Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Queensferry.

Home renovations are an incredible way not only to beautify and add value to your home, but also to breathe fresh life as well as energy into your living space. If you’re currently wondering what room to renovate within your home, you may want to consider the bathroom. Not only is this a room that’s subjected to everyday use, but also has to deal with water attacks on a regular basis.

It’s a place where you groom, relax, cleanse and shower, meaning a lot of time is usually spent in this relatively small room. So if you’re planning to renovate your bathroom, one of the most frequently asked questions is, “how much it’ll cost to fit a new bathroom?. Of course like many other home improvement efforts, the cost of fitting a bathroom is largely dependent on the materials to be used as well as the size of the bathroom, whereas the cost of installation may be a lot less than you would’ve guessed. In this simple guide, you’ll get all what you need to understand the average cost of fitting a bathroom and to develop a good estimate for your project as well.

Generally, professional bathroom fitter will charge varying amounts based on the material that’s to be fitted. For instance, small projects that only involves installing a new basin can cost within a range of £70 to £120, whereas larger projects which involves tiling a big bathroom cam cost within the range of £800 to £1,200. Overall, the average cost of fitting a new bathroom will range between £4,200 to £4,800. you can, however, save some money by shopping smart as well as comparing the prices.

If you’re building a connected home, a smart thermostat allows you to change the temperature in your home. And not only do several smart thermostats come with touch screens and a user friendly interface, but they’re also compatible with Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant and other voice controlled personal assistants. So how does a smart thermostat work? Let’s have a look!

Generally, smart thermostats are connected to the home’s Heating and/or Air Con system via C wire (common wire). Homes that lacks a C wire (especially older homes) will have to install one first before getting a smart thermostat. The C wire is a crucial element in the installation process as it works mainly to wire your smart thermostats into the Boiler system without tampering with the wiring for the other appliances in the house.

The smart thermostats comes with some special temperature setting which you can access by connecting them to your home’s WiFi. These include:

• Mobile Control

Most smart thermostats are specially designed to enable users to control the temperature of their home from the comfort of their couch or car via their unique mobile apps. This feature is just perfect if you particularly like getting the perfect temperature in your home without having to get out of bed.

• Humidity Controls

Although, the humidity of your home can not really be adjusted with a smart thermostat but you can always stay on top of it by monitoring it or setting an alarm on your phone to go off when the humidity changes.

• Geofencing Feature

With a smart thermostat, you can choose the particular times of the day you want it in action. This feature enables you to go on impromptu travels without having to worry about your energy bills - some smart thermostats come with the geotracking feature which determines when you’ve left the house and adjusts the temperature of the home accordingly with your energy usage in mind.

There are a few visible signs of damp, although it often goes undetected. However, in older or empty properties, this made become detectable through its smell. These include peeling paint and wallpaper, crumbling plaster, mould growth, black spots or spores on walls and ceilings, and rotting skirting boards and flooring.

Have you being considering the options available to you for removing the conifers around your home? Or perhaps you’re just planning to raise some structures in an area where you have lots of conifer trees. Regardless of your reason for wanting to remove a conifer tree, you’ve come to the right place!

There are multiple options to remove a conifer tree based on the one that best suits your needs. Some individuals are okay with felling the tree and leaving the stumps behind, while others don’t just want both the tree and the stumps so they poison the tree and subject the stumps to a quick rotting process.

lThe Physical Method

This basically involves felling the trees with the help of powerful machines and other tools. Let’s take a look!

• Early preparation. Get your chainsaw ready alongside your pruning tools as well as other equipments that can prove to be useful.

• Determine the direction you want the tree to fall. You must ensure there’s no passerby risk or risk of damage to any property whatsoever.

• Cut down the trunk. Put your chainsaw to use. First cut doen the branches and twigs before felling the tree.

• Choose your cutting technique depending on the tree’s size, slope and chainsaw available.

• Check for possible infestation before removing the conifer tree.

• Remove the conifer stumps by grinding the stumps out (use a grinder) and setting fire to consume the stumps.

lThe Chemical Method

To carry out this process, you need to first cut down the large tree branches using a chainsaw. Once done, cut off a portion around the circumference of the trunk below the lower branches, close to the root. Leave the bark’s strips connected to the conifer tree to expose the inner tissue.

Mix the chemicals and apply into the conifer tree directly until the whole surface is covered. This will make the conifer tree to die off gradually for a couple of weeks.

With cavity walls being very similar to other type of brick works, it can be quite confusing to figure out the type of wall your property possesses. If your house was constructed after the 1920s, then its highly likely the you have cavity walls, while older houses (houses before the 1920s) are likely to have solid walls. What’s more? If you happen to own a home that was built in the last decade, then it’s very possible that it was built with insulation installed during construction.

An effective way to determine whether or not your property is built with cavity wall is to examine the brickwork on your home’s exterior. The bricks will typically possess a regular pattern if it features cavity walls. In the event whereby the brick work is covered by render, you can also figure it out by taking a measurement of the wall’s width. If the brick wall is beyond 3000mm in thickness ( from the exterior wall to the interior wall), then it probably features a cavity. Meanwhile, a wall that’s narrower is very likely to be solid. Stone walls, on the other hand, may actually be thicker but are most times solid.

In a situation whereby your house is built using steel frame or timber frame, or made using pre-fabricated concrete, there are varying rules that applies when it comes to insulation and should be examined by an expert before any insulation is installed. More often than not, most contractors will have installed special air vents, which can also be a good indicator that a cavity wall insulation has been done.

Check your Price's door installation cost calculator and charges guide will allow you to estimate both typical labours only costs for door hanging & installations, renovations and repairs as well as the total estimate for comprehensive door installation projects.

• Door & Frame Installation Job and the average Cost in £'s

• uPVC door installation including glazing & architrave costs around £90 per door

• uPVC french & patio door sets including glazing & architrave costs around £120 per pair

• Softwood french & patio door sets including architrave costs around £180 per door

• Hardwood french & patio door sets including architrave would cost around £250 per pair

• Softwood internal door hanging only would be around £40 per door

• Hardwood internal door hanging only would set you back around £48 per door

• Softwood external door hanging only is around £60 per door

• Hardwood external door hanging would cost around £70 per door

• Locks, letterboxes & door furniture timber doors are around £15 per Item

• Glazing £15 per pane

• Brick cut-outs single doors is around £60 per cut-out

• French or patio door brick cut-outs will be around £90 per cut-out

• New lintels will cost around £150 per lintel

Door Repair Costs and Charges

Estimate door mending labour charges by totalling the unit costs of the mandatory jobs. The complete door repair cost includes the total labour charge plus the cost of all parts, fixtures and fittings. A call out charge may be added on jobs totalling less than £100.

Average Cost of Door Repair Job

Replacement glazing units for uPVC doors will be around £15 per unit

Replacement glazing units for timber doors is around £20 per unit

Replacement door glass pined & putty will cost£30 per pane

Replacement handles are around £10 each and general repair work will cost you £25 per hour

Building & FENSA certificate charges

FENSA certificates are obligatory for maximum door replacements and new build setting up prices differ from council to council.

Average Cost of Window Repair Job: One to two doors will cost around £85

Average Cost of Door Fixtures & Fittings Removal Job

Removing internal doors will cost around £10

Removing internal door liners will cost around £15

Removing external timber doors will cost about £10

Removing External timber door frame will be around £20

Removing external uPVC door & frame removal will be around £30 and Rubbish disposal will cost £150 per ton.

Removing a double glazed window can be quite labour intensive. If you decide to try it yourself, make sure you give yourself plenty of time, and wear gloves and goggles.

Begin by unscrewing all opening windows at the hinges and removing them. Then take away the beading and putty around any fixed panes and take them out too.

Once you’ve removed all the glass, use a saw to put angled cuts in the frame, and a bar and hammer to remove it in sections. You should remove the sill if you’re going to replace that too.

Finally, cut through any screws holding the frame into place with a hacksaw.

How long your solar panels will last depends on their age and quality. Most modern solar panels have 20-30 year warranties, but this doesn’t mean that they’ll stop working at this point. Many will stay at a good efficiency level for up to 40 years, while others will start to decline earlier.