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It’s possible to paint your artex ceiling if you want to smarten it up or make it a different colour.

If it’s never been painted before, you’ll need to paint it with a PVA-based solution or water-thinned paint layer to start with. You may want to scrape or sand off any loose or peeling patches beforehand, but only do this if you’re sure that the artex doesn’t contain any asbestos.

Once you’ve done this, follow with two coats of your paint of choice – ideally an emulsion. If your artex ceiling has been painted before then you can paint directly without priming. However, if you’re painting over a particularly bold colour with a lighter one, you might want apply a layer of white paint first.

If you’re considering a house move, garden work or building project, one of the most common questions that comes to mind is, how much it would cost to hire a skip?

It is widely known that a skip represents one of the best and most affordable ways to get rid of your unwanted rubbish or waste. However, the determination of the cost of a skip hire depends on a number of factors such as your location, the size of the required skip, the skip hire duration as well as the requirement or otherwise of a skip hire permit.

The most significant determinant of a skip hire cost is the size required. The most common skip sizes are 4 and 8 cubic yard and as expected, the larger skips come at more expensive prices than the smaller ones. This is due to the fact that it can contain a larger amount of unwanted waste or rubbish. Generally, the skip hire price includes the delivery, collection and disposal of the waste. The more the waste, the larger the size of skip to be hired, which means a lot more expenses to be made.

Another factor that determines the cost of a skip hire is the duration. The standard duration of a skip hire is 2 weeks (14 days), however, this period can be extended for just a small amount so far a due notice is provided. Location is also another great determinant and that works considering the number of other skip hire companies in the area.

Overall, a small sized skip costs within the range of £90 to £130 per week, whereas a large sized skip of up to 12 yards for the same amount of time jumps up considerably to a range of £250 to £440. Click here to learn more about skip prices.

Do you notice your sink is taking ages to drain or perhaps you’re perceiving a funny smell oozing from it? You don’t have to panic as this is most definitely a blockage. Unblocking your drain requires just a little effort and chances are, you might not need to reach out to a professional. This blockage may be in your home’s internal or external drains but so far the the drain is within your property, it’s entirely your responsibility to make sure that they are well maintained and repaired (if the need arises).

Generally, outside drain problems are more likely to be harder to fix when compared to your average blocked sink. But it isn’t impossible should you have the relevant tools as well as knowledge. In this post, we’re going to consider a safe and effective approach to unblock a drain outside. Let’s take a look!

1. Pull the cover off the drain. This may require the use of a flat head screwdriver to remove the drain’s cover. If that isn’t working, you can try tying a rope around the cover to give you a good coverage
2. Identify the blockage. This is usually messy, but you simply have to do it if you wish to save some money. Simply reach down to remove as many of the blockage that you can reach as possible. This will make it easier for you to remove the rest with a drain rod
3. Use the drain rod. Simply put the drain rod inside and apply pressure. You’ll have to twist the rod in a clockwise direction to get into the blockage. Depending on how big or stubborn the drain is, it may take a while to get through it.

Have you been advised by a structural engineer or a surveyor that your building needs to be underpinned? Well, this might just have you wondering what underpinning really is and how long it lasts. In this post, we’re going to tell you more about underpinning to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

Basically, underpinning refers to the incorporation of one of various methods to reinforce or repair the old foundations of a building or structure mostly to remedy or avoid subsidence. Now, subsidence can be caused as a result of poor soil quality, increase in the load on the foundation like adding a new storey, excavations below the building as well as inadequate foundation which is more common in older buildings. When an underpinning remedial work is carried out, there are a plethora of benefits that comes with it. It’s preserves the structural integrity of your building by strengthening it, make it a lot more attractive, increases the property’s value and makes it a lot safer for both you and your loved ones. So how long does underpinning last?

Well, many underpinning contractors will offer you a 10-year guarantee of its underpinning solutions for defects. Primarily, there are two reasons why underpinning can fail which is poor installation and fresh issues arising or unforeseen circumstances. While the first is an issue that can be avoided by employing the services of an expert contractor who possesses vast experience and knowledge in the field, the second can not be avoided. However, in the absence of the unforeseen issues, underpinning is expected to last for the natural life of the building, so far it has been expertly installed.

• What you need the shed for
• How much space you have
• How big you need the shed to be
• Which style of roof you want
• What material you would like
• How big your budget is

• Hand-crafted from Nordic White Spruce
• Felt roof reinforced with high-grade polyester
• Tongue and groove cladding makes it more weatherproof so ideal for items that must be kept dry

• High eaves for more head height and to store taller items
• Pent roof and fixed windows allow lots of light
• Ideal for putting up against a wall or fence
• Door can be hinged either side

• Ideal for small gardens or those with fewer tools to store
• Apex roof for water runoff
• Tongue and groove walls
• Tall floor-to-gable door

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

There are two different types: flat plate, where lots of thin tubes carry water through a flat absorber panel, and evacuated tube, where vacuum glass tubes capture the sun’s energy directly. There is little difference in performance between the two but evacuated tube panels do more obviously extrude from the roof.

Is there a hole in your asphalt driveway you feel you can repair yourself? If it’s something you know you can confidently do then this step by step guide is just for you. If otherwise, then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results while also saving you some time and extra money that could result from possible errors. In this article, we’d go over the reparation process of an asphalt driveway with a hole in it.

✓ Get the necessary tools. You’re going to need a broom ( to clean the area), caulking gun ( to fill the hole), a hand tamp a plate compactor or a hammer ( to level the filled in hole) and a weeding glove (just in case there are weeds growing in the hole).

✓ Prepare the area. Do this by weeding the plants or weeds that might have grown inside the hole and identify your asphalt filler.

✓ Wet your soil, if necessary. It’s important to note that this is only necessary if your soil is dry to help the filler stick properly.

✓ Fill in deep holes. If the hole goes down about 3 to 4 inches or more, simply fill it with any material like rocks, clay etc.

✓ Apply the asphalt filler. Fill the hole with the asphalt filler to about half an inch higher than the surface of the driveway.

✓ Level the filler. For a large hole, make use of a plate compactor or a hand stamp, but a hammer will be sufficient for smaller holes.

✓ Cover the hole, if necessary. If your home isn’t level, covering your hole with a piece of plywood is advisable.

✓ Clean off the seal. After the asphalt looks done and in place, simply brush away the debris from the seal to finish off the project.