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Pitting, also referred to as spalling is the event whereby “pits” or small holes start showing on the surface of your concrete driveway which makes it appear both worn and uneven. Concrete driveway pitting is a common but highly frustrating problem for most homeowners. You’ll see some concrete driveways that’ll only start to pit after a couple of years, but this is not true for all concrete driveways as others will start to show signs only after a couple of months. So how do you tackle this issue? Well, it’s relatively simple to tackle, however if you’re not confident or lack the necessary skills, we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the concrete driveway pitting repair process.

✓ Prepare the pits by cleaning the area, clearing out all debris and more. The small pits can be cleaned with a stiff brush while a sturdy broom will do a good job for larger pits.

✓ Make use of a hose to spray the concrete pits and flush out all remaining bits of waste.

✓ If you’re tackling series of small pits, simply use a caulking gun filled with pre-mixed epoxy and specially formulated for concrete to fill the pits. Clear off the excess eproxy ensuring that its level with the concrete surface. Once done, simply leave for at least 24 hours before the application of a concrete sealant to prevent the wear and tear of the new concrete.

✓ Chisel out a little concrete and clean with a pressure washer. Once done, apply a concrete resurfacing compound mixture into the holes and use a trowel to level off.

✓ Ensure that the repaired concrete driveway is protected from rain and foot traffic for at least 6 hours (or 24 hours for vehicles).

Asbestos is a perfect example of a silent and hidden killer. The harmful fibre it releases is not only totally invisible to the eye, but also absolutely odourless, therefore can’t be smelt. As a result, you can walk into a room completely filled with asbestos and you still won’t suspect a thing. If you live in an old building ( built before the 1980’s) in the UK, it’s very possible that there’s some asbestos in the house.

Asbestos causes up to 5000 deaths in the UK on a yearly basis. When asbestos materials are disturbed, they release asbestos fibres, which when inhaled can result in lung cancer, asbestosis as well as mesothelioma which are all painful and fatal diseases. And perhaps even more importantly, you won’t notice any symptoms of having these diseases until after several years after your first exposure to asbestos fibres.

Therefore, to reduce these numbers, there’s a crucial need to to know how to identify asbestos so as not to put both ourselves and loved ones at risk.

There are three types of asbestos which includes blue or crocidolite, brown or amosite, and white or chrysotile. So they can easily be identified by their respective colour names, right? Wrong! Asbestos fibres can not be seen with the eye, it can only be detected under a microscope. They’re very tiny and light, and once disturbed and in the air, they can float can days. Asbestos are commonly found in several building materials such as cement products, floor tiles, paints, adhesive, partitions, cladding, insulation, doors and lots more. With its wide acceptability in the past, any building product you can probably think of could contain asbestos.

By replacing the single glazed windows in your home you stand to make savings of around £170 each year. It’s not just the financial gain that makes double glazing attractive though and you can also save up to 680kg of carbon emissions annually. Over 20 years this is a saving of around £3,400 and 13,600kg of CO2.

On a hot summer’s day, we often seek our garden lawn as a cooling place to sit and get some relief from the sun. However, since artificial grass is made from plastic, lots of people ask whether it gets hot, or whether it stays like natural grass. The answer is, it’s somewhere in between.

Of course, we all know to stay in the shade in midday sun and this is when your artificial grass will be at its hottest. Unless it is an extremely hot say and your lawn is in direct sunlight, you should still be able to walk on your artificial grass. The best thing to do is test it using the back of your hand before anyone walks over it with bare feet or children go to play on it.

In the shade, artificial grass should always maintain a cool temperature, although it will never have that refreshing feel of cold grass on a hot day. It will also cool down extremely quickly as the day goes on, so if your grass does get too hot it shouldn’t be unusable for too long.

Artificial grass has to meet high safety standards and most are UV stabilised, which means that they can withstand high temperatures without melting or getting extremely hot. It’s worth remembering that hot countries like Dubai use artificial grass, so the occasional hot day in a British summer should be enough for artificial grass to handle!

Most material warranties come from the waterproofing layer manufacturers, and can last between 5 and 20 years. If your roofing contractor is on the manufacturer’s installer list, it might cover their work. It’s important that you always read through all the information given to you about your warranty so you know exactly what is included.

While it sounds like it could be difficult to plasterboard around a Velux window, it needn’t be. As long as you have the right tools and materials, you should be able to plasterboard around your roof window easily and make good ready to be skimmed. When you or a tradesperson has fitted your Velux window into your roof, you’ll probably need to plasterboard over it to create a good ceiling. To do this, you’ll need:

• Plasterboard sheets – make sure you measure your room so you know how much you’ll need
• Screws to secure the board in place
• Drill
• Hammer
• Straight edge and pen knife to score the board before trimming
• Fine toothed saw the cut the plasterboard

When you’re ready to plasterboard around your roof window, make sure you’ve cleared enough space to work in. Then you can begin by cutting your plasterboard to size using your straight edge and pen knife to score, then your saw to get a clean cut. A common way of plasterboarding around your Velux window is to use the groove on the window frame to hold one edge of the board, then screw the other edge to the battens on the ceiling. People often use drywall screws these days as they have a better grip of the plasterboard as they drive through. You’ll need to use a drill to screw these in. However, you could use plasterboard nails, which are galvanised to stop rusting. When you’ve done this, you can then skim the walls or ask a plasterer to do it for you. Plastering, while it looks easy, is a tricky skill so it’s always best to ask a professional to do it.

The A-G scale refers to the energy efficiency of your boiler. G-rated boilers are the least efficient, and give you less heat and hot water for your money. Installing an A-rated boiler will reduce your energy bills and carbon emissions. Don't compromise on cheaper, lower rated boilers, you will save yourself more money longer term with an A-rated model.

Using a Fensa registered installer isn’t compulsory but it helps to protect you from cowboys and rogue traders. It will also make life a whole lot easier in regards to Building Regulations. Replacement windows must meet a certain energy efficiency rating and once fitted you need a certificate to show your installation complies. By using a Fensa registered company they’ll issue this certificate, otherwise you’ll need the council to look at the new windows.