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When you build a new wood-constructed conservatory, or any type of conservatory, you’ll need to dig a trench for the footings. You’ll need to dig to a minimum depth of 600mm and at least 300mm below your property’s damp proof course. When you dig down, you might expose obstacles such as underground pipes.

If this happens, you’ll need lintels for your wood-constructed conservatory. These are usually concrete and protect the pipes or obstructions from being crushed. You may also want to use steel mesh for additional support.

Building Regulations state that if an opening is formed in a wall, the structure above the opening needs to be supported. This will be especially relevant if you’re building a wooden lean-to conservatory. It says that there are two ways that you can use lintels to provide support.

The first way involves using a steel lintel to support both the inner and outer leaf of a cavity wall. It can then serve as a cavity tray that directs moisture from the cavity through the outer skin of the wall as well.

The second way to use lintels is to use two steel or concrete lintels. They support each leaf of a cavity wall construction. You’ll need separate thermal insulation and a cavity tray as well.

Whatever type of lintel you use, it should have a suitable bearing onto the wall at each side. If you’re not sure, speak to the manufacturer of your wood-constructed conservatory, or ask a reputable company to install it for you.

Whether you’re liable for a leaking roof in a commercial property will depend on your ownership status and any contracts. Of course, if you own a standalone commercial property, it would make it your responsibility to repair to leaking roof. But if you own an office within a building, you should check your paperwork to see whether you are responsible for some or all of a leaking roof.

If you’re a tenant in a commercial property, things get a bit more complicated. Lots of commercial leases are FRI, or Full Repairing and Insuring leases, which means that the tenant is responsible for all external and internal maintenance and insuring the building. It means that it’s vital that you read through your tenancy agreement in full before signing it and seek legal advice if you think you need it. If your lease is an FRI lease, you are liable for a leaking roof in your commercial property.

It’s important to ensure that you have a schedule of condition for the property, which will mean that you only have to restore the commercial property back to the condition that it was in when you took over. It’s also worth getting the roof inspected before you sign the lease, as if there is any damage before you sign the landlord may be responsible.

The best way to avoid having to pay for a leaking roof in a commercial property is prevention. If you are liable for repairs and maintenance, make sure you have the roof inspected regularly by a reputable company to avoid having to pay for costly repairs when disaster strikes.

The Hive thermostat stand is relatively easy to install, however if you lack the necessary training or experience, this is a task you might want to leave to a professional to guarantee the best result while also saving you money and time. This guide will give you a good insight into the Hive thermostat installation process.

The installation of a Hive thermostat does require it to be connected to your home boiler. For this reason we always recommend you get a professional to install it. However once install the Hive Smart Thermostat is very easy to operate and move the controller around your home. To get started, you can follow these steps:

• Press the lever at the lower side of the thermostat and pull away from the front to detach the back plate of your device.

• Once done, simply hang the thermostat on the stand back plate and ensure it holds firmly in place

When it comes to Hive thermostat installation, you might also want to consider the positioning of the device in such a way to heat your home even more efficiently as its designed to be very sensitive to temperature. To identify the best spot for your Hive thermostat, let’s take a look at some of the dos and don’ts.

A Few Dos:

• Do maintain the position of your Hive Thermostat to keep a stable connection with the receive and Hive Hub.

• Do ensure that the position chosen is the centre of your home or a frequently used room.

• Do place the thermostat about 1 to 1.5 metres from floor.

• Do ensure that your thermostat is in a close proximity with the hub and receiver for a better functionality.

A Few Don’ts:

• Don’t place your Hive thermostat stand close to radiators, direct sunlight or other heat sources,

• Don’t position your device near or at places that can expoerience a sudden change in temperature such as the front or back door.

• Don’t leave your thermostat too close to curtains or ornaments.

First and foremost, the purpose of a landlord insurance is simple and pretty straightforward. It protects against risks associated with your rental property as well as activity. Most policies start out with building insurance as well as property owners’ liability insurance but you’re absolutely free to include several other covers. These covers can include tenant default or accidental damage, loss of rent and more depending on your needs. It’s important to note that varying types of landlord insurance provides coverage for different sorts of risks. For instance, building insurance provides coverage for the cost of repairing or rebuilding your property, while contents insurance provides coverage for contents if they’re damaged or stolen. However, the question is, does landlord insurance cover boiler? In this post, we’re going to shed more light into this to help you make informed decisions moving forward. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, landlord insurance can definitely cover boiler break down! However, this is usually possible only if you select this option when you purchase your landlord insurance policy. With some boiler cover providers, you’ll have to include a home emergency cover to your landlord insurance so as to cover any form of boiler break down. Once this is done, if the boiler in your rental property starts to malfunction or stops functioning, a Gas Safe registered engineer would be sent to your premises to help out with the situation. With this, the repairing cost of your heating system would be covered by the insurance excluding any excess and up to the limit of your policy.

Are you worried there’s a slope on the area where your block paving is to be installed? Good news is, it’s very possible to lay block paving on a slope. However, this can be a very difficult task which should be done by a reliable professional ( especially if you lack proper training and experience) who can guarantee the best results, the first time and also help save you money from possible costly mistakes. This guide will provide you with everything you need about the slope block paving installation process. Let’s have a look!

• Demarcate The Walkway

To get started, you have to determine how and where you want your walkway to be while also determining the thickness of the paver. Ensure to choose the less sloppy area and utilize landscape paint to mark the area visibly.

• Prepare The Ground

Clear out all forms of dirts, roots, rocks and other debris on the soil. Once done, proceed to cutting the sods to the required length and put them somewhere close.

• Make Boundaries

There’s a need for landscape borders. Here, it’ll be easier to use plastics as boundaries for your lawn’s edges. Install them on the sides that have already been cut

• Apply A Level Of Gravel

Obtain the correct size of gravel and spread them evenly over the area to ensure a firm foundation for the pavers is formed. Makes sure that the rocks is at a minimum of 2 inches deep into the soil.

• Install The Block Pavers

Start from the centremost position of the pathway and work towards the sides until you’re able to cover every inch of the area.

• Apply A Layer Of Cement

Apply cement over the pavers and utilize a broom to sweep it and fill up all the gaps and spaces between the pavers. Then, press the pathway to be levelled using a compactor.

Yes – solar thermal can be used for central heating. Solar thermal panels work by collecting heat from the sun, either through evacuated tubes or flat plate collectors, and transferring that to a heat transfer liquid that heats your hot water. This can then be used to preheat your central heating.

You’ll need a hot water cylinder to store the water that your solar thermal panels heat up. It’s likely that you’ll need an immersion heater or boiler to heat the water further so you can use it for your central heating, and as a back-up during the longest winter months since the solar panels won’t be able to generate as much heat.

In our opinion, it’s best to use your solar thermal panels for hot water rather than your central heating. That’s because you use hot water all year round, whereas you probably won’t have your central heating on in the spring and summer, when the panels can generate the most heat. For central heating, air- or ground-source heat pumps are a great renewable option, and you can even power them with electricity from solar PV panels if you want to be as eco-friendly as possible.

Also referred to as Freon, the refrigerant “R22 is a commonly used chlordiflouromethane that’s usually incorporated in air conditioning systems as well as many other refrigeration applications. However, because of the evidence discovered which shows the gas can contribute to the damage of the ozone layer, the refrigerant has now been banned since Dec 31, 2009 as it became legally required that any system making use of R22 and became faulty must be replaced.

Generally, R22 owners in commercial applications are now responsible for checking for leaks, record keeping as well as labelling of equipment using this type of gas. Failure to comply with these directives can lead to hefty fines.

Existing refrigeration and air conditioning equipment that makes use of R22 can still be used. However, the owner of the equipment will be denied any rights to purchase extra tanks of gas that’ll keep the equipment running. In the event whereby an air conditioning system requires a complete recharge of the R22 refrigerant, according to the law, it’ll be considered obsolete and therefore will have to be replaced. What’s more? As the remaining supplies of R22 starts to decline, the price of getting the refrigerant is expected to skyrocket. As a result, do not be shocked if the cost of purchasing more R22 to keep your current equipment running outweighs the cost of replacing your existing equipment with a new and environmentally approved one.

As R22 is gradually being phased out, there are new ozone friendly alternatives which are being introduced into the refrigerant market. Out of these alternatives, the most common one is the R410A, which is purely a combination of hydrofluorocarbons which does not deplete the ozone layer.

How To Paint Exterior Window Sills And Frames?

Painting your exterior window sills and frames can be a very joyful and fun-filled activity if you know what you’re doing. It’s a task that can be completed in little time by an experienced DIYer, however if you do not have the confidence to pull off this project, then you’d be better off calling in a professional for help to avoid costly mistakes. In this guide, we’ll take you through the exterior window sills and frames painting process.

✓ Prepare the window sills and frames. This includes, brushing the surfaces with warm water and gentle soap, scrubbing the windows to ensure all the edges and cracks are free from all forms of dirt, rinsing it with water and use a soft, clean cloth to wipe off any excess liquid and finally, drying it off with a towel or leaving it to dry off by itself before you start to paint.

✓ Remove any signs of moulds and moss, fill in the cracks between frame and glass using a multi-purpose filler, sand the frame and wipe out any dirt or dust on or around it using a vacuum cleaner, a clean cloth or soft brush. Once done, you can then apply a coat of water-based primer and let it dry off before painting.

✓ Painting. Firstly, you’ll have to sand your primed windows to make an even, smooth surface and apply an undercoat evenly to the surface. Once completed, you can then apply at least 2 coats of paint using a quality brush. Make sure you sand the first layer carefully before you apply the second to get a great finish.

✓ Once dried, you can the finish with a top coat (make sure you go for a weather proof paint for the exterior). For the window sills, you’ll have to apply the exterior paint gently with masking tape around the edges to protect the walls from the dripping paint.