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The best way to go about converting a basement depends on its current condition and what you’d like to use it for.

If you’re happy with its size and structure, and just want to turn it into useful storage space, then your project shouldn’t be too complicated. You’ll simply need to make sure it’s damp proof and waterproof – either by fitting tanking or a cavity drain membrane with a sump and pump. You may also need to invest in new flooring, fit basic lighting, and plaster and paint the walls and ceiling.

If you’d like to turn your basement into living space, then you’ll need to think about ventilation, insulation and heating. If this involves creating a kitchen or bathroom, you’ll also need to incorporate plumbing.

If you want to extend your basement, add lightwells, or fit windows and a sunken garden, this makes things much more complicated. You’ll probably want to hire an architect or basement conversion building specialist to help you with the design and planning, and you’ll need a structural engineer to help you ensure your property is sufficiently supported.

If you want to install an external wall, it is only wise to consider whether or not a planning permission is required in order to avoid a hefty fine. In a great kudos to the government and a welcome relief to home and property owners, the installation of external wall insulation is seen as an “improvement to the house and not an “extension or an “enlargement. Ultimately, this implies that external wall insulation fitting is to be done under permitted development and a planning application may not be required. However, like many other regulations, there are also exceptions to this rule and the main one is if the activity changes the appearance of your property. Properties such as a listed building having tighter regulations may pose some issues. As a result, we’d advise you to consult your local authority to ensure that there’s no fast rule to this topic before commencement of the external wall insulation project.

At the moment, according to the Government Building Regulations, the surface of the entire wall is to be improved to existing standards if the area to be insulated exceeds 25 percent of the wall. In normal situations this is usually the typical case, however to prevent avoidable fines and other possible punishments, it is always best to reach to your local authority and check out the rules guiding external wall insulation in your constituency. Furthermore, since external wall insulation is not a task that’s recommended to be done by yourself, you can also ask the professional external wall insulation fitting company for the applying rules before proceeding. As a good professional, the company should have a better knowledge of the rules and regulation guiding its activities.

How To Install A Septic Tank

If you’re planning to get a new septic tank system or replace the existing one, you’d probably want to know if it’s a task you can do all by yourself especially if you happen to be a competent DIYer. However, unless you’re a heavy equipment operator, installation of a septic tank system is by no means a DIY project. And even if you have the heavy machine at your disposal and you know quite well how to use it, you’re still going to need the guidance of professionals.

You’re going to need the services of a soil expert to evaluate the site, a plumbing contractor to fit and connect pipes, an engineer to design a good system and more. You may want to be involved in all these but local health authorities requires that a licensed personnel should be in charge. In this article, however, you’ll discover the septic tank system installation process.

To install a traditional septic tank system, you’ll have to start by digging a hole for the tank following strictly the instructions provided on your approved plan by the local authorities. Do not drop the tank into the hole after digging, you’ll need to connect it to the building sewer with 3 or 4 inch waste pipe which should be at a minimum slope towards the tank. Then, extend a drain pipe from the other end of a tank to a the distribution box on the drain field.

Once completed, dig several parallel trenches of this box extension across the drain field. Put in a layer of gravel along with 3 to 4 inch perforated pipes in individual trench and connect the pipes with the distribution box and cover them once done.

As an environmentally conscious homeowner, it’s very likely you would have heard of a wood pellet boiler or maybe even considering fitting one in your home or property. So if you’ve heard about wood pellet boilers, you’d probably want to know about it especially how it works. In this article, we’re going to walk you through the wood pellet boilers operating process. Let’s take a look!

✓ Typically, wood pellet boilers possess 4 major components, these includes a burner ( which ignites or burns the pellets), a hopper ( which stores unused pellets), a conveyor ( which works to carry the pellets from the hopper to the burner where its ignited) and lastly, a controller ( which responds automatically to your thermostat and appliances’ demands).

✓ In the event whereby your thermostat demands heat or if you happen to switch on a hot water tap or appliance, pellets will be automatically fed into the burner which in turn ignites it and set the firing rate to match the needed heating load.

✓ In a situation whereby more pellets is needed by your boiler, the vacuum or augur system will act by pulling pellets from your bulk pellet storage bin and automatically refill itself.

✓ The wood pellet boiler will clean the burn pot and heat exchanger areas ( moving ash into the ash bin), during and after the burn cycles. The ash bin will be emptied once for every 2 to 3 ton of pellet that’s ignited.

Other facts about wood pellet boilers

✓ The wood pellet boiler can be directly linked to existing plumbing and heating system, regardless of whether or not there’s an existing heating oil boiler remaining.

✓ Wood pellets can be stored in bulk in a storage bin outside your home as the bins are generally weather resistant and also very durable.

Are you interested in opening up the back of your home during the summer months? Or perhaps you’re just looking for a cool way to beautify your home and add more value to it. Patio doors offer you a great means to achieve your goals and even more so, with a plethora of styles you can choose from. So if you’ve decided to to install patio doors in your home, you’d probably also want to know exactly how much they cost so you can set a budget and start planning.

Generally, depending on the type of patio doors you wish to have installed, be it bifold, French or sliding doors, the price can vary within the range of £400 to £5,000.

There are a number of influencing factors that can play a huge role in the determination of the total cost of patio doors when looking to have them installed. These factors include: the type of patio door, choice of material, size of the door as well as double or triple gazing.

Based on the type of patio door, the cost of various patio door styles are given below:

• Bifold Patio Doors

The cost of bifold doors is usually affected by the material as well as number of panels to be used. The potential cost is usually within the range of £1,200 to £3,000 upwards.

• French Patio Doors

French patio doors when installed with aluminium frames are often very expensive. They’re mostly used with uPVC at the new build homes’ rear in the UK. The potential cost is usually within the range of £800 to £3,000.

• Sliding Patio Doors

These are usually made from aluminium, wood or uPVC. With wood being mostly used for internal doors. The potential cost is usually within the range of £700 to £3,000.

Since it’s very common to find heated floors in the bathroom, it becomes very understandable that most home and property owners are fitting a radiant floor heating system under tile flooring. If you’re thinking about how you can fit heat under tile floor, then you’ve come to the right place. However, if you lack enough confidence to pull this off, then we’d advise you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’d be considering how heating products are fitted under the most commonly heated flooring material which is tile. Let’s take a look!

1. Take a measurement of the room you wish to heat. When taking this measurement, you should leave out permanent fixtures such as tubs, toilets, floor vents and more. This information will be used to create a project sketch which includes the room dimensions
2. Test your electric floor heating rolls. To make sure that your floor heating rolls are in perfect working condition, you should use a digital ohmmeter to test it.
3. Inspect the subfloor. Clear the surface of any nails or other sharp objects which could cause damage to the heating element.
4. Install the flex roll. Simply roll out your flex roll till it gets to the opposite side of the room. Once done, you can then cut the mesh and turn 180 degrees to continue fitting in the other direction.
5. Place the sensor. If you happen to possess a floor heating thermostat that enables a floor sensor, ensure to position the sensor near the thermostat’s location and exactly between two cables, then use hot glue or weave into mesh to secure it.
6. Connect the thermostat. We’d advise you get in touch with a professional to have this done.
7. Install the tile.

Solar panels are made up of photovoltaic (PV) cells. These cells are made from silicon semiconductors, which absorb sunlight and convert it into electricity.

There are three main types of PV cell: monocrystalline solar cells, polycrystalline solar cells, and thin film solar cells. Monocrystalline cells are usually the most efficient and expensive, and thin film solar cells are the cheapest and least efficient. These are all made from silicone, but are manufactured in different ways.