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Whether you think resin bound driveways are expensive or not will depend on your perception. While resin bound driveways are the most expensive up front, they should last much longer than other types of driveway. You should expect a resin bound driveway to last at least 25 years, if not longer, while a concrete or asphalt driveway may last between 15-20 years. A pattern imprinted driveway may last even less time due to the maintenance required to keep them looking pristine.

It’s also worth considering that resin bound driveways are good permeable surfaces, so will drain well and keep water from pooling around your property. This will keep your property maintenance costs down, since pooling water or flooding around your home could cause damp in your walls which is a very expensive problem to fix.

Resin bound driveways are by far the most attractive type of driveway to have. There are no loose stones to sweep up, no weeds to pull out from the gaps, and there’s no extensive power washing required to keep them looking good. If you want a driveway that gives your home true kerb appeal and you value your time, resin bound driveways don’t seem that expensive.

The other factor that can make resin bonded driveways less expensive is that sometimes you can lay them on top of the existing surface. For example, if you already have a concrete or asphalt driveway that is in good condition with no large cracks, a driveway contractor may be able to lay the resin and aggregate mix straight over the top, which will cost much less money than if you have to dig up the existing driveway and start from scratch.

Unfortunately, you can’t fix the glass on one side of a double glazed window. That’s because they’re sealed units – once one pane of glass is broken, that will break the seal and its thermal insulation properties will be lost.

The good news is that if your window frame is still looking great, there’s no need to replace that. You can simply replace the glass in the window, which will cost much less. You can look to spend around £250 on a sealed unit, whereas a whole replacement single window may cost up to £600.

When an installer comes to replace the glass in your double glazed window, they will survey the inside and outside of your home around the window, then move any furniture by the window so they’ve got access. They should then pop a dust sheet down to stop any debris from getting on your floor.

Then, the installer will carefully remove the beads from the frame. They will then lift the glass out of the frame and put it somewhere safe before cleaning out all of the dust and any debris that has found its way into the frame. Using spacers at the bottom of the frame, the installer will make sure that the sealed unit is square in the frame to get a good fit. Once they’re happy, they will replace the beading and make sure it looks perfect before cleaning up their tools.

You could have a go at replacing the glass on a double glazed window yourself, but it’s not recommended. Leave it to the professionals who will know exactly what to do and will be able to do it quickly and safely.

Most companies will recommend that exterior painting and decorating is carried out in the summer months. However, advances in paint technology mean that some paints can be applied in low temperatures and even when it’s raining. Check the can for the best conditions in which to apply or ask a professionals advise.

How To Plaster A Ceiling

Generally, plastering is a very tricky and time consuming job which usually require lots of efforts and practice to get right - with that in mind it gets even a lot trickier when it comes to ceiling plastering.

However, when you’re able to acquire the right know-how as well as tools, ceiling plastering can be completed by any confident DIYer enthusiast without the need to call in a professional. However, if you lack the needed confidence to pull off this task, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the ceiling plastering process.

You’ll need the following materials to get started: plaster, mixing bucket and paddle, plasterer’s float, plasterer’s towel, bucket trowel, protective gear, bucket of clean water and wide brush.

✓ Prepare the area. When it comes to plastering a ceiling it’s almost unavoidable to leave a mess around and no matter how you do it, your plaster will drop on the floor. Therefore you have put drop sheets on the floor, cover the furniture and put thing you don’t want to get dirty out of the way.

✓ Prepare the ceiling to be plastered. Sand down the uneven patches on the ceiling. Once done, wash the ceiling with a sponge and warm soapy water while also removing all cobwebs as well. Leave the surface to dry once completed.

✓ Mix the plaster or buy a premix plaster. To mix the plaster, simply use equal parts of plaster and water for mixing the plaster,

✓ Plaster the ceiling. Apply a little quantity of plaster to the edge of your trowel and try to spread it in rows to do the job without much hassle. Ensure that the thickness of the coat is thin and even throughout the application. The rough edge of the trowel should be used for the spreading as it’ll help you create scrapes or scratches in the plaster.

✓ Sand the surface

Can You Tile Over Floor Tiles?

Are you about to tackle a refurbishment or renovation project? If yes, then you might be worried about the removal of your old tiles before installing the new ones. Being fully aware that this process can be time and money consuming, it can only make sense to consider whether you can tile on existing tiles. The answer is yes, however, there are a few details you must take into account when embarking on this cost-effective journey. Here’s our advice:

lSelect The New Tiles

• Take into consideration the surface behind the tiles and the weight it’ll be able to withstand.

• For plasterboard, the surface can withstand about 30kg to 32kg per m2 (28.5kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 3.5kg of adhesive and grout).

• For skimmed plasterboard, the surface can hold about 18kg to 20kg per m2 ( 16kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 4kg of adhesive and grout )

• Consider the existing tiles, if heavy enough, then your choice for the new tiles should very light.

lPrepare Old Tiles

• Confirm that the old tiles are well glued to the substrate.

• Check that the tiles are level. If not, use a grinder to flatten out any humps.

• Remove the sealer for the old tiles, if any.

• Clear out all dust and dirt.

lLay New Tiles

• Spread a layer of flexible adhesive.

• Lay the new tiles

lFinish The Project

• Fill the joints with an appropriate tile grout.

• Seal the edges with a sealant.

It’s as simple as that! However, it must be said that if you’re lacking the appropriate training or experience to pull this off, then you probably would not want the first trial on your prized asset. For a top quality job and to avoid unnecessary costs, you can reach out to a tiling professional for help.

Before the commencement of any project, it’s always best to get an estimation of the cost. However, determining the cost of an external solid wall insulation is not the easiest of tasks as it relies on varying components such as the insulation materials to be used, labour cost and installation as well as the type of decorative finish to be incorporated. And depending on your choice of insulation material, some may need some adhesives while others may require some fixings which also contributes to the differences in price. As a result, the determination of the material cost alone can be tricky and even more so when various materials cover varying areas.

With that in mind, the cost of external solid wall insulation generally ranges between £80 to £100 per square metre2. As a result, a small flat can cost from £6000 to £9000 whereas a large detached house can have a price ranging between £21000 to £23000. To earn back your investment in terms of energy bill savings can take a couple of years, but it’s surely worth the try as there are several other benefits associated with installing an external solid wall insulation system. What’s more? Another huge factor that can influence the cost of your system is also the amount of work that’s required, how easy it is to be accessed by the installers and lots more

If you’re looking to cut down on the cost of your external solid wall insulation, then the best time for an installation might just be when you’re having another decorating or building project done such as fitting a new roof, window painting, installation of solar PV panels and more. This way, you’ll be able to spread the cost and have a greater value for each penny expended.

What Is The Smallest Opening For Bifold Doors?

Generally, bifold doors comes in a wide range of sizes and configurations. So if you’re looking to install them in your home, the opening size required will depend on multiple influencing factors. However, the question we’re going to look at here is the smallest opening for bifold doors.

First and foremost, let’s consider the size of bifold doors as learning about how big or small bifold doors can play a key role in helping you determine the size of bifold door you’ll need. Generally, the size of bifold doors will vary largely depending on the manufacturer, but they are usually within the range of 6.8 feet and 7 feet in height. The width, however, will be determined by the number of door panels you’d like to use but several configurations are designed in such a way that they can be installed in openings of about 1.8m and above. For each door panel, the size are usually between 500 and 1000mm in width. As a result, if you decide to opt for door panels with a width of 700mm, you’ll need to get about 3 of the door panels in order to install in an aperture that’s wider than 1.8m. What’s more? Door panels can also be custom made especially if the size you need isn’t available.

So with that in mind, what’s the smallest opening for bifold doors? The bifold door’s minimum width is 1400mm. And in order to install a bifold door to fill this size, you’ll require two individual door panels that’s 700mm in width. Building them any smaller than the minimum width will be unwise as this will make them bind when closing.

If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.

So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.

• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.

• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.

• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).

• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.

• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.

• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.

• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.