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Adding a lean to conservatory to your home or property comes with a whole lot of benefits. It provides you with the much needed additional living space within your property, add value to your home and creates a link between your home and garden. As advantageous as it is, one of the major concerns several homeowners have is whether or not is requires a planning permission. This is a crucial question that must be answered before you make financial commitment to the project. If you don’t know what you’re doing the entire process can be very tedious and you definitely do not want to go through the stress of completing your remarkable new conservatory, only to be instructed to have it removed again. In this post, we’re going to consider if obtaining a planning permission is required before adding a lean to conservatory to your property.

Generally, adding a lean to conservatory to a property is considered to be a “Permitted Development, which implies that you won’t have to apply for a planning permission to complete the project without any risk of interruption from the appropriate authorities. However, there certain circumstance that’ll require a planning permission. These circumstances include:

• If the conservatory covers more than 50 percent of the land around the main house.
• If the conservatory will be placed on the side of the house that faces the road.
• If the conservatory will be higher than the highest point of the main building’s roof.
• If the main building is lower than the height of the eaves and ridge.
• If the conservatory will be constructed to the side of the house and more than a single storey or it goes higher than 4 metres.
• If the conservatory will be wider than the width of the main building, if it’s to be built beside it.
• If the conservatory will be constructed at the rear and higher than 4 metres.

Laying artificial grass on concrete needs a slightly different approach to if you’re installing it over soil. The good news is that it’s much less labour intensive, as you don’t need to do any digging or levelling.

Ideally, your concrete base should be in good condition, and have an adequate fall on it to provide efficient drainage. If it doesn’t, you might have to do some repair work or drill some drainage holes first.

When you’re ready to start, begin by cleaning your concrete base. Use a jet wash or a hose and brush to dislodge and disperse any dirt or plant growth. Once it’s clean, leave it to dry completely.

Then, you need to fit an underlay - usually it’s made of foam. This will provide padding to make your artificial grass softer and more comfortable to walk on. It will also help to level out any slopes on uneven parts on the concrete. Make sure it’s a good-quality underlay that’s permeable – if it’s not, you could end up with damp artificial grass and nasty smells as it will hold moisture. Roll out the underlay and cut it to shape, taping any separate sections together.

Next, use an adhesive to secure the underlay to your concrete. Make sure you leave gaps in the adhesive to allow water to drain off easily. Leave the glue to dry, then you can start laying your grass.

Roll out your grass like you did with your underlay, cutting it to shape and joining any separate sections together with artificial grass tape. Then glue the grass to the underlay. Leave it dry, give the grass a brush, and it’ll be ready to use!

How To Take Tiles Off A Wall

The bonding agent or adhesive usually incorporated to hold a tile against the wall are always very strong or else you’ll find your tiles peeling off. As a result, to have them removed is not the easiest of tasks and bashing them with a hammer, will only have them broken leaving you with the task of having to scrape off the pieces. A better and much easier approach to removing tiles from a wall will be to pry them off one after the other. So how do you go about this? Let’s have a look!

lSafety First, Then Remove The First Tile

• Wear a protective eye goggle and gloves.

• Break up the grout around a tile located atthe wall’s centre using a putty knife and hammer.

• Place the putty knife under the the tile and gently it with the hammer.

lRemove The Remaining Tiles

• By tapping and prying using the tools - hammer and putty knife, wipe off all the tiles in the vertical row.

• Once done, continue to detaching the tiles in the adjacent rows until you’re able to open a wallboard section that’s around 12 inches wide and does not obstruct a stud.

• Use a keyhole blade to poke it through the wallboard.

• With the help of a reciprocating saw, cut out the wallboard’s section.

lCut The Fasteners

• Using a metal-cutting blade, cut te wallboard-holding fasteners. Make sure the fasteners holding the wallboard to the top and bottom plates of the wall are both detached.

lRemove All Wallboard Sections

• Using a similar approach, gently remove the other sections of the wallboard.

• Once completed, you can easily sweep the tiles’ broken pieces.

• Finally, vaccum the grout dust to ensure the work is neatly done.

If you lack a proper training or experience, taking off your tiles from a wall is best left to a skilled professional for the best results and to prevent potential damages which can lead to additional costs.

How Can I Get My Oil Boiler Repaired?

Did your oil boiler just broke down and you’re considering your repair options? Well, you’ve come to the right place! Whenever your oil boiler breaks down, you have two options - repair it yourself or get in touch with a reliable professional. If you lack proper training or experience when it comes to fixing of oil boilers, we’d recommend that you rather hire the services of a trustworthy oil boiler engineer who can guarantee the best results while also saving you time and money that could result from possible costly errors.

However the issue is, not all oil boiler repair services are created equal. The words “expert and “professional are now so cheap that almost, if not all oil boiler repair companies online today make use of those words to qualify themselves. However, when several of them are done delivering their oil boiler repair services you’ll have no other choice than to start questioning their claimed status. In order to separate the boys from the men very early on, a little caution and some research is all that’s needed to know the most reliable company to approach.

To get a good repair company, the first step would be to make sure the company is fully accredited with a professional certification scheme so as to be sure that they’re actually qualified to deliver the service.

Another step you can take is by requesting personal recommendations from family and friends. For a company to be referred by several homeowners in the local area then it must be doing something that’s worth the money invested.

You can as well make use of the internet to get a reliable oil boiler repair company. You can start by visiting the website of the company that manufactured you appliance to identify any recommended repair companies. Go through the companies’ testimonials but do not rely too much on them because in several cases they may not be authentic.

A garden room extension, also referred to as Sunroom or Solarium, is basically a stand alone garden building that’s totally detached from the home. They are typically semi-glazed building that features a tiled roof rather than glass. What would have been good examples of garden rooms extensions include conservatories, orangeries as well as pool houses, however they are constructed with the help of different materials and features which ultimately makes them different to garden rooms.

Garden room extensions are built with the major purpose of adding extra functional living spaces for a wide range of room options such as a second living room, dining room, study space, home garden office or a rehearsal space - the options are numerous. In other words if you’re looking for an additional usable space within your home or property, a garden room extension can be designed to suit your needs. So whether you need comfy sofas for evening relaxations, a sturdy office desk for work or large dining room table for dinners with family and friends, a garden room extension can be all that you need to achieve to your living space goals or just to add more value to your property.

Garden rooms extension has multiple alternatives such as a conservatory, garage conversion, loft conversion, extension and garden rooms. However, it has some great benefits over its alternatives. These benefits include, being very cost effective, hassle free, can be built within 5 to 9 days, rarely requires planning permission, does not require building regulations approval, includes a full professional installation and management without any need for subcontractors, modern and unique as well as being very versatile. Overall, if you’re looking to create an additional space in your home without having to break the bank, then garden room extensions may be your best bet.

One of the major challenges faced by double gates is wind as this is always blowing over the gates and slamming them together anytime it passes by. So how do you tackle this? Since you can do only so little about the wind, the only option you have is to enforce or secure your double gates. This is quite simple if you have the adequate knowledge and skills, if not, we’d strongly recommend calling in a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. In this post, we’re going to take your through the processes involved in securing a double gate to ensure your project turns out a success. Let’s take a look!

1. Hammer a pipe into the ground. Since this isn’t a heavy construction work, you need not worry about water finding its way into your basement. To do this, simply open the gate and stretch it to determine how far it can go. Once done, proceed to mark the place right below the gate’s edge. This is the spot where you will hammer in the metal pipe.
2. Install the lower bracket. With the pipe in place, the next thing is to have the lower bracket installed. Start by drilling some pilot holes if necessary, then screw the nails right into the wooden gate via the bracket’s holes.
3. Take measurements for the top bracket using the cane bolt. Once done with the lower bracket installation, you’ll have to bring out the cane bolt and attach it to the gate to give you an idea of where to place the top bracket - mark the spot using a pencil.
4. Install the top bracket. Start by removing the cane bolt and install the top bracket just as you’ve done with the lower bracket.
5. Install the cane bolt through both brackets.

Well, just like many other team work, a bricklayer is only as good as his supporting cast. And a hard-working labourer should be able to keep three bricklayer gangs happy. But even when he gets to serve just one bricklayer, the site conditions and nature of the wall can also play a huge role in determining the number of bricks that can be laid within 24 hours.

With the best possible site condition, hard-working labourer and best scenario with no pillars, no face brick, long straight wall and no wall ties, a well trained bricklayer should be able to lay within a range of 800 to 1100 bricks all day long. However, you rarely get walls like this as there is always going to be some corner or curve somewhere which usually takes some time to get right. Furthermore, once the bricklayer has laid up to 5 feet, there’ll be a need to get some lift. From that point onwards, the job understandably gets slower and tougher - meaning there’ll most definitely be a face brick.

In addition, there are multiple other factors that can affect the number of bricks that can be laid in a day. Sometimes its the complex designs or weather that’ll determine the daily rate.

With the aforementioned factors and more realistically, on a good day and great site, an expert bricklayer should be able to lay about 500 to 800 bricks in a day. This is generally a very good target, but of course you never can tell with the reasons above and other factors that are simply beyond the control of the bricklayer. If you have a project and want it completed as soon as possible, you can pay the bricklayers based on the number of bricks laid to increase their efficiency.

Asbestos is a perfect example of a silent and hidden killer. The harmful fibre it releases is not only totally invisible to the eye, but also absolutely odourless, therefore can’t be smelt. As a result, you can walk into a room completely filled with asbestos and you still won’t suspect a thing. If you live in an old building ( built before the 1980’s) in the UK, it’s very possible that there’s some asbestos in the house.

Asbestos causes up to 5000 deaths in the UK on a yearly basis. When asbestos materials are disturbed, they release asbestos fibres, which when inhaled can result in lung cancer, asbestosis as well as mesothelioma which are all painful and fatal diseases. And perhaps even more importantly, you won’t notice any symptoms of having these diseases until after several years after your first exposure to asbestos fibres.

Therefore, to reduce these numbers, there’s a crucial need to to know how to identify asbestos so as not to put both ourselves and loved ones at risk.

There are three types of asbestos which includes blue or crocidolite, brown or amosite, and white or chrysotile. So they can easily be identified by their respective colour names, right? Wrong! Asbestos fibres can not be seen with the eye, it can only be detected under a microscope. They’re very tiny and light, and once disturbed and in the air, they can float can days. Asbestos are commonly found in several building materials such as cement products, floor tiles, paints, adhesive, partitions, cladding, insulation, doors and lots more. With its wide acceptability in the past, any building product you can probably think of could contain asbestos.