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Aeration, like scarification, is another vital step to keeping your lawn looking healthy and vibrant. It involves making small holes in the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to get into the grass roots, helping them to grow deeply, and produce a much stronger lawn. It also helps to relieve compaction from the soil, which stops nutrients and air from circulating. But how do you aerate your lawn?

Before you start to aerate your lawn, it’s a good idea to scarify it first to get rid of any moss, dead grass and thatch. This involves vigorously raking your lawn to get all the organic matter up, then transferring it to your compost heap or disposing of it. Light scarification is best in the spring but you can heavily scarify it in the autumn.

If you’ve got a small lawn, you can use a hand-held hollow tine aerator or even a normal garden fork. Dig deep into your lawn’s surface with the fork, or push the aerator into the ground which will pull plugs, or cores, of soil out of the ground to create air holes. You can let the cores dry and then go over them with a lawn mower or rake to spread them evenly across your lawn. This will recycle all the nutrients in those parts of the soil and stimulate bacterial activity to break down unwanted thatch. Don’t leave them, because they will make your lawn look bumpy over time.

If you’ve got a larger lawn, you might find it easier to see if you can hire a petrol aerator. But there are also rolling aerators that have spikes on a cylinder and you just push along, or even aerator sandals that you can wear and just go to town on your grass!

If you’re thinking about hiring the services of a quantity surveyor for your next building project, then you might probably want to know how much its going to cost to enable you set a budget and start to plan. However, there’s no single and straightforward answer to this question as the price of a survey is dependent on a wide array of factors. The primary drivers include the scope of the construction, the complexity of the property, the level of skill required to make appropriate assessment of the property as well as the level of liability that will be covered by the quantity surveyor. In a more simpler terms, the cost of a quantity surveyor is determined by the size, age, condition, complexity and to some extent agreed purchase price.

Generally, most quantity surveyors are charged out at a rate of £100 per hour. And as a result, the price of a quantity survey is related to the number of hours that’s going to take to make an in depth assessment of the property. Typically, several quantity surveys will take up to half a day on site with a further half going to the production of the survey report. Consequently, it would be totally fair to say that a quantity survey would cost you anywhere within the range of £600 to £800 plus VAT. For a less detailed and simpler survey such as RICS Homebuyers Report and Valuation, you can expect to use only a couple of hours on site which will also be topped by a few hours of work in the report production. As a result, the normal cost of a Homebuyer survey would be between the range of £400 to £500 plus VAT. However, you should take note that the prices can vary on a geographical basis.

General construction work should be restricted to the following hours: Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm. Saturdays 8am to 1pm. Most councils advice that noisy work is prohibited on Sundays and bank holidays but you should check with your local council to confirm this.

Traditional heating system that features a solid fuel boiler makes use of wood or coal stoves. However, in modern times, biomass boilers have rapidly grown to become the popular solid fuel option. Not only are they very effective and efficient just like the other heating systems, but they’re also renewable due to the fact that they’re able totally carbon neutral as they burn plant based organisms as a great alternative to oil, gas and electricity. As a result, they’re a perfect choice of heating system for off-gird homes or properties.

We have two main types of solid fuel boiler, these includes the following:

✓ Solid fuel stoves. This is also referred to as wood burners. Although coal burners are also available in the market, but we’d only recommend using wood burners as coal can be highly polluting and also set to be banned as a domestic fuel by the government. The most popular options of wood burning is wood log but it can also be operated using wood chips or wood pellets. Due to the fact that they’re stand alone heaters, they can only warm up the room in which they’re fitted.

✓ Biomass boilers. The type of solid fuel heating system makes use of natural material to warm up a space. These natural materials may be wood chips, wood pellets, wood logs and even plant based organisms. How they operate is very similar to that of the traditional boilers. They’re able to provide both hot water and hating by burning fuel, however, the only carbon released into the air was previously absorbed by the wood fuel. As a result, they’re a carbon neutral renewable heating system. But in contrary to solid fuel stoves, they’re fed automatically via a hopper but there are also manually fed biomass boiler.

Insulating your loft roof comes with a wide range of benefits. Not only do you get to maintain a comfortable temperature in your house for longer, but you’ll also get to cut down on your heating bills. If you wish to insulate your loft roof, you’ve come to the right place! This process can be very tedious and time consuming especially if you don’t what you’re doing or lack the required confidence to pull it off. It’s advisable to hire the services of a reputable professional who can guarantee the best results for help and also save you some time and money that can come from potentially costly errors.

Before you start rolling out, you’d have to make sure that all cracks, gaps and holes in the ceiling are filled with either a standard filler or decorators caulk. You can also clean between between the gaps in the joists thoroughly. And finally, check for hazards that can cause you problems before getting stated.

• Remember to leave ventilation gaps as you start from the eaves. Then work towards the loft’s centre, starting from the point furthest from the hatch.
• Lay the first layer between the joists which should be 100 mm and then the subsequent layer should be 170 mm to make it up to the recommended 270 mm.
• Carry the electric cables above the insulation and work around visible light fittings.
• Cut the roll in the centre of the floor when rolling out from the eaves on both sides with the help of a craft knife. Ensure that there are no gaps between the insulation and the joists’ edges.
• Lag pipes as you go in order to prevent walking over the insulation to get back to them.
• Ensure that the loft is totally insulated
• Insulate the hatch.

Just like other major house improvement projects, some specific requirements must be met to allow for the installation of solar panels on commercial buildings. The main reason why these standards and regulations were established is to minimize the risk of the solar system becoming an issue or potential hazard in the unforeseeable future. So if you’re thinking about buying and fitting new solar panels, you’ll probably want to know whether or not you’ll require to submit a planning permission application for approval before you can proceed.

Fortunately, the installation of solar panels on commercial buildings may be “permitted development which mean you won’t have to apply to the Local Planning Authority for planning permission. There are, however, some important limits and conditions which must be put into consideration in order to benefit from these permitted development rights. Some of the limitations include:

• The solar panels must be installed on a wall or pitched roof that should project at a maximum of 200mm from the surface of the wall or roof slope.
• Equipment placed on a roof should not be within one metre of the external edge of that roof.
• Equipment mounted on a wall must not be within one metre of a junction of that wall with another wall or with the roof of the building
• If the equipment is on the roof of a building, the capacity for generation of electricity across the entire site must not be more than 1 megawatt.
• In the situation whereby the panels are installed on a flat roof, the highest part of the equipment should not exceed one metre above the highest part of the roof.

In general, obtaining a planning permission is very important and as such, you must discuss your position with your chosen installation company before you proceed.

How To Draw A Garden Landscaping Plan

Are you thinking about constructing a new garden landscape? Do you have an existing one but forgot where you planted those tulip bulbs the previous autumn? Or perhaps you’re just trying to identify the exact spot where you cut back that clump of wilted foxglove, without mistakenly digging it up. For everything to be much easier when it comes to a garden landscape, it’s always a wise decision to draw a garden landscaping plan.

To get started, let’s take a look at the materials you’ll need to acquire. These includes a piece of white paper on which the existing elements on your garden will be plotted, a piece of tracing paper and tape to give options for planned additions, a pencil, an eraser as well as a measuring tape.

For more accuracy while drawing your plan, you’ll need to measure the garden’s distances, perimeter, the existing garden beds size as well as the trees’ and shrubs’ shape and size.

• Write down the measurements taken on the scrap paper.

• Assuming it’s a medium sized backyard garden that’s 18 feet wide, we allocated a scale of 3 feet to equal an inch.

• Using a piece of white paper (could be graph if you wish) and a pencil, carefully outline the perimeter of the space. Once done, you can then sketch in the existing plants as well as other special features on the space (features that are of a permanent nature like trees, fences and paths).

• Hold a piece of tracing paper and tape in on top. Then you can sketch out the plants you wish to add to fill in the spaces in the garden on the tracing paper.