Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Yateley.

1. After the installer’s measured up, given you an estimated output and recommended some systems for you, they’ll arrange date to come to your home to install the solar thermal panels. They’ll also let you know if any scaffolding will be required.
2. Next, they will start to fit the panels, or collectors, to your roof. Stainless steel brackets will be provided with the system and they will remove your roof tiles or slates to attach the brackets to the rafters. They’ll then replace the tiles and add waterproof flashing to ensure you don’t get any roof leaks, and add the frame.
3. If you’ve chosen evacuated tube solar thermal panels, the installer will bolt the heat transfer unit to the top of the frame but not install the tubes until nearer the end. This is because the tubes start to transfer heat to the exchanger immediately, and when everything is unconnected this could damage the unit.
4. If you don’t need a new boiler with your installation, a new dual coil water cylinder, pump and system control system will be fitted. It’s best in a loft or upper floor of your home.
5. A new thermal store or hot water tank that will store the heat provided by the solar system is much larger than a standard tank but it may fit in the spot of your old one. The installer will ensure that it’s connected to the mains cold water, your other heating source (such as a gas boiler or biomass boiler), immersion heater, temperature sensors and the solar collectors themselves.
6. Next they will install the pumping station, usually near the water tank. The expansion tank will be installed on the solar thermal loop, which is usually nearby. Its job is to prevent pressure changes that could damage the system.
7. You’ll get a heat generation meter which must be MCS-certified if you want to take advantage of the RHI, and any control equipment that comes with the system will be installed.
8. The installers will then bring the system to pressure by pumping the heat transfer liquid into the system up to a pressure of around 2 bar.
9. Finally, your MCS-registered installer will register your solar thermal system so you can apply for RHI payments of up to £525 per year.
So that’s the process of installing solar thermal panels. Remember – it's always best to use a professional to install any kind of renewable technology.

If you’re thinking of getting a new carpet, one of the most likely issues you’re going to face is how to identify the types of carpet as there are a plethora of options in the market today. Being able to identify types of carpet can go a long way to make sure you get the most suitable type for your home without having to pay a professional. In this post, we’re going to consider the types of carpets and how you can identify them with ease. Let’s take a look!

When it comes of carpet construction, there are two main types which are defined by how their fibres are attached to their backings. These includes:

1. Loop pile. These are carpets which the fibres are bent into the small loops. They’re known to be very durable and stain resistant, however they also have a low profile as well as a limited cushioning. The loop pile style encapsulates the following:
2. Level loop ( also referred to as Berber). This carpet type features short loops which stand up well in traffic areas.
3. Multi level loop. This implies that the tops of the loops are different in height so as to give the carpet a patterned texture.
4. Cut pile. These are carpet types that cut the yarn tips to ensure there isn’t any loops. They tend to be denser and softer when compared to loop pile. The types of cut pile includes plush, saxony, textured cut pile, frieze carpet and cable.

On the other hand, carpets are made from different synthetic and natural fibres with varying characteristics. These includes nylon (the most popular as its durable and, wear and stain resistant), olefin ( resistant to moisture, mildew and mold), acrylic (a cheaper alternative to wool) and wool (the premier carpeting option and the only natural fibre used in manufacturing carpets).

First and foremost, HETAS simply refers to Heating Equipment and Testing Approval Scheme. Several solid fuel and wood biomass appliances and systems’ installations are subject to the specified rules of Building Regulations while also being notifiable to the Local Authority in your area by the law. HETAS registered installers are able to self-certificate projects carried out by themselves which helps to prevent the need for the expensive and time consuming Building Notice application which would be made to the local Building Control Department.

Therefore, there are a number of benefits that you stand to derive by hiring a HETAS engineer to fit your solid fuel boilers. Now let’s have a look!

✓ HETAS is the only competent engineers scheme that specializes in solid fuel as well as wood biomass.

✓ All registered installers by HETAS are properly trained and assessed to be competent to carry out a great job.

✓ HETAS offers both technical and regulatory support to registrants.

✓ The HETAS scheme covers all the scope of work that an installer should be able to carry out such as dry appliances, solid mineral, wood biomass, appliances with boilers, wood, hot water and heating systems as well as re liningof chimneys.

✓ HETAS also publishes and makes available the list of approved appliances, fuels and equipment in order to help consumer, installers as well as the specifiers in selecting an installation that perfectly suits the consumers’ needs, while also complying the the provisions of the Building regulations and safety standards.

✓ HETAS also makes available the lists of installers, flue professionals, chimney sweeps as well as maintenance companies to help you to safely maintain your installation into the future.

✓ HETAS also helps consumers in resolving any problems of complaints in such a way to promote a fair and equitable result.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

Artexing a ceiling can be a tricky job, but whether you’re considering hiring a professional or DIY, it’s helpful to know how it’s done.

Artex is available either in a paste or powder form. The paste is ideal if you’re making small repairs or additions to an existing ceiling. But, if you have a whole ceiling to cover, the powder is more cost effective. When you’re ready to get started, you’ll need to mix the powder up with cold water according to the instructions.

It’s possible to artex over plaster, plasterboard or paint. If you have a plasterboard surface, you should tape and fill any joints or cracks before you begin. Plaster and plasterboard both require a coat of sealant or primer first. You can usually artex straight over paint, but any gloss paint should be sanded down, and any dark paints covered with a layer of white.

Artexing can get quite messy, so make sure you empty the room you’re working in as much as possible, lay down sheets and wear protective clothing and glasses. You might want to practice on a piece of board before you start on the ceiling.

Start by using a brush or roller to cover a 500 square cm area with a generous layer of artex. Then use a brush, comb or roller to create your chosen texture. Every time you do a new section of ceiling, try to blend it with the other sections you’ve done. Don’t be tempted to cover the whole ceiling before you start adding texture – the artex will dry too quickly for you to do it all in time.

Artex usually needs 12-24 hours in a well-ventilated space to dry completely.

An asbestos survey is a property inspection to check for the presence of asbestos. A professional will go around your building and look at and take samples of any materials that they think may contain asbestos. These will then be tested to see if asbestos is present.

There are two types of asbestos survey, a Management Asbestos Survey and a Refurbishment and Demolition Asbestos Survey. A Management Asbestos Survey is mainly conducted to check if any materials containing asbestos pose a risk to inhabitants during everyday use of a building. A Refurbishment and Demolition Asbestos Survey is designed to check for any asbestos exposure risks before building work is started on a property.

Driveways usually sink because they haven’t been laid properly. They may not have been dug deep enough, or the installer might not have used the right materials. This will need to be corrected at the earliest opportunity, although in extreme cases, the driveway may need to be completly be relaid.

In some situations, it is possible to remove asbestos from your home without holding a licence. However, unless you’ve had training on working with asbestos, it’s not a good idea to do the work yourself. In these cases, you’ll need to make sure you wear complete protective clothing, including a face mask and overalls, and disturb the material as little as possible. You’ll also need to find out the best place to dispose of your asbestos here [https://www.gov.uk/asbestos-in-home], and get rid of your protective clothing in the same place.

However, in many cases you’ll need a licence to do an asbestos removal job, so will need to call in a professional. This is also almost always the safest way to remove your asbestos too, so is generally the best option to go for.