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The short and simple answer to this question is, it depends. Artex surface coating was manufactured with white abestos ( until the mid 1980’s ) in order to strengthen as well as harden it. In other words, this implies that all the ceilings and walls coverings made by Artex Ltd and other manufactures at the time are highly likely to contain asbestos. Although Artex Ltd stopped using asbestos as early as the mid 1980’s, there were still other manufacturers who continued using it until 1999 when the laws and regulations covering the use of asbestos changed in the year 2000.

Asbestos, however, is only harmful when disturbed and releases its deadly fibres. For instance, when it’s being sanded and removed as it usually poses no risks when left undisturbed. Since it’s not possible to identify Artex containing asbestos fibres with the naked eye, it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a qualified person or company to help determine if you have asbestos in your ceilings or walls especially if your house was constructed before the year 2000. The professionals will be able to advise you on the best course of action as well as if it’s dangerous.

To be sure if your Artex contains asbestos, you’ll need to have the artex sampled by an asbestos surveyor. If you’re planning to have a construction or maintenance work done on your property, and the artex is likely to be in the way or disturbed, there’s a need for you to have a refurbishment or demolition asbestos survey done. This will ensure that all the areas that’ll be disturbed by the work is properly tested to determine the presence or otherwise of asbestos. If found, the artex will have to be addressed and either removed or protected before any work can take place.

To install one small double glazed window, it will take anywhere between two hours and half a day. It will depend on whether one installer is fitting your window or two. And if you’re doing it yourself and don’t have any professional experience, it will take even longer.

When the window fitters arrive, they will make sure they’ve got safe access to the window and move any heavy furniture if they need to. Any good installer will lay down a dust sheet, but it’s a good idea to check that they’ve got one laid down before they start.

The first step any window installer will take is to double check the measurements of the new frame against your existing one. Hopefully it should match up, so then they’ll take the old window out. Then, they’ll insert the new frame into the aperture and bolt it into the concrete. They'll check it with a spirit level to ensure it’s even before moving onto the glass sealed unit.

The installer will place the glass into the aperture, then fit the beads to secure the glass in the frame. They’ll then use silicone and trim on the inside and outside to ensure the window looks perfect. You won’t be able to see where they’ve used sealants or trims because they’ll colour match them so it’s not noticeable. Then, they’ll tidy up all of their tools and the working area and let you know what needs to be done in terms of proving that the window meets building regulations. Most good installers are registered with a self-certification scheme, so will be able to issue a certification once the work is complete.

This is usually the question that comes first when thinking about installing a home security system and reasonably so. However, it can also be very tricky to provide an accurate answer as alarms now features varying shapes and sizes. However one thing to have in mind when it comes to getting a burglar alarm is that it’s definitely better to be safe than sorry. Here, we are going to provide a clear and succinct information to help you get a good idea of how much you’d have to spend to have your house secured.

Let’s Consider the Different Types of Burglar Alarms

• Bells-only alarms

This is the most popular type which features a loud siren that is positioned at the exterior of your building and linked with varying motion sensors in strategic locations. Whenever a motion is detected by the sensors, an ear-splitting sound would be triggered. To get the basic starter kit (2-3 sensors and 1 siren) for a DIY installation, the cost ranges between £130 - £160. However for a more advanced system, the price jumps to £400 - £500.

• Dialler alarm systems

This works with different motion sensors strategically placed across the home. When triggered, it sets off the siren and also rings your mobile device. A system with two sensors and one emergency number costs between £200 - £300.

• Monitored alarm systems

This system is linked to a central call centre who alarms the authorities or private security to a violation of the protected zone. The cost for a monitored alarm system starts within the range of £500 to £600, while the monitoring services can cost within the range of £300 to £400 annually.

Other Possible Costs

• Installation

After purchase, you’ll need to decide whether or not you want your system professionally installed. Generally, the cost of getting a professional installation service costs between £150 to £200.

• Maintenance

Do you think your burglar alarm requires yearly maintenance inspections? Depending on the make and model of the system, the maintenance cost may vary. However, the prices usually starts within a range of £100 to £150.

Registered Electricians will certainly work in uniformity with the UK nationwide criterion, BS 7671 - Demands for Electrical Installations. They will certainly provide a safety and security certification for their electric work to verify that the setup has actually been created, built, evaluated and evaluated, based on the standard.

You should guarantee that your selected Electrical installer is signed up with one of the adhering to companies:

• BRE Certification Ltd
• British Standards Institution.
• ELECSA Ltd
• NAPIT Registration Ltd
• NICEIC Group Ltd
• SELECT (Scotland)
• STROMA

Black mould, just like every other type of mould, is commonly present in dark and humid areas of homes and structures. Basically, it releases spores into the air which can be absorbed when you breathe in or through your skin. These spores are also able to get a ride on your body to other areas and gradually, spread throughout the home or house. Black mould is very different from other common household moulds, but it has a reputation for being toxic. In fact, a lot of individuals refer to black mould simply as toxic mould due to its reputation. When left untreated or totally ignored, black mould can result in serious health challenges and even more so for more vulnerable individuals. Respiratory issues are the most common health issues that arises as a result of black mould. You may start to cough, sneeze or even develop an itchy throat after a prolonged exposure to the toxic black mould spores. Vulnerable people or people at higher risk such as infants or an individual with respiratory challenges, could suffer long term health challenges. So, what are the signs of mould? Let’s take a look!

The most effective approach to reduce the risk of breathing in black mould spores is by eradicating it immediately you notice it. You may have a black mould issues if you notice:

• A musty smell. Luckily, mould has a unique and distinct smell which is often described as musty and earthy. It may even smell just like rotten vegetables or plants.
• Growth spots of different colours. Just like the name implies, black mould is often dark in colour. If you notice circular spots that are black, dark green or dark brown, then you probably have black mould in your house.
• Water damage spots. To detect black mould early on, simply look for water damage spots.

Generally the process for having plans produced will only take a month or two. Major works or new builds can take upto ten months to produce. This will depend on the requirements of your project and the number of technical drawings you need produced. An architect will always advise you based on the project how long these will realistically take.

If you’re thinking about installing a carpet on your floor, one of the most important things you’d have to put into consideration before you proceed is the most suitable type of underlay to ensure your carpet is placed appropriately and maximum value is derived. This is a common issue for several homeowners and we aim to help you clear the worries once and for all. In this post, we’re going to consider the best underlay for your carpet to help you make the best informed decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

In all honesty, there’s no straightforward answer to this question as the best carpet underlay depends on a number of factors. These factors include the type of carpet you wish to install, the type of flooring it will sit on ( e.g, concrete or underfloor heating), your budget, the room you’re laying the underlay in as well as your personal preferences in terms of durability, comfort, noise reduction and more.

When a carpet underlay is carefully selected, it’ll act as a shock absorber - perfect for protecting your floors against high traffic and impact, making sure that your carpeted floor looks good and healthy for a long period of time.

Generally, the best carpet underlay for bedrooms will be a thick, sponge rubber underlay or a wool combination felt variation which guarantees your comfort. For living rooms and lounges, the best carpet underlay would be one that is sumptuous and velvety soft to provide a comfortable floor. For dining rooms, you’d be smart to get a good quality hard-wearing carpet underlay as this area is one of the most frequently occupied areas in the home.