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The most serious form of fungal decay is dry rot which occurs when the moisture levels of a timber is about 20 percent. It targets timber in buildings and feeds off the part of the wood which gives it its strength.it is able to produce moisture through the digestion of timber and as a result, does not require any source of moisture to spread. Once the dry rot is able to spread, it can severely impact and compromise the structural integrity of the house or building. If you think you may have dry rot on your building, the best solution would be to call on a professional to conduct a survey of your premises and have it treated as soon as possible if positive. If the dry rot is not identified and treated as soon as possible, you may have to remove and replace all the affected timber later on. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of treating dry rot by yourself. Let’s take a look!

• The initial treatment stage of dry rot is to identify the moisture source and have it repaired. Once done, you’ll have to ascertain the full extent of the dry rot outbreak. To achieve this, simply open up the affected area by removing the plaster and render in all directions while also removing flooring and lifting floorboards. Once done, you should be in the best position to determine the full extent of the infected timbers.
• Proceed to cutback the timbers in-situ to a minimum of 500mm beyond the last signs of fungal growth or the strands of hyphae.
• Remove all fruiting bodies and detectible spores. Clean the wall areas to eradicate surface growth using a stiff brush if necessary.
• Replace the timber with pre-treated timber.
• Treat the new and old timber with a dual purpose dry rot treatment fluid and sterilise the masonry.

It can be easy to repair a felt flat roof depending on the problem. If you’ve got an old-style pour-and-roll felt flat roof, you might be starting to run into problems, but even if you have a newer torch-on felt roof, issues can occur. You might find cracks, lifting, leaking flashings or dips and hollows in the felt. Luckily, there are some easy fixes – but the best thing to do to prolong the life of your felt flat roof is to get a professional to look at it.

If your felt flat roof only needs a small repair, you might be able to get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin that you just brush on. However, if you want a more permanent fix, you’ll need a few more tools and supplies.

You can use a patch of torched-on roofing felt over the crack or leak, but if your flat roof is very damaged or wet it might not take it. You can also buy liquid systems for felt roofs, but again, there is a possibility that your roof might not take it. Also most of the high-quality liquid systems are only available for trade customers, so you might be better off asking a roofing pro to do it for you.

What Is The Average Cost To Replace A Flat Roof?

Are you interested in knowing how much it costs to replace a flat roof? Here, you’ll discover a price breakdown for replacing flat roof. This includes a number of price determining factors such as materials costs as well as cost of labour and cost per square metre. All these enables you to make easy calculations so that you can determine a flat roof replacement estimate for your own project.

The type of flat roof that is the most common type is the garage roof and for the replacement of a single garage roof, the cost will fall between the range of £700 to £1000. Meanwhile for a double garage, you should expect a price increase of about 40 percent to 50 percent. The main price determinant that’s affecting the price of a new flat roof is the material incorporated in making it. For instance, lead or fibreglass are much more expensive when compared to felt roofs.

Generally, the cost of a flat roof replacement will fall within the range of £700 to £1300 varying largely due to the type of materials to be used by the roofer, the roof’s size as well as whether or not scaffolding would be used. Multiple flat roof applications also comes with different costs which includes:

• Felt roof ( £40 to £60 per square metre).

• Fibreglass roof ( £70to £90 per square metre ).

• Rubber roof ( £80 to £85 per square metre ).

• Lead bay roof ( £90 to £105 per square metre ).

• Fibreglass bay roof ( £40 to £60 per square metre ).

Several professional roofers work in pairs and to hire them you’re likely to be charged between £200 to £300 per day. The project can be completed with just a day’s work, but the installer should be back to make sure there are no leaks.

Whether you need toughened glass in your windows depends on where the windows are in your home or business. Toughened glass is sometimes referred to as tempered or safety glass, and it just means it’s stronger than the standard glass that’s usually offered with double glazed windows. So how do you know if you need it?

Toughened glass is useful in areas of your home where you might come into contact with the windows if you were to trip and fall. If you put your hands out to steady yourself on standard glass the chances are it would break into large sharp pieces with jagged edges. Of course, this means that you could seriously cut yourself if this were to happen. With toughened glass, the structure of the glass is changed so that if it breaks it shatters into lots of tiny pieces, minimising the risk to you if you were to fall on it.

You might want to use toughened glass in patio doors, low windows or frames next to doors. It just means that you will be safer if the unlikely happens and you or a family member falls through the glass. There are certain requirements through Building Regulations with windows at a certain level, but any reputable window installer should be able to go through these with you if you need to replace your windows with toughened glass. The regulations will only apply to new windows – there's no need to switch your windows to toughened glass early, but when you do come to replace them you’ll need to make sure they meet the standard.

There are a huge range of worktops on the market. In terms of material, worktops can be laminate, wood, natural stone (granite etc.) or metal. Worktops are available in a massive variety of styles and colours, to suit any style of interior decoration.

Getting its name from it’s original use and commonly mistaken for conservatories, orangeries were developed about four hundred years ago to help protect citrus fruits from the winter frosts. An orangery is basically a room extension featuring a flat perimeter roof, brick base as well as a central roof lantern including doors and windows. Even though it originates from Italy and made more modern by Holland’s architectural development, orangeries have grown to become an ubiquitous phenomenon within the British society with thousands of the extension being built every year. They’re built in a similar way to conservatories, however, orangeries are typically developed from a brick base and usually making use of a stone or brick pillars to provide support to a flat roof perimeter. Also, the common choice for an orangery is a central roof lantern including glass panels or vent windows. Unlike conservatories which usually make use of patio doors, orangeries are more likely to have more complex bi-folding door system - enhancing the visual appeal of the extension in a more unique and stylish way.

Orangeries typically incorporates less glass when compared to a conservatory - thereby, allowing a moderate amount of natural light into the space. This way, you would not have to go outdoors to enjoy the sunlight during the summer months. Generally, the extension also offers a atrium-style ceiling height while also protecting your space from excessive sunlight and adding character to your home.

In conclusion, orangeries are an excellent choice when it comes to extending your home - be it to make a room larger or adding a new room all together. Ultimately, they go a long way to add incredible value to your home for resale purposes. Orangeries are best installed by seasoned professionals in order to ensure the best outcome.

How To Tile An Uneven Wall

Do you know it’s almost impossible to find a wall in any home that’s fully flat and vertical? Just like floors, walls also have areas of imperfection or where they’re a bit uneven. When it comes to tiling, these are the problematic areas in which you must work around and identify how to solve to achieve a perfect finish. If not, you may as well just have the tiles sticking out and making room for moisture to creep in affecting the longevity of your project.

There a variety of options to tackle an uneven wall surface and one of the best is plastering. To make sure the surface of your wall is even, a great step would be to plaster it. Plastering of a wall can be a very simple task, however, if you lack proper training or experience, you might want to consider getting a skilled professional to handle the project for you. Making sure the surface of your wall is even is a crucial step in the tile installation process and can be quite tricky on your first trial.

Uneven wall is usually as a result of two major factors - sagging of the wall over time and the wall’s surface is not completely flat. To solve this, you’d have to detach the boards. Then, attach a new board and re-skim the walls to create a new flat and even surface you can work on. For small imperfections and dips, simply use an adhesive cement to fill in the gaps in the plaster. This approach is perfect for holes and ding with a depth that’s not more than half a centimetre. When the cement is totally dry, you can sand it to achieve a flat finish. Happy Tiling!

Are you thinking about updating your bathroom? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how to go about it. Well, when it comes to bathroom remodelling, the process always begins with the drawing of a floor plan. If you don’t know how to go about that, then you’ve come to the right place! In this guide, we’re going to take you through the bathroom floor plan drawing process. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, you can make use of the pencil and paper approach as it happens to be much cheaper than the computer based approach. Plus, you don’t have to be an art genius in school to complete the task satisfactorily.

1. Sketch it out. Create a rough sketch of the space on unlined paper. This should feature all openings like the doors and windows, the spots where the existing plumbing fixtures are located, the location of the electrical lines including outlets, receptacles, heating and cooling pipes and more
2. Add dimensions to the sketch. The next line of action would be to take measurements of the bathroom. With the help of a friend, hold the tape tightly at both ends in order to get the right dimensions. Then, measure the length of the walls, fixtures, windows and mark then roughly on the sketch. Once done, you can go back to double check the recorded measurements for accuracy.
3. Transfer the room dimensions to a sheet of graph paper. At the stage in the process, you should be aware that each 1/4 inch square on the graph paper is equal to 6 inches or half foot. You can start by drawing the bathroom walls and partitions as well as the surrounding areas. Then, add the doors and the direction they swing open and the windows present. Once done, draw the fixtures to complete the floor plan.