.50.

Pine bannister is around £35 and spindles are around £7.

Primed wood bannister costs around £31 and spindles costing around £18.

Metal bannister is around £110 with the spindles being around £6.