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1. Unroll your two pieces of artificial grass, ensuring that the pile is running in the same direction. Fold over each piece by about 300m.
2. To get the perfect seam, cut at least 3 tufts back, ensuring that you don’t trim any grass blades.
3. Either remove the backing on your self-adhesive tape and unroll it down the centre of the join, or roll it out ensuring that the shiny side is down then fix at either end with adhesive.
4. Fold over the grass onto the tape and bring each piece together, ensuring there’s a 2-3mm gap at the seam.
5. Where the pile runs over the edge of the seam, fold over the artificial grass.
6. Apply a small amount of adhesive under the edge of the first section of grass with a mastic gun, then add some to the front edge to stick the second piece.
7. Bring the seam together, ensuring that you don’t get any grass blades stuck. Place a plank with some heavy objects on over the join to ensure that it dries securely.

Competent Roofer is a scheme that allows professionals to self-certify that their work is in line with Building Regulations. If you don’t use a registered Competent Roofer, you’ll have to pay your local authority to certify the work, so we recommend you use a Competent Roofer to save yourself extra outlay at the end.

Unlike the photovoltaic (PV) power which works to turn a part of the electromagnetic radiation of the sun directly to electrons and electricity, a solar thermal can simply be referred to as the absorption of the sun’s heat for human use. As a result, the solar thermal has a wider range of uses than the PV does in several ways. This is due to the fact that the sun’s heat can be absorbed and transported via a medium and the stored energy incorporated for several great purposes such as to heat water, to heat and cool a home or living space, to prepare a meal as well as to generate electricity. All these functions are useful for both residential and commercial spaces.

There are generally three different ranges of solar thermal energy that are being used which includes the low temperature ( for heating, cooling as well as ventilation), the mid temperature ( used for preparing meals, heating hot water and the likes) as well as the high temperature ( used for generating electricity). To focus more on generating electricity, there are a wide array of ways through which the sun’s heat can be directed at creating electricity via a heat exchanger which operates to super heat water or inert gas to power an electricity- generating plant or to produce electricity via a Stirling engine.

In order to increase their output or make them more efficient, evacuated glass tubes are used to encircle the tubes which in turn helps them to collect more heat energy while also protecting them from re-radiating the heat energy absorbed. The trough are normal positioned north to south as well as to keep tabs on the travels of the sun throughout the day.

Aside from the cold weather not being the most pleasant condition to work in, the winter weather can also cause a lot of problems for construction workers and even more so when you’re working with render. Poor weather conditions can generally cause a lot of harms on the final finish of a render. Below are some of the reasons why you should not consider rendering in a bad weather.

✓ Lime bloom. Render can be impacted by lime bloom as they are subjected to damp conditions and low temperatures while curing. This is due to the fact that cement are intolerant to slower drying conditions especially immediately affect its application.

✓ Top coats can be compromised. Coating are likely to get washed off before they’re even afforded the chance to set if drying conditions are low.

However, because its cold out there doesn’t necessarily imply that work must stop. It’s very possible to render during the winter months but to avoid potential pitfalls, we’ve got some tip that can be of great help. Let’s have a look!

✓ Check the weather forecast. Determine the drying and curing time and watch the forecast for the temperature dropping at night.

✓ Select the most suitable render. There are renders that are suitable for application in low temperatures to about 5℃ or even as low as 1℃. These types of render are fast setting which makes them perfect for the cold condition.

✓ Watch out for frost. Frost and render are enemies. Therefore, it won’t be wise to work with frosted materials, on frosted subtrates or apply below the recommended temperature that’s written on the product’s datasheet.

✓ Protect the finish. Make use of artificial enclosures around the scaffolding to battle adverse weather conditions.

The task of installing a tile roof can be quite a difficult one. Such a project takes a great deal of preparation, well before the actual tile installation is done. It does not matter if you are putting new ones or replacing your old tiles, understanding the proper technique and steps become crucial.

Remove old roofing (if applicable).

This is, on its own, a major job that can take days and require special tools. It takes some time, but be prepared to do it right.

Install battens (if applicable).

Battens may be needed to hold the tiles in place if the roof is having a steep slope. Usually made of metal or wood, battens are generally 1 inch thick and run horizontally along the roof.

You can find several varieties of tiles that has a hook or a lip allowing it to hang on the available battens. Apart from this, you can find several clips in the market which help to attach the tiles on to the batten.

Determining the spacing for battens can be done easily using two tiles. To prevent interlocking, a three inch overlap is required at the minimum, and a smaller amount of overhang should be left over the eaves. Keep this in mind when you determine the locations of the battens.

After you have determined the distance between the first two battens, measure the distance and set battens using that spacing up, making sure to double-check measurements as you go along.

• Install the tiles.

• You will need to begin with one side first, and then continue to move along the length of the roof.

• Cut tiles to fit tight spots.

• Tiles have to be cut precisely to overcome any obstacle like the chimney.

• Install the ridge tiles.

After completing the broad surfaces of the roof, special ridge tiles are required to cap the top.

When people talk about finishes on a wooden conservatory, there are a few different things that they may be referring to. Some may be referring to the colour and type of wood used to build the conservatory, but they may also be talking about the type of treatment used to protect the wood from the weather. We’ll cover both bases for what finish is best on a wooden conservatory here.

When you’re thinking about the best wood type and finish for the conservatory, it’s best to go with a hardwood. There are both hardwoods and softwoods, and hardwoods are the most durable. Oak is the most expensive choice but is also the most durable, so lots of people decide to go for this option. Other good choices that are slightly cheaper are Brazilian cedar and idigbo. Softwoods like European redwood or Siberian larch are cheaper still, but they won’t last as long, so it may work out more cost-effective to spend more on a hardwood.

Wood is a natural material, so it’s important to look after your wooden conservatory to prevent it from rotting or getting attacked by bugs and pests. Your conservatory will be exposed to all weathers, so you’ll need to use a good finish to ensure that it stays in tip-top condition for years to come. Your installer should be able to tell you what’s best, but some of the best finishes for a wooden conservatory include breathable varnishes and decking oil. However, if you do use an oil, it’s best to use a preservative treatment too; oil will only repel water. Joints are particularly susceptible to water penetration, so make sure you use a good wood treatment and focus on areas where water would pool during rain. Then you can apply a decking oil afterwards.

After being in the shadows of conservatories for so long, Orangeries are now pulling a great comeback into the scenes. They were quite popular back in the 17th and 18th century, but went into the drawers with the advent of conservatories. In recent times, Orangeries are now becoming more and more popular with several homeowners now looking to have one constructed in their homes.

Like many other home improvements or extensions, orangery prices can vary based on a number of factors. However, you can expect to incur within the range of £15,000 to £20,000 for a basic orangery design and build. If you wish to build orangeries with more distinctive features, this price can jump up to £50,000 or more depending on your preferences. Generally, orangeries are more likely to be a bit cheaper when compared to their conventional extension counterparts and add more value to your home than a conservatory in terms of a resale.

For the best results, it’s advisable to investing good money to ensure a solid build and save money in the fittings. Do not look to cut costs by going for cheaper building materials like poor quality vines. Generally, interior design will always depreciate in value, but its the solid structure that command great value for resale purposes. Also, when the structure is solid and of a great quality, you’ll get to save a lot of repair money down the line as the cheaper frames will always give way with time. However, if you have the money, you can also consider spending huge bucks on both the structure as well as the fittings because its only through this you truly maximize the benefits from your orangery. When the fittings are of great quality, repairs won’t come often which ultimately saves you some money as well.