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Tiling a kitchen wall can seem like an easy task until you get started. Errors made will forever be evident for everyone to see unless you’re prepared to spend some extra bucks. When done right, it can actually be a very satisfying project, but don’t even think about rushing into it. If you lack a proper training or experience, it’s advisable to leave the task to a skilled professional for the best results and to avoid extra costs. This guide is meant to give you a detailed insight into the process and help you avoid possible errors.

• Preparation

✓ Ensure you have the required amount of tiles, adhesive and grout.

✓ Take the tiles measurement and calculate in square metres.

✓ Determine the number of tiles to be used and add about 10% to the total number to cover for possible wastage.

✓ Check to surface to make sure its clean and dry.

• Mark Out The Area To Be Tiled

✓ Mark out the width of the tiles with spacers using a baton of timber.

✓ Position a tile against the bottom-most point and draw a line.

✓ Put a baton along this line and follow this by a vertical line at the wall’s end.

• Install The Tiles On The Kitchen Walls

✓ Apply an even layer of adhesive with a wall trowel on the kitchen’s wall surface.

✓ Place the first tile on the adhesive and apply small pressure, do this for the remaining tiles with similar pressure to ensure its levelled.

✓ Make use of tile spacers to get a uniform space in between.

✓ Leave the adhesive to harden before applying the grout.

• Grouting

✓ Remove the tile space and clear out excess adhesive

✓ Prepare the grout

✓ Make use of a grout float to apply the mixture into the joints.

✓ Let the grout dry up a bit before washing the surface off with a sponge and water.

Do you have a busy household or a thriving business? When you have a carpeted stairs faced with a high traffic on a regular basis, you know its going to take quite a beating over time. As a result, the carpet tends to start looking tired and worn out almost immediately especially if it isn’t designed to withstand such an heavy usage. Hence, the importance of taking an extra little time when deciding on which new stair carpet or stair runners to purchase and install so as to identify those with sturdier properties which are designed to last and also durable. This way, regardless of the amount of traffic it faces on a regular basis, it’ll always stay looking smart and healthy with good maintenance efforts. In this post, we’re going to consider the best carpet for stairs with a high foot traffic. Let’s take a look!

When looking for a good carpet for a heavy traffic stairs, you need to be able to identify hard-wearing stair carpet runners most of which will be clearly labelled as such. These carpets are designed to handle a high level of footfalls primarily because of the way they’re manufactured and materials incorporated. These materials include sisal (one of the best materials to look out for when you’re shopping for a hard-wearing stair carpet) and polypropylene which is an extremely popular material used in hard-wearing carpets due to its incredible features.

Apart from the materials incorporated, a lot of the strength and resilience also comes from the way in which the fibres are constructed and woven. The most reliable types of carpet weaves to look out for when choosing a high traffic stair carpet runner includes flatweave, wilton weave as well as needlepunch.

If used and maintained properly, air conditioning can actually be a great way to create a healthier environment. As well as controlling the temperature, it also filters your air, removing pollutants like dust, pollen and mould particles.

However, to maximise these benefits, it’s important to keep your system clean. Dirty units and systems can become a health hazard, so always make sure you service your air conditioning at least once or twice a year.

During a boiler service, your boiler engineer will perform a series of checks to ensure that your boiler is safe and efficient. First, they will conduct a visual inspection to check for any corrosion or leaks. They will also check the flame in your boiler. They’ll then remove the boiler casing and check all the components, including the heat exchanger, burner and spark probe, then clean the inside. After this, they’ll check the flue for obstructions and ensure that it’s safely fitted. They will then do a gas pressure check to ensure the boiler is working at the right pressure, before firing it up to check for any working faults.

How Much Are Roof Tiles?

The way your roof looks speak volumes about your home or property. When you have an attractive roof installed, you give a huge impression of how beautiful the interior of your house is.

Roof tiles are the prefect roofing material if you wish to have your house looking elegant and decent. However, what turns off most homeowners about roof tiles is the belief that the prices are not budget friendly. This is absolutely false and in this article, we’re going to give you a rough estimate of the cost of roof tiles.

The price of roof tiles includes the cost of removing and getting rid of the old roofing materials, the cost of purchasing new roof tiles in the market as well as the cost of installing them on your house. There are a plethora of factors that affects the cost of roof tiles. These factors include the height and size of the roof, the roof’s design, the roof’s pitch, incidental costs of labour, the company hired as well as your location. What’s more? A roof with a complicated design such as hips and valleys will also generally cost more than simpler ones. Also, if you happen to reside in a place like London with higher cost of living and greater demand, the cost is also likely to be higher than other regions. As a result, providing an accurate cost of roof tiles is simply not possible.

Generally, the cost of having an entire roof retiled will cost within the range of £10,000 to about £20,000. For a more accurate estimate, you’ll have to identify reputable roofing professionals within your local area and find the roof tile prices that perfectly suits your budget.

What Size Of Oil Boiler Do I Need?

When it comes to oil boilers, there are three main types - the combi, system and conventional. Within these types, you’d discover there happens to be a wide range of sizes to choose from. First and foremost, we must note that the size has to do with the amount of energy they offer to your heating and hot water system rather than the physical dimensions.

The rule of thumb is, the larger your house (which implies the more hot taps, radiators and showers), the more powerful (bigger) the oil boiler you’d require. For instance, a four-bedroom apartment with three showers occupied by a family of four will definitely need a more powerful boiler than a a bungalow featuring a single occupant.

It is, however, important to also note that it’s not all about going for the biggest oil boiler. If you decide to choose an oil boiler with a much bigger capacity that needed, not only will you be wasting money on the initial purchase as well as installation, but also lose money operating it. And in a converse scenario, if you go for the cheaper and lower-powered oil boiler in an attempt to save up some money, you’re most likely to end up with tepid radiators while also frequently running out of hot water. Hence, the importance of determining the appropriate size of boiler for your particular household before purchase.

To determine the appropriate size, determining the number of bathrooms, radiators as well as the total number of people living in the property would be a step in the right direction.

Numbers of Radiators Combi System Boiler Regular

Up to 10 24 to 27kW 9 to 18kW 9 to 18kW

10 to 15 28 to 34kW 18 to 26kW 18 to 26kW

15 to 20 35 to 42kW 27 to 40kW 27 to 40kW

Once you have your new bathroom installed, or perhaps you’re only replacing the old downlights, you’d probably want to know how to go about fitting your new bathroom downlights. If yes, then you’re not alone! This is a very common question amongst several homeowners and we wish to guide you through once and for all. However, it must be said that if you are not a competent DIYer or probably lack the confidence or skills to pull this off, then it’s advisable to hire a professional to get the best results and also save yourself some money and time.

Here are the list of the tools you’ll need to fit your bathroom downlights: Tape measure, chalk line or laser, pencil, pad saw, hand drill, hole saw and screw drivers.

✓ Measure the bathroom ceiling and mark out the central point of the light which will be where the downlights will be placed. Drill a small pilot hole here.

✓ Check above the ceiling to ensure that there’s no pipes, joists or wires in the way. It’s always a good practice to make sure that there’s sufficient room around where the downlight is to be installed in order to avoid placing it too close to a joist or any other obstacle. You should try as much as possible to maintain a 6 inch gap around the spot where the downlight is placed to make sure the fitting does not overheat.

✓ Use a hole saw or a plasterboard saw to make the cut out for the downlight. Check the downlight’s box for instruction on the size.

✓ Once you’ve been able to make a clean cut ceiling hole, pull through the wiring through the hole so that the downlight can be wired. Once done, then you can fit the downlight into the hole by holding the two springs back against the sides of the downlighter and push up into the hole.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.