Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Cinderford.

You should inspect your roof at least once a year, to check there are no leaks or infestations. It’s best to do this just after it has rained, so leaks are as obvious as possible. You may find over a period of time there is a build up of moss on the roof, this should be cleaned so rain water has a clear path to the guttering.

A Velux window is a brand of roof window, but the brand is so popular that people often use the name to describe the entire type of window. They are windows that are installed at the same orientation and ‘in plane’ with the surrounding roof, and they’re usually installed at a minimum of a 15-degree pitch. You can buy roof windows that offer completely frameless internal views for a really clean look in your loft conversion, while some come with built-in shutters.

Velux windows aren’t to be confused with rooflights which usually refers to a glazed unit that’s installed on a flat roof. It might also mean a window that’s been installed on a pitched roof out of plane with the level of the tiling.

People also confuse roof windows with skylights, which normally can’t be opened or closed and are usually smaller than Velux windows. Skylights, therefore, only let daylight into the room whereas roof windows also help with ventilation.

If you’re using your loft as a room in your home rather than simply for storage, you must have a roof window installed. Skylights won’t be enough as they don’t allow for ventilation. It doesn’t have to be a Velux window – it can be any type of roof window. Luckily, they tend to come in standard sizes and they must be CE marked if they’re sold as a roof window, so they should be easy to find.

Scaffolding, also known as scaffold or staging, is an impermanent construction used to provide sustenance to a work crew and materials to help in the erection, upkeep and mending of structures, bridges and all other man-made constructions. Scaffolds are extensively used on site to get access to altitudes and parts that would be otherwise hard to get to. Hazardous scaffolding has the potential to result in demise or serious accidents. Another major use of scaffolding is in modified methods for formwork and shoring, concert stages, grandstand seating, access/viewing towers, ski ramps and art projects.

There are five main types of scaffolding today. These are Tube and Coupler (fitting) components, manufactured segmental system scaffold apparatuses, H-frame / facade modular system scaffolds, timber scaffolds and bamboo scaffolds.

Each type is made from numerous components which every so often include:

• A base plate or jack: It acts as the scaffold’s load-bearing base.

• The upright component with its connector joins.

• The ledger: The horizontal brace.

• The transom: It is a horizontal load-bearing component which helps to hold the batten or the decking unit.

• The brace diagonal.

• Cross-section bracing component

• The batten or the board decking component: On which the working platform is made.

• The coupler: A fitting which joins components together.

• The scaffold tie: It is used to tie in the scaffold to structures.

• The Brackets: It is used to extend the width of working platforms.

Particular machinery used to support in their usage as a provisional edifice often comprises of heavy-duty weight-bearing transoms, ladders or stairway units for the ingress and egress of the scaffold, beams ladder/unit types used to span obstacles and rubbish chutes used to eliminate undesirable constituents from the scaffold or construction development.

The European Standard, BS EN 12811-1, stipulates performance necessities and procedures of physical and universal design for access and working scaffolds. Requirements specified are for scaffold constructions that depend on the adjacent erections for steadiness.

Aluminium windows have a range of benefits that make them a great alternative to uPVC windows. Developments in technology have meant that modern aluminium windows now have the same energy efficiency levels as uPVC. Plus, their strength and flexibility make them a more attractive choice to many homeowners, particularly for more modern buildings.

Aluminium frames are typically much thinner than uPVC frames, allowing more light in and wider views. The metal can also be moulded to suit custom shapes, making it ideal for unusually shaped windows. Aluminium windows are available in lots of different colours, so can be designed to suit a wide range of interiors and exteriors.

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

How To Put Up Plasterboard

Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.

Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.

• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.

• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.

If your old kitchen is due for an upgrade, one of the first things that comes to is the potential cost of a getting replacement. In this post, we’re going to consider the amount a new kitchen is expected to cost. Let’s take a look!

Generally, fitted kitchen prices can be extremely high and even a budget project can cost huge bucks. In addition, you’re even likely to pay more if you’re interesting in getting a designer brand and shiny appliances. So how much will a new kitchen? Well, there’s no simple and direct answer to this question as there are a number of factors that play a major part in the determination of the price. These factors include the shape of the kitchen, the most preferred layout as well as the kitchen’s size.

On the average, a new kitchen will normally be around £8000. You should however note that this price is fitting and VAT inclusive, but excludes appliances and any preparation works that may or may not be required such as plastering walls, removing wallpaper as well as ripping out the old kitchen.

If you wish to keep the costs down, then you might want to set a budget before you start shopping for a new kitchen, know your most preferred kitchen and remove the old kitchen yourself. A good example of DIY effort which can go a long way to save and even make you some bucks is taking out the old cabinets by yourself and selling them off. You’d be amazed that there’ll people who are willing to pay £20 or more for a couple of old cupboards.

Central air conditioning system is a system which operates by cooling air at a central place and distributes the cooled air to and from rooms with the help of one or more fans and ductwork. What makes the whole idea of air conditioning feasible is the operations of the air conditioner compressor. When it cooling gas is compressed, it allows it to absorb heat from the house and blows it outside into the outside air and that’s exactly how the cool air is being generated.

Central air conditioning are of two main types which includes a split system as well as a packaged unit.

Generally, in the split system AC unit, both the condenser and compressor are included in the outdoor metal cabinet, whereas the indoor cabinet includes the evaporator. Typically, in several split system air conditioning units, the indoor cabinet will also include an air handler or a furnace. What’s more? The evaporator coil of the AC unit is fitted in the cabinet or the furnace or heat pump’s primary supply duct. This type of central air condition is usually the most economical AC unit to fit if you already have a furnace in your home.

However, in a packaged central air conditioning system, the components including condenser, compressor and evaporator are all included in one cabinet. Supply of air as well as the return ducts are connected through the home’s exterior wall or roof to the package central air conditioning system - mostly placed outdoors. This type of central air conditioners also features electric heating oil or a natural gas furnace. With this perfect blend of central heater with air conditioner, there’s simply no need to a separate furnace indoors.