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Do You Need Planning Permission For A Conservatory?

Adding a conservatory to your home or property comes with a whole lot of benefits. It provides you with the much needed additional living space within your property, add value to your home and creates a link between your home and garden. As advantageous as it is, one of the major reasons why some homeowners decide against constructing a new conservatory is because of planning permission. If you don’t know what you’re doing the entire process can be very tedious and you definitely do not want to go through the stress of completing your remarkable new conservatory, only to be instructed to have it removed again.

Therefore, as a homeowner, you have the responsibility to seek planning permission before you undergo such construction project and that’s more than enough to make some people reconsider the whole project. In this article, we’ll let you know whether you’ll need to apply for a planning permission.

Generally, conservatories falls into the category of permitted development rights which allows you to complete home building projects without having to apply for a planning permission. However, there are some circumstances where you’ll require a planning permission. These includes:

✓ If the conservatory covers more than 50 percent of the land around the main house.

✓ If the conservatory will be placed on the side of the house that faces the road.

✓ If the conservatory will be higher than the highest point of the main building’s roof.

✓ If the main building is lower than the height of the eaves and ridge.

✓ If the conservatory will be constructed to the side of the house and more than a single storey or it goes higher than 4 metres.

✓ If the conservatory will be wider than the width of the main building, if it’s to be built beside it.

✓ If the conservatory will be constructed at the rear and higher than 4 metres.

Moving a house can be an exciting task, but also a stressful one at the same time. For most home and property owners, one fee that’s often overlooked when its time to budget is the removal costs. Most times, the additional money you’d have to set aside for a removals company to pack and unpack your household items can come as a big surprise to many. So exactly how much can you expect to pay for removals in the UK? Let’s take a look!

Overall, the average house removal costs for a standard 3 bedroom house move based on short distance removals of about 25 miles is about £500 to about £555. This amount should cover the basic costs provided all the necessary household items and furniture have already been packed. What’s more? There’ll be some additional costs to factor in the event whereby you need packing services as well as materials to be supplied by your local removal company.

If there’s also a need for dismantles and re-assembly of some items, this will also attract some extra costs. Further more, the relocation cost will also increase if your need special attention as well as care for any of your personal items.

In addition, a long distance move from your current home will obviously be more expensive than the cost of a local move in the UK. Also, international removals are significantly more expensive again. For instance, its more reasonable that an international move to Nigeria would be a lot more expensive than the cost to move to a nearby town.

Apart from long distances, another factor that can influence the removal cost is the size of the property. For instance a four-bedroom house will need more packing material, bigger removal vans and will also be more time consuming when compared to moving out of a one-bedroom house.

Asides from the fact that solar energy can be converted into electricity with the help of solar panels, there’s also another pretty cool way the sun’s power can be harnessed - solar thermal technologies. These technologies are able to convert sunlight into heat rather than power and these are in fact the very first solar energy products that were commercialized in the United Kingdom. Solar thermal panels, in a similar way to solar PVs, can help in minimizing your carbon footprint while also assisting you to save good money on your energy bills by providing the much needed coverage for your heating needs with the help of a renewable energy source that’s totally free.

Solar thermal panels provides some great benefits which is capable of making all homeowners in the UK consider installing one in their respective homes. Let’s take a closer look at these benefits.

✓ When compared to solar PV panels, they’re a more affordable heating option and also have a shorter payback period.

✓ Solar thermal panels are more efficient than PV panels due to the fact that the heat waves are able to hold more energy than sunlight and also because there’s no electricity transformation process.

✓ Solar thermal panels are able to operate in cold climates, strong wind as well as overcast weather, and make use of an energy storage system.

✓ They can help you save about 600kg of carbon dioxide emissions on an annual basis.

✓ Although most of the solar thermal panel systems come with a warranty usually within the range of 5 to 10 years, they’re able to last up to 25 years. What’s more? The require just a little maintenance, meaning the main cost you’d have to worry about is the cost of installation.

Regular maintenance is vital for keeping a garden looking its best. By carrying out regular gardening work, you can ensure that your garden is as functional as possible. Regular garden maintenance work could also save you money, as it is better to detect problems such as overgrown trees or rotten fencing early.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, loft insulation does cause condensation. Over the years, problems with condensation in loft spaces have become increasingly common. While this may not be harmful in anyway, when the condensation becomes excessive it can lead to more serious issues taking root in your loft like wet rot, dry rot as well as black spot mould. Generally, the best thing to do if you’re concerned about the condensation in your loft space and that it may rapidly become a bigger problem is to get in touch with a damp specialist as soon as possible.

Even though insulating your loft space comes with a wide array of benefits like making the top floor rooms warmer, it’s however comes at the cost of making your loft or room space cooler. Condensation in lofts take place primarily due to the humid air making its way through insulation or other gaps into the loft space and touching a cooler surface which in turn results in beads of moisture on the timbers, lintels as well as the underside of the roof. This is why its always a great idea make use of thermal insulation with a vapour barrier that’s installed on the warmer side of the insulating material.

Condensation in loft is caused by excess moisture in the air and lack of adequate air ventilation. Here are some top reasons that gives rise to this in the loft:

• Extra insulation has been installed in the loft leading to a restriction on the natural air circulation in the property.
• When the storage boxes or other items that has been stockpiled in the loft blocks the roof vents.
• The release of steam and moist air into the loft space by hot water tanks.

Double glazed windows are one of the most popular window options for home and property owners in the United Kingdom and reasonably so. They are able to offer a wide range of benefits to home owners which includes being energy efficient, reducing the build up of condensation on windows and black mould growth, significantly reducing background noise for a better relaxation or night rest, increasing the value of your property as well as adding to the aesthetic appeal of your home. So if you’ve decided to lay your hands on a double glazed window, you’d probably also like to know how much it’s going to cost. Well, providing a simple and accurate answer to the question of double glazing window cost is almost impossible as there are so many factors that influences the price including the materials and style.

Several suppliers usually provide the list of their double glazing windows on their websites, however these prices are only for basic off the shelf window and most often without the installation cost. Furthermore, if you require some special features to your double glazed window, then this will also tell on the total cost of the window.

So how much will a double glazing window cost? The cost of a double glazing window usually ranges between £100 to £3,200 per window, depending on the available options.

To have a more accurate estimate of the cost of a double glazing window, you’ll need a obtain a survey from a double glazing installer who can take into account any possible complications that may arise when installing your windows while also giving an advise on the most suitable window style for your property.

We all know how helpful air conditioning systems can be especially during the hot summer season which is great at making your home feel nothing less than an inferno. So if you have an AC system, you’d probably want to know if leaving it on will be cheaper and more efficient.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, leaving your air conditioning system on will make make it cheaper and more efficient. This isn’t what you or many other people will have in mind though. Under no circumstances should you leave you air conditioning system on full blast 24/7. To make your air conditioning system more efficient by leaving it on has a right and wrong way you can go about it. Let’s have a look!

If you’d ever noticed, any time you turn your air conditioner off during a very a hot day, even if it’s for just a couple of hours, things tend to get thrown out of balance pretty quickly. When turned back on, your AC system will have to work even harder to restore the usual comfort levels in the room. When you abuse this dial in such a fashion, the AC system can only become more inefficient rather than making your home more comfortable quickly.

On the other hand, your AC system ( when tuned to the right settings) can help maintain the proper temperature and humidity balance within your home instead of turning it off while away. And upon getting back, you can simply turn down the thermostat a bit which helps you prevent the usual stagnant air that you’d be hit with when your return home (with the AC system turned off) that’ll have you racing for the dial.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.