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How To Remove Tile Floor

Removing old tile can be a very tricky process which require lots of skills and experience to get right, the first time. Here, you’ll learn the best approach to removing your old tile by yourself. During the removal process, be sure to incorporate the necessary tools while also protecting yourself by putting on the recommended safety requirements. These includes a floor scraper, paint scraper, dust mask, handheld chisel, safety glasses, drop sheet as well as leather gloves or top quality riggers.

Tile Removal Process

lBreak The First Tile

• Use a hammer to break the first tile (target the centre of the tile with the hammer).

• To protect yourself from the sharp edges of the broken tile, use a drop sheet to cover the surfaces.

lRemove The First Tile

• With a chisel, remove the broken tile that’s still bonded on the floor.

• Position the chisel on the grout line at the tile’s edge to remove the broken but glued tile.

lBreak Up The Remaining Tiles

• Break up several tiles at once and use the floor scrapper to remove it.

• Ensure that the bonding agent used is pliable to make the job a soft work. If the bonding agent is a bit more permanent in nature, then you might want to consider a dynamite to dislodge the flooring.

lRemove The Mortar

• Hit the mortar with a hammer on a 2 to 3 foot square section to remove it from the underlayment.

• Scrape off the mortar’s broken pieces using a floor scraper

• In the event whereby most of the mortar is not removed, your best bet would be to change the underlayment.

• Bonding agent (adhesive) removal is not the easiest of tasks. To make it a bit simpler, you can softening the adhesive with a heat gun before scraping with the help a wide putty knife.

Tile removal is not only a tedious task, but can also be harmful if adequate care is not taken. If you’re inexperienced or not well trained, we’d recommend you hire the services of a professional to avoid making mistakes and incurring extra costs.

Fitting a wall hung toilet in your home or property bring about a plethora of benefits. Not only are they a feat of modern washroom design, but they’re also able to offer a wealth of practical benefits. Given the fact that the cistern and pipework are all going to be concealed within a duct system, the areas that’ll be exposed is significantly reduced. This, ultimately, protects them from accidental damage and tampering, and also leaves a flush, easy to clean surface which goes a long way to improve the hygiene in your washroom.

Fitting a wall hung toilet can be a tricky and time consuming task especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, it’s advisable to hire the services of a plumber who can guarantee the best results for help. So how do you fit a wall hung toilet?

• Complete the 1st fix plumbing works. This should be done before the installation of the IPS panels and cubicles.
• Fit the stainless steel frame to the wall. High Pressure Laminate and solid grade Laminate IPS panels usually comes with pre-clipped metal DUCT set framing. Simply unclip the panels and number them on the back. Fix Unistrut to the back wall of where the new IPS DUCT will be positioned. Once done, you can then fit the stainless steel framework and fix the frame with M10 bolts to where it makes contact with the wall and floor.
• Wall hung pan support frame. This involves bolting the frame into the floor and back wall of the newly created void
• Lining up your toilet. Make sure that your toilet pan are marked out even and spaced before hanging it to enable cubicle enclosures that’ll be fitted later on.
• Cisterns, flush kits and cut outs. This invloves cutting out holes on the solid grade laminate IPS panels to allow for you push butoon or sensor flush control, waste outlet, flush cone and fixing rods. Once done, clip back the IPS panels to the stainless steel DUCT set frame.
• Second fixing your wall hung toilet pan and controls.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

uPVC is unplasticised polyvinyl chloride. It is a favourite amongst homeowners and manufacturers for its cheap production cost and excellent benefits. uPVC is used for window frames, conservatories and doors. In fact, uPVC can be three times cheaper than wooden frames and is also the most energy efficient option.As well as this, uPVC is now available in a range of colours other than the typically seen bright white finish. It can also be recycled, is durable and resistant to changing weather conditions.

One of the major source of concern for several home and property owners in London when it comes to heating and cooling systems is whether its really necessary to use an air conditioning system throughout the year or just a couple of months a year. Well, if you’re also worried about the this, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to consider why making use of an air conditioning system is essential all-year round. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is, it depends. However, if you really want to have a total control over your own comfort at home, then the answer is yes. In fact, most individuals who have installed heating and cooling systems with the intention of only using it in July and August usually find themselves making use of it all through the year and having a more sound sleep than ever before. What’s more? London is known to have uncomfortable and inconsistent temperatures all year long. If you intend to use your system for a specified couple of months, you may just be shocked to discover when you’ll need it the most may be outside your selected usage period.

In a move to protect older properties or an apartment complex, most landlords in London usually won’t give permission to enable structural changes. As a result, this has given several Londoners the impression that they’ll have to just cope with the heat and cold all throughout the year. In this kind of situation, all that’s needed is the installation of internal air conditioning units which does not need any penetration through the exterior wall to be fitted.

Are you interested in extending your home to create more living space? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how much value it can add to your property in order to compare the building costs to the potential value gain. Well, as long as you know what you’re doing, your house doesn’t necessarily have to be a money pit. So what are your options when talking about home extensions and what’s the associated value to be gained?

• Bathroom Extensions

Although you should have it in mind that bathroom extensions isn’t usually that cheap, but once done, it can increase the value of a standard UK house within the range of £12,000 to £15,000. Meanwhile the finishing cost of a bathroom can range from £2,500 to £7,000.

• Single or Double Storey Extensions

Single storey extensions are always huge when it comes to increasing the value of your home - giving about 4 to 7 percent increase. If it goes that far, then literally nothing beats a full spectrum, double storey extension which can give up to 11 percent increase in the value of a property - equalling about a whooping £33,000 for a standard home in the UK.

• Conservatory Extension

With conservatories becoming more and more popular in the UK due to the weather conditions, several buyers are now including it’s availability as part of the criteria for purchasing a house. Wonder why? This is simply because everyone wants to enjoy their garden all throughout the year. As a result of this high demand, adding this type of extension to your house can go a long way to increase it’s value. However, it’s very important to incorporate high quality materials during construction. With glass conservatories offering, on the average, up to £5,000 increase in value, the cheaper PVC alternative offers much less value and can also deter potential buyers.

The most commonly used driveway surfacing materials are gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving - which can be block, slabbed or patten imprinted. Take a look at our product information pages to help you decide which one to use and which one will look best for your driveway.

Just like every other thing in your house, your double glazed windows have an expected lifespan attached to it as it gradually becomes less functional and less efficient over time. Although there are actually top quality windows which are able to last a very long time, but the fact still remains that nothing can stand the test of time or last forever. Even the best quality double glazed windows will eventually need to be replaced at some point. So exactly how long do double glazing windows last before need a replacement?

To make it brief, most double glazing window units are typically expected to last an average of 20 years. This number of years can, however, vary within the range of 10 to 35 years based on the several factors such as the type, quality of materials as well as installation and where the windows are located.

The reason for the depreciation in double glazing windows is, over time, the windows may be subjected to some wear, tear as well as all kinds of minor damages which includes gas filled insulated glazing unit slowly and gradually leaking. According to the Centre for Sustainable Energy, the evaporation of 25 percent of gas will ultimately minimize the windows’ thermal performance. And when this occurs, fitting a secondary glazing measure or replacing the windows should be put into consideration.

Another factor leading to the gradual depreciation in double glazing windows over time has to do with condensation. When the window collects between the layers of glass due to the failure of the seal of the perimeter and the saturation of the desiccant, can only be solved by IGU replacement.

And finally, the ravages of time also has a way of taking its toll on double glazing windows. This can happen in so many ways such that the window becomes a lot less efficient and later needing to be replaced.