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There is a range of space-saving toilets, showers and baths available. These are designed to accommodate small spaces and could mean that you can fit a bathroom in a small room that might otherwise be unused. This can be beneficial for an en suite where space is at a premium.

Are you about to purchase a double glazed unit and wondering how to go about the replacement project? If yes, then you’re at the right place. Firstly, it’s advisable to hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help especially if you lack proper training and experience in the field. However, we’ve put together this step by step guide to provide you with a detailed information about the double glazed unit replacement process. Let’s get started!

The tools and materials you require for the project includes tape measure, hammers, nail punch, scraper, spacing blocks, non-hardening butyl putty, high-security glazing tape rolls and beading tacks.

• Work out the glass size required. Simply use the tape measure to measure from frame edge to frame edge while also taking note of the thickness.

• When about to order, inform the glass merchant that the measurement provided are frame-tight. This will make him reduce the dimension a little bit, mostly by 5mm for clearance.

• Remove the beading and ensure to support the glass while doing so. If the glass units are fitted in wooden windows, you may need to cut the putty-based compound they’re normally sealed with to remove the glass.

• Lay out the beading in the window’s shape to make for easier refitting later on.

• If you’re working on wooden frames, wipe out all traces of excess installation compound using a scraper and clean the rebate with a soft brush.

• Trial fit the double glazed windows to ensure they’d slide into the frame without being forced.

• Plastic frame windows are usually in between a pair of gaskets, you should replace this with a hight security glazing tape. While for a wooden frame, simply apply strips of flexible non-setting butyl putty or high-security glazing tape on either sides of the glass.

• Install and centralize the glass in the frame.

• Press the nail wooden beading or plastic beading back into place.

A leaky flat roof is one of those things every home and property owner would rather prefer to avoid. Not only can it be extremely frustrating to deal with, but it can also have a grave impact on the overall integrity and value of your property especially when things are not done properly. Generally, all leaky roofs pose serious problems, however, a leak in a flat roof is even a lot more complicated. Ranging from the quite simple repairs to the incredibly complex fixes, flat roof repair (also known as low slope roof repair) is be seriously problematic and at times, can call for a reconstruction which involves complicated roof insurance as well as an experienced professional support.

Flat roof repair consists of many different types. Cap sheet roofs possess layers of material glued together with hot asphalt, including a roll of mineral surface glue using asphalt to the top rather than gravel. The tar and gravel roofs also possess layers of material glued together with the help of hot asphalt, with the use of asphalt on top as well as gravel included in the asphalt. A modified bitumen roof possesses more strength when compared to a cap sheet roof or the conventional tar and gravel roof. This can be 2 or 3 plies, smooth or with a mineral surface, torched on, mopped on or self adhering. What’s more? A TPO roof is a single ply roof which is usually heat welded together. A PVC roof is also a single ply roof that’s heat welded together while an EPDM is a single ply roof that’s glued together. The foam roofs as well as various coatings are incorporated to reflect the sun’s UV rays and also to maintain and seal the roof.

The bigger the ground source heat pump, the better right? Wrong! And you’ll definitely be sorry to make such a huge mistake. When planning to install a heat pump, determining the size of the ground source heat pump is not as direct and straightforward as many homeowners would think. Here, you’ve got only a small margin for error. When the pump is too small, the heat pump will make use of the backup heater too often and in the event whereby the heat pump is too big, it’s going to short cycle. Both situations are preferably avoided as they’ll both leave you with an expensive and inefficient system.

To get the accurate size of a heat pump, there’s usually the need to hire the services of an expert and licensed heat pump installer who possesses a top notch design calculation software. In reality, the majority of inefficient systems are caused by a lack or poor understanding of the suitable design software.

There are many factors that can influence the calculation of a home’s heat pumps size. These includes

✓ Radiators and underfloor heating sizes

✓ Insulation, property fabric as well as heat loss

✓ The number of rooms in the property

✓ The types of rooms and their uses.

✓ The desired indoor temperature for varying rooms

✓ Seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Generally, a bigger house will require a bigger ground source heat pump. With an eye on the age of the property, heat loss as well as the types of the rooms, a house of about 100 square metre can require up to 4kW ground source heat pump. And for a house that’s about 200 square metre, the ground source heat pump also doubles to 8kW.

Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.

Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.

In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.

If your old kitchen is due for an upgrade, one of the first things that comes to is the potential cost of a getting replacement. In this post, we’re going to consider the amount a new kitchen is expected to cost. Let’s take a look!

Generally, fitted kitchen prices can be extremely high and even a budget project can cost huge bucks. In addition, you’re even likely to pay more if you’re interesting in getting a designer brand and shiny appliances. So how much will a new kitchen? Well, there’s no simple and direct answer to this question as there are a number of factors that play a major part in the determination of the price. These factors include the shape of the kitchen, the most preferred layout as well as the kitchen’s size.

On the average, a new kitchen will normally be around £8000. You should however note that this price is fitting and VAT inclusive, but excludes appliances and any preparation works that may or may not be required such as plastering walls, removing wallpaper as well as ripping out the old kitchen.

If you wish to keep the costs down, then you might want to set a budget before you start shopping for a new kitchen, know your most preferred kitchen and remove the old kitchen yourself. A good example of DIY effort which can go a long way to save and even make you some bucks is taking out the old cabinets by yourself and selling them off. You’d be amazed that there’ll people who are willing to pay £20 or more for a couple of old cupboards.

How To Paint Exterior Door?

The front or exterior door is an excellent way to add to your house’s visual appeal. You choose to add a little style, think outside the norm and stand out in a lot of ways.

The front door or exterior door is what your guests are going to first come in contact with and can go a long way to shape their impression about you. It’s also one of the very things that grabs attention when looking at a house from a distance. So if you’re going to paint it yourself, you should know there’s no room for errors. However, if you’re not confident enough then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. Here’s some top painting advice aimed at helping you getting the project done in a quick and easy manner.

✓ Prepare the front door. Detach the doors from the hinges ( you may decide not to completely detach the door). However, there’s the need to tape off and protect the exposed hardware or windows if you won’t be detaching the door completely before painting.

✓ Start to paint the front door. Use a brush to run along the taped area to create a frame in which the roller can easily work in. What’s more? If the exterior door is metal or fibreglass, you can create a more natural look by painting in the direction that would be on a wood door.

✓ To fill and refine your front door painting, you can simply roll the paint directly on the surface for a flat one-panel door. However, if it’s a panelled door, then you’ll have to first make use of your brush to paint the inlaid regions before using the roller on the flat, outer regions.

We all know how helpful air conditioning systems can be especially during the hot summer season which is great at making your home feel nothing less than an inferno. So if you have an AC system, you’d probably want to know if leaving it on will be cheaper and more efficient.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, leaving your air conditioning system on will make make it cheaper and more efficient. This isn’t what you or many other people will have in mind though. Under no circumstances should you leave you air conditioning system on full blast 24/7. To make your air conditioning system more efficient by leaving it on has a right and wrong way you can go about it. Let’s have a look!

If you’d ever noticed, any time you turn your air conditioner off during a very a hot day, even if it’s for just a couple of hours, things tend to get thrown out of balance pretty quickly. When turned back on, your AC system will have to work even harder to restore the usual comfort levels in the room. When you abuse this dial in such a fashion, the AC system can only become more inefficient rather than making your home more comfortable quickly.

On the other hand, your AC system ( when tuned to the right settings) can help maintain the proper temperature and humidity balance within your home instead of turning it off while away. And upon getting back, you can simply turn down the thermostat a bit which helps you prevent the usual stagnant air that you’d be hit with when your return home (with the AC system turned off) that’ll have you racing for the dial.