Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Talybont.

While many professionals will recommend a pressure washer to clean block paving, it’s possible to clean your paving without one – just scrub the affected areas with a firm bristled brush and use plenty of soap. Then, rinse off the area with clean water.

If you’ve made the decision to purchase an air conditioning system for your office, the next step is deciding whether to install the unit yourself or get in touch with a professional for help. To several business owners, this is a very simply decision to make, - a lot of money can be saved by making the task a DIY project. However, the installation of a heating and cooling system requires some specific skills and knowledge that, when not properly mastered, can lead to some installation faults which will ultimately make the system consume more energy than necessary while also affecting its durability. On the other hand, installation done by a well trained professional will not only save you a lot of money, but will also ensure you get to enjoy your system for a long period of time.

If you’re yet to be convinced about the importance of a professionally installed office air conditioning system, here are some point that just might make you have a rethink.

• Professionals are experienced and highly skilled. When it comes to the installation of heating and cooling systems in a work environment, there’s a need to call in a reliable professional. This is because AC system installation requires a well trained individual who know just how best to ensure your AC system works efficiently and for a long period of time.
• Most professionals are insured. When you call in an insured office air conditioning expert, you’ll have a peace of mind knowing you’re fully covered in case something goes wrong during the installation process.
• Professionals able to provide expert advice. Having a good experience in field and good knowledge of heating and cooling systems, professionals are able to provide helpful tips such as maintenance procedures so as to ensure you get to enjoy your investment for a prolonged period.

How To Tile A Kitchen Wall

Tiling a kitchen wall can seem like an easy task until you get started. Errors made will forever be evident for everyone to see unless you’re prepared to spend some extra bucks. When done right, it can actually be a very satisfying project, but don’t even think about rushing into it. If you lack a proper training or experience, it’s advisable to leave the task to a skilled professional for the best results and to avoid extra costs. This guide is meant to give you a detailed insight into the process and help you avoid possible errors.

lPreparation

• Ensure you have the required amount of tiles, adhesive and grout.

• Take the tiles measurement and calculate in square metres.

• Determine the number of tiles to be used and add about 10% to the total number to cover for possible wastage.

• Check to surface to make sure its clean and dry.

lMark Out The Area To Be Tiled

• Mark out the width of the tiles with spacers using a baton of timber.

• Position a tile against the bottom-most point and draw a line.

• Put a baton along this line and follow this by a vertical line at the wall’s end.

lInstall The Tiles On The Kitchen Walls

• Apply an even layer of adhesive with a wall trowel on the kitchen’s wall surface.

• Place the first tile on the adhesive and apply small pressure, do this for the remaining tiles with similar pressure to ensure its levelled.

• Make use of tile spacers to get a uniform space in between.

• Leave the adhesive to harden before applying the grout.

lGrouting

• Remove the tile space and clear out excess adhesive

• Prepare the grout

• Make use of a grout float to apply the mixture into the joints.

• Let the grout dry up a bit before washing the surface off with a sponge and water.

On a hot summer’s day, we often seek our garden lawn as a cooling place to sit and get some relief from the sun. However, since artificial grass is made from plastic, lots of people ask whether it gets hot, or whether it stays like natural grass. The answer is, it’s somewhere in between.

Of course, we all know to stay in the shade in midday sun and this is when your artificial grass will be at its hottest. Unless it is an extremely hot say and your lawn is in direct sunlight, you should still be able to walk on your artificial grass. The best thing to do is test it using the back of your hand before anyone walks over it with bare feet or children go to play on it.

In the shade, artificial grass should always maintain a cool temperature, although it will never have that refreshing feel of cold grass on a hot day. It will also cool down extremely quickly as the day goes on, so if your grass does get too hot it shouldn’t be unusable for too long.

Artificial grass has to meet high safety standards and most are UV stabilised, which means that they can withstand high temperatures without melting or getting extremely hot. It’s worth remembering that hot countries like Dubai use artificial grass, so the occasional hot day in a British summer should be enough for artificial grass to handle!

Most conservatories won’t require Building Regulations approval. However, if you’re planning a conservatory more than 30 square metres in floor space this may be required. If there is no linking door between the home and conservatory then Buildings Regulations approval will be needed too. For more information and to ensure getting everything right, speak to the local council or planning officer.

Do you think your outside drain is blocked? If yes, then you should have it treated as soon as possible and most especially by a professional who can guarantee the best outcome. When you fail to unblock your drain when due, there is no limit to the damage that can be caused. These includes water leakages which can damage your home or business facility. And in critical situations, it can as well result in pipe burst which will definitely cost you a lot more money to fix when compared to taking a quick action to unclog the outside drain blockages. If you’re thinking about hiring a professional, then you’d probably want to know how much its going to cost. In this post, we’re going to look at the cost of clearing an outside drain and the possible influencing factors.

The cost of clearing an outside drain is based on a number of factors. These factors include the type of the blockage, the method used, the location of the property as well as the ease of access. Using the blockage type as an example, a small blockage in a toilet or sink is usually priced within the range of £50 to about £70. However, for an extensive blockage deep in your outside drain that’s hard to access, you may end up incurring anything within the range of £150 to about £200.

There are also a wide variety of methods that can be used to clear blockages from an outside drain which will also play a key role in the final cost of the service. These methods include drain jetting which usually costs within the range of £70 to £175, drain rodding from £80 to about £145 as well as a full system scrub which should cost about £150 to £200.

It is, however, important to note that the above costs are just an estimate and other factors as mentioned earlier on will also have an influence on the final price.

Are you considering converting your garage into a more usable space in your home? If yes, then you’d probably want to know if you’ll require building regs before converting the garage. The answer to this question is yes. Although you may not require planning approval to convert your garage into a more usable space, but you’d usually need approval under the Building Regulations.

When re-structuring your garage into a habitable space, the following should be taken into consideration: structural alterations, ventilation, moisture proofing, insulation, fireproofing, escape routes as well as the submission of a building building notice or full plan application to the local council in order to inform them about the planned project.

• Walls

You’ll require an approval if you plan to infill the garage door with a window and a new wall. This is because the garage may have been built of a shallow slab which implies that a new foundation would be needed for the new wall construction.

• Floor

Even though there’s a high possibility that the garage floor is strong enough for domestic use since its designed to withstand the weight of vehicles, you may however need to upgrade to make sure it suitable for both thermal insulation and damp proofing. In addition, there may also be the need to to alter the floor level in such a way that it matches that of the remaining parts of the house.

• Ventilation

According to the Building Regulations requirements, there’s a need for adequate ventilation for each individual rooms which includes garage conversions for general health purposes. What’s going to determine the ventilation level that’ll be required is the frequency at which the room is used. Ventilation can be provided through purge or simply opening the window or via trickle ventilation.

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.