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For most homeowners, rewiring a house is always a sore subject they’d prefer to avoid especially when they think of the expenses they’d have to incur or the mess and complexity that the project involves. However, this is a subject we’d all have to face sooner or later as an old wiring poses a lot of drawbacks, while an improper wiring can also prove to be more expensive and even cause more damage as it can lead to not only electrical shorts but also electrical fires. When a wire triggers a spark or a current overload, this can cause fire and the entire house may be down in ashes within a couple of minutes. Hence, one of the several reasons why house rewiring is just too important to ignore.

In this FAQ, we’re going to take you through the house rewiring process so as to ensure that your project is done to perfection. However, if you do not feel confident enough to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a reliable electrical professional who can guarantee that a safe and effective work is done.

• Firstly, you’d have to upgrade the main service panel to a minimum of 100 amps
• Fit dedicated circuits in the service panel for all the home’s major appliances.
• Allow for a space of about 6 to 8 feet between electrical outlets throughout the house in order to cut out the need to run extension cords which could be a fire hazard.
• Install only three-prong type to avoid electrical shocks when fitting new outlets.
• Using ground fault circuit interrupters, fit outlets in the bathrooms, kitchen as well as outdoors. These outlets will shut themselves out so as to prevent electrical shock when wet.

Installing your Nest thermostat may not be as easy as screwing a light bulb, but we can also assure you that it isn’t very difficult either. However, if you lack the needed training or experience to pull it off, we’d recommend you hire the services of a professional in order to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you some quick and easy steps to follow and ensure you make no errors during the installation process.

Once installed removing the Nest Thermostat can be done. To get started, you’ll need just a Philips head screwdriver which Nest has thoughtfully provided with the device.

• Turn off the Nest Thermostat by switching the circuit breaker to the off position.

• Label or mark your old thermostat’s wires. However, if you notice your thermostat is tagged 120v or 240v, or possesses thick wires, do not connect the wires to the Nest as you have a high voltage system.

• Uninstall the old thermostat by locating detaching the wires coming out from the wall into the thermostat. Once done, simply unscrew the device from the wall

• Mark the spot of your thermostat. Do this by threading wires through the Nest base plate’s centre incorporate the tiny bubble level. Once done, you can then use a pencil to mark te two screw holes.

• Attach the trim plate. If you wish to cover the screw holes, simply install the trim plate in the Nest box’s bottom to the base plate.

• Using the screws and screwdriver, attach the Nest base to the wall.

• Connect the wires to the Nest by putting the labelled wires in the Nest’s corresponding ports.

• Put the Nest display by lining up the connector on the display’s back.

• Turn on the power by switching the circuit breaker to the on position

• Connect your Nest thermostat to the WiFi network.

• Follow the on-screen guide and set the temperature.

• Use your smartphone or tablet to download the Nest thermostat’s mobile app to monitor and control your device remotely.

When your driveway is suffering from depression, it becomes unsafe for driving (a danger zone) and ugly - no homeowner wants that! Unfortunately, most driveways won’t hold flat for long as they tend to develop cracks and potholes pretty quickly. Here, we are going to take you through how to fill asphalt driveways’ depression so as to ensure the sinkholes in your driveway poses no threat to you or your loved ones, while also beautifying your property. The approach to be used depends on the intensity of the depression. If its only a few cracks and holes, this can easily be repaired with some equipment. But if otherwise is the case, then calling a reliable professional will be your best bet. In this article, we’ll show you how to repair dips in your asphalt driveway relatively quickly.

✓ Pick a date with warm and sunny weather. This is because if you work in a cold weather, chances are the materials will freeze and hence, unusable. So find a day when the temperature will over 50 degrees Fahrenheit and below 80 degrees Celsius and when there would be no rain. We’ll advise a day between May to October.

✓ Prepare the area. Remove all loose stones, soil, dirt as well as vegetation from the holes. Once done, you can then proceed to washing the area with a pressure washer or sweep with a broom.

✓ Apply a thin mixture of asphalt to the area. Use a flat stirring stick to coat the low driveway area with a thin mixture of asphalt.

✓ Tamp the asphalt repair mix. Purchase the right kind of asphalt to repair the driveway. Fine aggregate asphalt mixture is more suited to filling small holes, whereas the coarse aggregate is more suited to filling larger holes. Apply layers ( about 2 inches each time) of the asphalt repair mix to the sunken area and use a shovel to give it a smooth finish. Once done, simply make the area smooth and protect it with a piece of plywood. Do not walk or drive on the area for a couple of days.

Do you have a composite door and wondering the best type of lock that can be used on your prized asset. To choose the right type of lock for a composite door, it’s of utmost importance to select one that’s designed to work perfectly with the composite configuration. By doing this, you’ll improve the security of your home while also achieving the desired look. To secure a composite door, the most common way is by incorporating a high security multipoint lock. Therefore, depending on the look you want for your door as well as how you want it to function, here are the four types of locks you can consider to go with your composite door.

• Split Spindle Lock

A split spindle lock would be your best bet if you’d like to automatically prevent access to your home from the outside. This lock allows you to open your door smoothly by utilizing the inside handle, however, you’ll need a key to turn the latch bolt to gain access back inside.

• Lever or Lever Lock

If you want an unhindered access in and out of your property, a lever lock gives you this opportunity without the need for a key until it’s totally deadlocked. The lever lock is installed to the back door which makes unauthorized entry even less likely.

• Slam Lock

If you’d prefer a super fast locking, then this lock type is your answer! It automatically triggers the lock hooks immediately you close the door - without having to lift the handle. However, to gain access to the inside of your home or bolt the door from the inside, you’ll need a key.

• Key Wind-Up Lock

This lock is wholly key operated and totally handle-free. Immediately the door is closed, the latch bolt will be automatically activated, ensuring that a key would be needed to gain access back inside.

It might be possible to fit electrics in your shed, depending on where it is and what it’s made of. You should get in touch with a qualified electrician to find out whether it’s possible. Never attempt to run electrical cable from your house to an outbuilding!

Yes, although pest control products available to the public are usually only suitable for dealing with very small pest infestations. If you have a nest or persistent pests, it’s best to contact a pest control professional. They have access to more suitable products.

Before you start digging, you should know sewer lines are required to be buried within certain specifications and it’s your responsibility to find out what these specifications are. If you’re thinking about the appropriate depth of sewer line, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post we’re going to consider how deep a main sewer line should be buried underground.

First and foremost, you should understand that sewer lines are simply the intestinal systems of a house or property. Their primary function is to totally remove waste water and other waste matter from your drains, toilet, shower, dishwasher as well as the exterior faucets. With this in mind, we can then move to our main concern which is the sewer line depth. In a world that’s perfect, you’d be allowed to to just dig your home’s sewer line deep enough to cover it with a thin layer of sod. However, if you happen to reside in an environment with deep running cold, this inclement weather may just freeze up your waste right in the pipe due to the fact that it’s placed too close to the surface where there’s not enough warmth. This could also extend to other harsh weather conditions such as heavy wind and hurricanes which are able to tear out ground deep down and even more so, if it were to pull up trees that are close by with deep roots. Hence, the need to get the appropriate depth of sewer lines right.

Sewer lines depth can vary greatly - they can be as shallow as 12 to 30 and can be as deep as 6+ feet. This is often determined by the climate.

It’s possible to paint your artex ceiling if you want to smarten it up or make it a different colour.

If it’s never been painted before, you’ll need to paint it with a PVA-based solution or water-thinned paint layer to start with. You may want to scrape or sand off any loose or peeling patches beforehand, but only do this if you’re sure that the artex doesn’t contain any asbestos.

Once you’ve done this, follow with two coats of your paint of choice – ideally an emulsion. If your artex ceiling has been painted before then you can paint directly without priming. However, if you’re painting over a particularly bold colour with a lighter one, you might want apply a layer of white paint first.