Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Lochgelly.

If you’re interested in getting a new air source heat pump, then you’d probably want to know if they’re really advantageous, cost effective and efficient. The fact is, there are a plethora of benefits that comes with using heat pumps which is a renewable alternative to warm up your home in the UK.

An air source heat pump can help you save money on energy bills while also minimizing your carbon footprint as compared to a gas or electric heating system. Another important benefit that comes with air source heat pump is the fact that they’re quire versatile and yet affordable. Generally, they can function either for heating or cooling purposes and they can also be incorporated for either heating of space or water. In fact, in order to achieve the target Net Zero by 2050, the UK government are looking to fit 19 million heat pumps in new builds. With significant rise in the deployment of heat pumps, the grants by the UK government enables this renewable energy source to become a lot more affordable to run while also helping to minimize the burden of the air source heat pump cost.

As perfect as it seems, this renewable source of energy also comes with a number of disadvantage which we’re going to list out. Let’s take a look!

• There must be sufficient space in your garden to accommodate the external condenser unit.
• The condenser unit can make a lot of noise and even blow colder air into their immediate area.
• Since they consume electricity to operate, this also means they’re not zero carbon unless the electricity is produced from a renewable source like solar panels etc.

Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.

If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!

For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.

In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.

If you’d like to hire a commercial architect, but have a limited budget, there are a few options you could try.

Firstly, if you’re happy to manage the project yourself, you could just engage your architect to create the designs and technical plans. It will then be up to your builder and any other contractors to follow them. You’ll need to put some serious time and effort in to make sure that this goes smoothly, but it will reduce how much you’ll need to pay your architect.

You could also consider reducing the scope of your project. Many architects charge a percentage of your project’s total construction cost, so if you scale down the work then their fees will be lower. Alternatively, you may be able to negotiate a set fee if you want to guarantee that you won’t pay more than a certain amount.

How To Clean Algae Off Roof Shingles

Stains and dirt on asphalt shingles can only make your entire house look shabby which can go a long way to hide away the true value of your building. In some cases, dirts and stains on asphalt roofing shingles are nothing more than a cosmetic issue. However, there are also times in which it goes far beyond this - when the stains are indicators of a problem that if ignored, can result in a serious roof damage and ultimately, roof failure. In most cases, it’s usually hard to distinguish these stains and hence, the more reason why your asphalt roofing shingles should be regularly cleaned and maintained. In this article, we’re going to look at how you can get rid of algae of your roof shingles.

Algae growth on roof usually have either blue, green or black stains. They normally begin with little spots which will develop into streaks overtime. These stains are mostly mistaken for moss or mildew and aren’t harmful to any other thing than the roof shingles. However, the look it gives the entire house is something nobody enjoys.

It should be noted that this is a task that deals with working at height and requires skills and confidence to pull off. If you lack any of these qualities, simply reach out to a professional for help.

✓ Safety first. Put on protective clothing.

✓ Apply a bleach solution with a garden sprayer and let it sit for up to 20 minutes

✓ Rinse the roof thereafter with the stream from the hose (do not use a pressure washer as it can damage the roof shingles)

✓ If there are still algae left after rinsing with water, you can make use of a brush with medium-stiff bristles to gently scrub the stains off. If some stains are still left, simply let the roof dry before repeating the process again.

Is your garage door a bit old and outdated? Are you planning to make some renovations? Or perhaps you just want a newer and more stylish garage door, that’s safer and easier to operate, installed. Fitting a garage door can be a bit tricky but it’s not as difficult as you might think. If you’re without proper training or experience, it’s advisable to get in touch with a reliable professional for help in order to guarantee the best results while also saving you both time and money. This guide offers you step by step instructions to assist you in the installation of a new door on our garage.

To get started, the obvious first step is to remove the old garage door. Carefully go through the manufacturer’s instructions to achieve this. Here, you’d basically have to unlatch the door, take apart the door’s panel and unscrew the tracks.

lMeasure, Fit The Hinges & Handles

• Take a measurement of the area in which the door will be fitted

• From the top of opening to ceiling should include a space of about 10 to 12.

• For the length of the garage, you should have the door’s height with about 18 or more space.

• Once done, attach stops to the sides of the opening

• Lay out the bottom piece of the door and include the weather stripping (if you deem fit) using the sawhorses.

lPut The Bottom Piece In Position

• Fit the bottom piece into door frame using a level

• Hit nails partway into each jamb

• Bend the nails slight to secure their position.

• Assemble the vertical, curved and horizontal pieces of the track using the manufacturer’s instruction

lFit The Remaining Panels

• Put the second panel on the first panel

• Use a hammer to hit nails into it

• Fit the hinges.

• Repeat the process for the number of panels required and achor individual piece into the door jamb.

lInstall Rollers

• Fit the rollers in the section’s supports

• Put the rollers in the assembled track and make sure they’re not pressed to tightly against the track to prevent friction.

lSecure Tracks & Fit The Springs

• Fit the curved and horizontal pieces

• Assemble the springs following the manufacturer’s instructions

• Ensure that the tracks are level and parallel by lifting the door to about half length

• Lift the door to cover the distance left and fit the springs to the pulley system

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d want to try out on your bathroom without some practices.  For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

1. Make Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor
   Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.
2. Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.
3. Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.
4. Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.
5. Cut The Tiles
6. Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.
7. Choose The Appropriate Adhesive
8. To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer. If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar
9. Prepare The Area
10. Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.
11. Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.
12. Space The Tiles
    Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.
13. If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.
14. Use The Right Grout
15. With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.
16. The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.
17. Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.

Having a security gate installed on your property brings about a lot of benefits. However, to ensure these benefits are maximized, it’s important to make sure the gates are properly installed. The installation can be made a DIY task or professionally installed. If you wish to install your security gates by yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take you through the processes involved in the installation of a security gate. Let’s take a look!

1. Go through the instructions carefully to get the best out of your installation and also a good understanding.
2. Dig holes for the posts. Don’t make holes round to make sure the posts do not turn or twist.
3. Get rid of any obstructions like uneven ground, rocks or any other obstacles that may impact the free opening of the gate.
4. Re-confirm the distance between the two poles to make sure that the gate can hang perfectly between them.
5. Get an adjustable hinge. Adjustable hinge will allow for extra customization while also enabling improved correction of errors.
6. Make sure that the measurement taken leaves sufficient space for vehicles such as emergency vehicles and package delivery trucks when opened.
7. If you have a fence that’ll be connected to the gate, you should install the gate at the back of the fencing pillars. If you later decide to automate the security gate, this will prove to be a smart move as it enables a free and unhindered function.
8. Make sure you go through the local laws before installation.

Not if your current aerial is in good condition and receives a good signal. If you don’t currently get a good signal, you may need to upgrade or relocate your aerial to receive HD channels or if your TV is not HD ready. You may need to upgrade your television if this is the case.