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Asbestos is a perfect example of a silent and hidden killer. The harmful fibre it releases is not only totally invisible to the eye, but also absolutely odourless, therefore can’t be smelt. As a result, you can walk into a room completely filled with asbestos and you still won’t suspect a thing. If you live in an old building ( built before the 1980’s) in the UK, it’s very possible that there’s some asbestos in the house.

Asbestos causes up to 5000 deaths in the UK on a yearly basis. When asbestos materials are disturbed, they release asbestos fibres, which when inhaled can result in lung cancer, asbestosis as well as mesothelioma which are all painful and fatal diseases. And perhaps even more importantly, you won’t notice any symptoms of having these diseases until after several years after your first exposure to asbestos fibres.

Therefore, to reduce these numbers, there’s a crucial need to to know how to identify asbestos so as not to put both ourselves and loved ones at risk.

There are three types of asbestos which includes blue or crocidolite, brown or amosite, and white or chrysotile. So they can easily be identified by their respective colour names, right? Wrong! Asbestos fibres can not be seen with the eye, it can only be detected under a microscope. They’re very tiny and light, and once disturbed and in the air, they can float can days. Asbestos are commonly found in several building materials such as cement products, floor tiles, paints, adhesive, partitions, cladding, insulation, doors and lots more. With its wide acceptability in the past, any building product you can probably think of could contain asbestos.

1. After the installer’s measured up, given you an estimated output and recommended some systems for you, they’ll arrange date to come to your home to install the solar thermal panels. They’ll also let you know if any scaffolding will be required.
2. Next, they will start to fit the panels, or collectors, to your roof. Stainless steel brackets will be provided with the system and they will remove your roof tiles or slates to attach the brackets to the rafters. They’ll then replace the tiles and add waterproof flashing to ensure you don’t get any roof leaks, and add the frame.
3. If you’ve chosen evacuated tube solar thermal panels, the installer will bolt the heat transfer unit to the top of the frame but not install the tubes until nearer the end. This is because the tubes start to transfer heat to the exchanger immediately, and when everything is unconnected this could damage the unit.
4. If you don’t need a new boiler with your installation, a new dual coil water cylinder, pump and system control system will be fitted. It’s best in a loft or upper floor of your home.
5. A new thermal store or hot water tank that will store the heat provided by the solar system is much larger than a standard tank but it may fit in the spot of your old one. The installer will ensure that it’s connected to the mains cold water, your other heating source (such as a gas boiler or biomass boiler), immersion heater, temperature sensors and the solar collectors themselves.
6. Next they will install the pumping station, usually near the water tank. The expansion tank will be installed on the solar thermal loop, which is usually nearby. Its job is to prevent pressure changes that could damage the system.
7. You’ll get a heat generation meter which must be MCS-certified if you want to take advantage of the RHI, and any control equipment that comes with the system will be installed.
8. The installers will then bring the system to pressure by pumping the heat transfer liquid into the system up to a pressure of around 2 bar.
9. Finally, your MCS-registered installer will register your solar thermal system so you can apply for RHI payments of up to £525 per year.
So that’s the process of installing solar thermal panels. Remember – it's always best to use a professional to install any kind of renewable technology.

Fibreglass, or GRP, flat roofs are very durable and should last you years, but over time they can become brittle and you might see some cracks or holes forming. Luckily, you can repair a fibreglass flat roof and it doesn’t have to be too difficult. Cracks in a fibreglass flat roof If you notice long cracks in your fibreglass roof, you can often use a fibreglass crack sealant. Simply clean the area, squeeze the sealant into the crack, then smooth it off. If you want it to look neater, you could coat the entire roof with a restorative coating which will make it look new again. Hole in a fibreglass roof If you notice a hole in your fibreglass flat roof, you’ll want to get this repaired as soon as possible to avoid any rainwater getting into your home. There are lots of fibreglass roof hole repair kits on the market, both online and in DIY stores, so you shouldn’t have trouble picking one up. They usually contain a mouldable UV cured patch that you can stick onto the hole. It will harden and become instantly weatherproof, so is the perfect emergency repair solution. Fixing pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof Unfortunately, if you find pin holes in a fibreglass flat roof it’s often because the installer didn’t use enough resin during the fibreglassing process. Luckily, if you can’t get back in touch with the installer or you only notice after a few years, you can fix this yourself. Sand down the roof back to the clear resin layer. Clean the entire roof with acetone and reapply some GRP roofing resin. Ensure that all the pinholes are filled – you might need two coats.

Air source heat pumps can be a really efficient way to generate heat. Although they require electricity to run, they generate much more heat than an electric heater that uses the same amount.

Air source heat pumps provide heat at a lower temperature than most other types of space heating. This means they’re most efficient when they’re left on for longer periods of time, and distribute heat through wet heating systems with large surface areas, like underfloor heating or big radiators.

Air source heat pumps can be much more efficient than oil and LPG boilers, and older electric heating systems. However, they’re only usually the most efficient option if your property is very well insulated.

Rendering of a house is one of those projects that can greatly improve the visual appeal of your home, enhance it’s energy efficiency, protect the brickwork from the elements and ultimately, add value to your home. Generally, the cost of rendering a house normally costs within the range of £25 to £70 per metre square, while the average cost house rendering costs stands at about £40 per square metre. Therefore, a 3 bedroom semi detached house will cost within the range of £4000 to about £5000.

The total cost of rendering a house is determined by a wide range of factors. These factors includes the following:

✓ Type of the rendering. There are three main types of rendering which includes sand and cement rendering, monocouche rendering as well as acrylic or silicone rendering. However, re-rendering applies to sand and cement sooner and it’ll also have to be painted every 3 to 6 years. Consequently, longer term cost can be higher when compared to the other types.

✓ Ease of access. Where your contractor will have to work around obstacles like shrubs or conservatory, this can make the cost a bit higher as it’ll take longer time to complete.

✓ Prep work. If the contractor needs to fill some cracks or perhaps an old mortar requires tuck pointing before rendering can be started, this will also affect the cost.

✓ Scaffolding. In the event whereby the job requires the use of scaffolding and you’ll have to hire one as a different cost, then the price will be higher.

✓ Your location. Due to the high standards of living and higher demands in areas like London or the Southeast, prices in these regions are usually higher than that of the other regions like Midlands and North.

What Size Of Oil Boiler Do I Need?

When it comes to oil boilers, there are three main types - the combi, system and conventional. Within these types, you’d discover there happens to be a wide range of sizes to choose from. First and foremost, we must note that the size has to do with the amount of energy they offer to your heating and hot water system rather than the physical dimensions.

The rule of thumb is, the larger your house (which implies the more hot taps, radiators and showers), the more powerful (bigger) the oil boiler you’d require. For instance, a four-bedroom apartment with three showers occupied by a family of four will definitely need a more powerful boiler than a a bungalow featuring a single occupant.

It is, however, important to also note that it’s not all about going for the biggest oil boiler. If you decide to choose an oil boiler with a much bigger capacity that needed, not only will you be wasting money on the initial purchase as well as installation, but also lose money operating it. And in a converse scenario, if you go for the cheaper and lower-powered oil boiler in an attempt to save up some money, you’re most likely to end up with tepid radiators while also frequently running out of hot water. Hence, the importance of determining the appropriate size of boiler for your particular household before purchase.

To determine the appropriate size, determining the number of bathrooms, radiators as well as the total number of people living in the property would be a step in the right direction.

Numbers of Radiators Combi System Boiler Regular

Up to 10 24 to 27kW 9 to 18kW 9 to 18kW

10 to 15 28 to 34kW 18 to 26kW 18 to 26kW

15 to 20 35 to 42kW 27 to 40kW 27 to 40kW

More often than not, several homeowners fail to realize there’s so much value sitting right under their roof - the loft. When a loft is insulated, there are so many juicy benefits that can be derived. It can go a long way to save increase you energy savings and several more functions. Therefore, if you really wish to maximize the space under your home’s roof, you’d have to considering insulating it. So how much would it cost to have your loft insulated? Here, you’ll discover the cost of insulating your lofts so you that you can set a budget and start to plan.

The cost of insulating a loft is actually affordable for several individuals, however, this depends on a wide range of factors such as the size of the house as well as the type of insulation being installed. One significant factor is the insulating material that you choose to install. If done properly, you’d be able to prevent heat from escaping through the roof of the house which helps improve energy efficiency and ultimately, save you some money on heating bills.

If you’d prefer to make it a DIY project and you go for a blanket insulation it costs about £5 per m2. therefore, this will cost within the range of £100 to about £150 for a small home.

For a professional service, you’ll be provided with a quote for both the materials and labour. The amount will be based on the number of insulation required, the company hired, your location as well as the method selected. The price to purchase and install blanket insulation  would be between the range of £300 to £400 depending on the size of your home.