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Laying artificial grass is a popular project – it’s a great way to create a smart, low-maintenance garden. There are plenty of professionals around who are experts at installing artificial grass, but it’s possible to DIY too if you’re feeling confident.

Lots of homeowners choose to replace their existing turf with artificial grass, so lay it on soil. To do this, start by clearing the area of any greenery or turf. Then remove any extra soil to a depth of about 40mm. You might want to leave the centre of your area slightly higher than the edges for a more natural look.

Next, you need to add a weed membrane and a sharp sand sub-base. It doesn’t really matter which one of these you do first, but you might find it easier to lay the weed membrane first and then use the sand to weigh it down, to a depth of about 35mm. Use a rake and plank to make the sand level, and compact it with a plank and heavy hammer. It doesn’t need to be completely flat – gentle slopes are fine. The weed membrane should overlap joints by 300mm.

After you’ve done this, you can lay your grass. Roll it out, trim it to size and fasten it in place. Make sure the ends of the grass rolls are staggered so they don’t end in a line. Lay the artificial grass with the pile (the strands) leaning towards the house so it looks nice and full when you’re looking out from the house. If you’ve decided to use edging boards, you can nail the grass into the tops of the boards. Or, if you haven’t, use ground pins to anchor it into the soil. Brush the grass and you’re done!

Air source heat pumps can be a really efficient way to generate heat. Although they require electricity to run, they generate much more heat than an electric heater that uses the same amount.

Air source heat pumps provide heat at a lower temperature than most other types of space heating. This means they’re most efficient when they’re left on for longer periods of time, and distribute heat through wet heating systems with large surface areas, like underfloor heating or big radiators.

Air source heat pumps can be much more efficient than oil and LPG boilers, and older electric heating systems. However, they’re only usually the most efficient option if your property is very well insulated.

When it comes to fence ownership and responsibility, this is often a subject of dispute between neighbours and understandably so. Owning a fence comes with a number of responsibilities such as arranging and paying for the maintenance and more. Therefore, if you’re not yet sure who owns the garden fence, then you’d probably want to have that sorted to make sure your property stays protected at all times. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into some of the rules guiding fence ownership in order to help you make informed decisions. Let’s take a look!

There’s no rule of thumb on whether you own the fence on the right hand or the left hand side of your property. Therefore, if you’ve heard any “rules that states otherwise, you can fling that out the window because not everyone will own the left hand side to their fence. The first way to determine who owns the garden fence or which side of the fence you’re responsible for is simply by looking. Although this is not guaranteed or a definite way to determine ownership, it can go a long way to give you a good idea. As you would have expected, fences are most likely built on the land that belongs to the boundary’s owner with the further edge of the fence making the actual boundary. As a result, you can determine a fence ownership simply by identifying where the frames are.

Also, you can determine fence ownership using the title deeds for an official and accurate answer. A copy should be given alongside your paperwork which is received when purchasing your house.

This is definitely one of the questions that first comes to mind when considering to acquire a skip for either residential or commercial waste disposal purposes. The cost of a skip is dependent on so many factors but the most significant determinants would be the volume of the waste and type/size of the skip you require.

Once you are able to identify the most suitable skip size for the volume of waste or rubbish for disposal at your premises, estimating the cost would be a lot easier. Here, we’ll give you an insight into skip sizes and the amount of waste each skip type can hold at a go.

Skip Types

• Mini Skip

This is also referred to as a 4 yard skip which is the smallest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 40 and 45 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £90 to £130 for a week’s hire.

• Medium Skip

The 8 yard skip is the most common and has the capacity to hold within a range of 80 to 90 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £200 to £250 for a week’s hire.

• Large Skip

The 12 yard skip is the largest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 125 to 135 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £250 to £340 for a week’s hire outside London. However, it can be a little bit more expensive in the capital - about £350 to £390 for the same amount of time.

It must, however, be taken into account that the cost of a skip also depends on other factors such as your location, the skip hire company, the volume of waste and lots more. Click here to learn more about skip prices.

In recent times, when about to purchase or renovate a building that was constructed before the 1980’s, most homeowners will be particular about knowing whether or not asbestos containing materials are present. Also when a property is being checked, a lot of individuals would want to know the peak years for asbestos to be used in homes.

Modern asbestos production started in the 1800s during the time of industrial revolution, but after some regulation were made to ban some asbestos products and uses in the late 1970’s, the production witnessed a significant drop. The United States was the foremost users of asbestos according to the USGS but this lasted until the 1960’s when it was overtaken by the Soviet Union. In this article, we’ll look at the years of use for asbestos containing materials like pipe insulation, vermiculite as well as wall systems.

✓ Insulation. Asbestos insulation was commonly used in homes with lots of focus on both piping and ductwork. This was started in the year 1908 but was ended between 1915 and 1920 by Air-Cell pipe insulation.

✓ Vermiculite. This refers to a mineral that’s popular for its insulating properties and mostly used as insulation for attics. It possesses a gold to brown kind of appearance and it’s also a pebble material that shimmers in the light. According to the EPA, if this material is suspected in a home it should be assumed to contain asbestos.

✓ Wall Systems. Plaster and drywall are very common wall types that are asbestos containing. And until asbestos was banned both wall systems are said to have asbestos. For example the drywall sheets as well as it’s joint compound both features asbestos from the 1930s to the 1980s.

In a similar way to other major home improvement projects, some specific requirements must be met to allow for the installation of solar panels. The main reason why these standards and regulations were established is to minimize the risk of the solar system becoming an issue or potential hazard in the unforeseeable future. So if you’re thinking about buying and fitting new solar panels, you’ll probably want to know whether or not you’ll require to submit a planning permission application for approval before you can proceed.

Generally, solar panels are covered under what’s called “Permitted Development” which gives you the freedom to install your solar panels without having to apply for a planning permission. However, there are some exceptions to this rule. These exceptions include if your house is a listed building or if your house is located within a conservation area. In these exceptional cases, it’s possible that you’ll need to apply for a planning permission, but this will largely depend on the discretion of your Local Planning Authority. What’s more? Solar panels are usually subjected to normal building regulations which includes examining the roof to make sure that it can support the additional weight. You can call in a MCS certified installer to carry out this check for you.

In order to install your solar PV on your roof, you must follow these guidelines:

✓ Your solar panels shouldn’t go beyond the highest point of the roof (excluding chimneys).

✓ The solar panels shouldn’t project beyond 200mm off the roof’s edge.

✓ The solar panels should be removed once they’re no longer used to produce electricity

✓ The solar panels should be installed such that the area and building’s appearance change is minimized.

The cost for a sun tunnel is affected by 5 key factors:

1. Tube size: Small areas or stairways can gain from a 10-inch size tube, whilst bigger rooms will require a bigger tube. The higher television size, the greater the price.
2. Kind of tunnel and also roof type: You can pick from stiff or flexible tunnels and also domed or flat roofing system panels. Each choice will have a different price.
3. Place: Where you stay in the country will certainly impact the price of your sun tunnel installation. Generally, the higher the living prices in your location, the greater the price of employing an expert will certainly be.
4. Length of the tunnel: Longer tunnels will be charged at a greater price than their shorter equivalents so whether the tunnel runs from the roof to the 2nd or very first flooring will certainly impact the sun tunnel price.
5. Ease of gain access to: Flexible tubes are fantastic for homes where sun tunnels do not run in a straight line from roofing to ceiling. The tubes can then be fitted around challenges in your loft space. Frustratingly, these alternatives do not allow as much light as stiff tubes and also due to their hard setup can be much more expensive.

How To Tile Conservatory Roof

If you’re thinking about replacing your old conservatory roof with a tiled one, you’d probably want to know how you can go about it. Tiling of a conservatory roof comes with a plethora of benefits with the most significant one being a much improved insulation which helps you save money on heating bills. This activity is also, however, a task that is best done by a professional. It requires working at height which can be very dangerous and also demands a particular set of skills as well as confidence to make the project a safe and successful one. In other words, if you lack any of the aforementioned attributes, then we’d strongly recommend that you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this article, we’ll walk you through the conservatory roof tiling process.

✓ Remove the existing roof. As you would have guessed, the first step is to remove the old existing roof and dispose off in an environmental friendly way.

✓ Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP) rafters are fitted so as to develop the structural frame for the new solid roof.

✓ Waterproofing. The next step is to add 100% waterproof sheets under the GRP rafters.

✓ Insulation. Once the waterproof sheets have been installed, it’s then time to fit the insulation boards making sure that there’s a 15mm gap between the boards and the waterproof sheets.

✓ Outer sheets. To minimize the number of roofing bars and increase the conservatory’s efficiency, you’ll have to include the outer sheets at this stage.

✓ Tiling. This is the final step in the process. Add the tiles to the conservatory roof and make sure that they’re firmly secured. This wouldn’t take forever as most conservatories are not that big in size.