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The main distinction between a Building Survey and HomeBuyer Report is that the survey is a great deal extra thorough, and offers you a highly comprehensive testimonial on the condition of your home.

Both major types of property survey from RICS are the Building Survey as well as the HomeBuyer Report. Although it is down to you, as the owner or buyer, to pick which survey is the right one for your requirements, there are some guidelines in place to aid you determine.

A HomeBuyer Report is generally far better for properties that:

• were built within the last 100 years
• are of even more conventional style
• are constructed from typical building materials
• are in a practical problem, as far as you can inform

A Building Survey is generally much better for residential or commercial properties that:

• are much older and developed greater than 100 years ago
• have gone through significant expansion or change
• are a lot bigger as well as supply considerable holiday accommodation
• you plan to change in the future
• are of non-traditional fabrication.

How To Remove Flaking Paint From Exterior Walls

For a successful exterior wall painting project, all that’s required is the right painting tools and equipments, the appropriate exterior paint as well as the necessary preparation of the surface. With the later being perhaps the most important part of the project which is likely to take your time and effort as there’s no short cut to it. But once you have a good idea on how to prepare the exterior wall’s surfaces, the painting of the exterior of your house becomes a lot easier. And a good example of this, is the process of removing the flaking paint on the surface. Fortunately, you do not require the skills of an expert to be able to remove the flaking paint from your exterior walls. So let’s take a look at how you can remove flaking paint from your exterior walls with relative ease.

✓ Clear all flaking or peeling paint. This involves scraping the entire painted surface with a scraper to remove all loose paints. For the paints that wouldn’t yield easily, you can apply extra pressure to wipe it out. However, it’s important to be careful while doing this to avoid gouging out or damaging the surface.

✓ Use coarse sandpaper. Make use of a sandpaper to sand all the exterior wall’s surfaces until they’re smooth. When you get to tight spaces and trim, you can incorporate a sanding block to make your job easier and more effective. Note that a smoother surface will make for a better adhesion.

✓ Use an orbital or power sander. If the paint is peeling, you can scrape it off perfectly with the help of a power sander. This will help you in achieving a smooth surface on inaccessible edges and more.

Many doors are made to measure. If you require a non-standard door width, ask a professional door installation company to measure your aperture and manufacture a door to fit. It could be that a small amont of brickwork is needed to accomodate the new door.

Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.

Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.

In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.

If you’re planning to build a small extension on your property, you’ll most likely want to know the length of time it’ll take to complete the home extension. Just like many other home improvement projects, it’s impossible to provide a specific number of day in which your project will be completed as the duration is based on a number of influencing factors. This includes the size of the development work as well as whether or not you plan to live in the house when the work is being done. In this article, we’re going to give you a breakdown of the processes that’s involved in building a small single storey extension alongside the duration for each so you can have an idea of how long your small extension project will take. Let’s take a look!

✓ A small single storey extension will normally take about 3 months to be completed.

✓ Site preparation is the first step in the process and it’ll take up to 2 weeks the dig out the footings and prepare foundations. Followed by a further 2 weeks to fit the damp course as well as any drains required around the extension.

✓ The 5th week is spent on working on the external walls and putting in place blockwork to deliver cavity wall insulation.

✓ The next 2 weeks will be spent on installing the roof structure as well as internal walls.

✓ Once done. The builders will make the structure weather proof and electricians or gas fitters will be on site to add power to the extension. This will be followed by internal walls’ plastering as well as breaking into your main house.

✓ After this, when the plaster is dry and decoration completed, units or furniture will then be installed.

First and foremost, it must be stated that replacing an existing electric shower is much easier than fitting one from new. This is primarily due to the fact that the main components required which includes the water pipes as well as electrical connections will have already been established. In this post, we’re going to assume that all these are already in place which means you’re replacing an existing electric shower with a new one. It’ll also be an advantage if the preferred electric shower features cable and pipe entry points at the top and bottom as well as the rear and side so as to allow for more flexibility when it gets to routing cables and pipes. If you’re not confident enough to pull off this task, then it’s strong advisable to call in a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. Here are the steps you can follow to fit your electric shower:

• Disconnect the power supply as you probably know water and electricity aren’t particularly the best of friends. Once done, you’ll also need to turn off the water supply
• Remove the shower unit. Many shower units are secured with four screws which makes the removal rather straightforward.
• Examine the shower connection points to determine if they’re in the same place on the new unit as they were on the old one.
• Install the new shower unit. First, you’ll have to mark the position of the new units on the wall using a pencil. If the new units don’t possess the same silhouette as the old one, you’ll have to drill new ones preferably using a masonry drill bit.
• Check your installation at both the electrical and water supply to ensure the connection is made correctly.
• Test your new electric shower by turning the power and water supplies back on.

How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.

During a boiler service, your boiler engineer will perform a series of checks to ensure that your boiler is safe and efficient. First, they will conduct a visual inspection to check for any corrosion or leaks. They will also check the flame in your boiler. They’ll then remove the boiler casing and check all the components, including the heat exchanger, burner and spark probe, then clean the inside. After this, they’ll check the flue for obstructions and ensure that it’s safely fitted. They will then do a gas pressure check to ensure the boiler is working at the right pressure, before firing it up to check for any working faults.