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Getting its name from it’s original use and commonly mistaken for conservatories, orangeries were developed about four hundred years ago to help protect citrus fruits from the winter frosts. An orangery is basically a room extension featuring a flat perimeter roof, brick base as well as a central roof lantern including doors and windows. Even though it originates from Italy and made more modern by Holland’s architectural development, orangeries have grown to become an ubiquitous phenomenon within the British society with thousands of the extension being built every year. They’re built in a similar way to conservatories, however, orangeries are typically developed from a brick base and usually making use of a stone or brick pillars to provide support to a flat roof perimeter. Also, the common choice for an orangery is a central roof lantern including glass panels or vent windows. Unlike conservatories which usually make use of patio doors, orangeries are more likely to have more complex bi-folding door system - enhancing the visual appeal of the extension in a more unique and stylish way.

Orangeries typically incorporates less glass when compared to a conservatory - thereby, allowing a moderate amount of natural light into the space. This way, you would not have to go outdoors to enjoy the sunlight during the summer months. Generally, the extension also offers a atrium-style ceiling height while also protecting your space from excessive sunlight and adding character to your home.

In conclusion, orangeries are an excellent choice when it comes to extending your home - be it to make a room larger or adding a new room all together. Ultimately, they go a long way to add incredible value to your home for resale purposes. Orangeries are best installed by seasoned professionals in order to ensure the best outcome.

Having ventilation in the roof void is a requirement for building regulations approval. Fitting ventilated soffits is the typical way that this roof ventilation is achieved. If you do not have roof ventilation, you may find that your roof void has problems with condensation or overheating.

In general, a new bathroom will take 1-2 weeks to install. This will vary depending on the size of the bathroom and the range of new units. Tiling and installing underfloor heating will make this time significantly longer. Also factor in redecoration, flooring and potentional ventilation.

Properly erected fences shouldn’t require a great deal of maintenance. Any rotting boards can usually be replaced without replacing the whole panel. Timber fencing should be stained every 2-3 years. General maintenance is something you can carry out yourself, however, larger works may need a qualified professional to come in.

If your fuse box keeps tripping or blowing fuses, it may need replacing. Other signs that your fuse box is not working properly include humming, sparking and lack of power. Contact an electrician and ask for a safety report, this will diagnose the problem and lead to a quick fix.

Cement is a crucial element in bricklaying that’s widely used in both construction as well as finishing works. Generally, they’re used to aerate concrete blocks, connect bricks, prepare plaster, floor levelling as well as the making of precast products. The major reason cement is one of the most common construction materials as its incredible ability to hold structure together. To get a cement plaster, you’d simply have to mix cement with both water and sand. However, when you mix cement with lime, sand and water, you’ll get a mortar.

For cements mortars to be used inside joints, you’ll have to include 1 part cement at the minimum to not more than 2 parts sand by weight which should be dry mixed and moistened with enough water to allow for troweling and packing without falling apart. Generally, the cement sand ratio in a mortar is in between 1:2 to 1:6. The cement and sand mix ratio is largely based on the importance of the project.

Cement provides a plethora of uses in bricklaying and these includes:

• Preparation of cement concrete

• Preparation of cement mortar

• Building fireproof and thermal proof structures

• Building chemical proof structures

• Serving as a grout material

• Building hydrographic and frost resistant structures

• Manufacturing precast members

• Constructing aesthetic concrete

• Constructing cement concrete roads

There are several types of cements with each having its specific purpose. For instance, the type of cement more suited to building a fire proof structure is a high alumnia cement and to build a hydrographic structure, cements like expanding cement, hydrophobic cement, pozzolana cement and quick setting cement are the best bet. Acid resistant cements are more useful in building chemical proof structures, portland cements are best suited to making grout materials, while coloured cements are preferable to building aesthetic structures.

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.