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Unwanted graffiti by a random artist on your property, be it residential or commercial, can be extremely frustration to say the least. Not only does it encourage further acts of vandalism and reduces the value of your property, but it can also deter your visitors or customers. The list goes on and on, however, one thing you should know is removing graffiti can be a tedious and time-consuming task. And that’s exactly where graffiti prevention comes in! By taking preventative measures, you can avoid having to incur the expenses or pass through the stress that comes with graffiti removal. So, what are the preventative actions you can utilize to deter such vandals? Well, there are a number of measures that can be incorporated, these includes maintenance, fencing, paint colour, protective coatings, vegetation, security, lighting as well as report.

• Maintenance involves keeping your property clean and tidy to pass the message across that you take good care of your property and any act of vandalism wouldn’t be tolerated.
• Fencing your property with a metal cyclone or natural materials such as bamboo or bush reed or bar fencing which doesn’t offer the flat continuous surface which graffiti vandals prefer. Textured surfaces are also tricky to spray paint.
• Paint colour. The use of dark colours to paint your walls and fences will discourage vandals as graffiti is less noticeable on dark coloured surfaces. Hence, denying the vandals the recognition they desire.
• Protective coating. This is the perfect solution for areas that are repeatedly vandalized. Make use of graffiti resistant materials or protective coatings which allows the graffiti to be removed with relative ease.
• Vegetation.  You can consider utilizing trellis on blank walls and fences to create an uneven surface which graffiti vandals do not like.

The root cause of woodworm is generally high-moisture material in your timber, mainly searched for by grown-up female beetles in summer season to ensure that eggs can be laid. The larvae then delve, as well as when it leaves, leaves the departure holes you frequently see.

One of the most typical symptom of a woodworm assault are the little openings seen around your hardwoods. However these holes are usually brought on by beetles when they get to maturation and also leave the wood in order to go searching for a mate

How To Lay Loft Boards

Do you need more storage space in your home or property? If you live in a tiny space especially where extensions can’t be made sideways, why not look to the topmost area of your home and consider boarding out your loft to make it usable?

Boarding your loft can make for a fairly easy DIY project but like every other home improvement tasks, it requires some specific skill sets as well as knowledge for a successful construction. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional in order to guarantee the best possible outcome, especially if you lack proper training or experience that’ll help you avoid some costly mistakes. Here, we’ll give you a good insight into the loft board laying procedures.

• Get The Right Tools & Equipment

The materials and supplies you’ll need to lay loft boards include loft boards, screws, tape measure and pencil, drill, hammer, saw, protective gear such as gloves and dust mask.

• Work Out The Area

Measure up the area you need the boards to cover. The standard loft features two different sizes (both are 18mm thick) which include 2400mm x 600mm and 1220mm x 320mm. You should ensure that the board you opt for fits through the loft hatch perfectly.

• Start Laying

Once you’re done working out the area, the next step is to put on your protective gear and start putting the boards in place. You should lay the boards in a staggered pattern so as to give a better strength. While doing this, watch out for any wire running through your loft so they don’t get trapped, you should also cut the boards for easy access to the light fittings’ top.

• Make It Permanent

Upon the successful placement of the boards in a way that offer a safe area to store things and stand on, you’ll have to screw them in place. Start by drilling 2 or 5 holes along the edge of individual boards in such a way that lines up with the centre of the joist below. Once done, then you can fix them in place with screws.

How To Remove Tile Adhesive From Wall

Do you feel your tile design choices are outdated and want to replace it with a more stylish one? Or perhaps you’re just struggling to remove the old tile adhesive from your wall. Putting on a new wallpaper or repainting your wall might be a cup of tea, but retiling is surely a different experience altogether. After detaching every single piece of tile from the wall, you’ll still have the strongly glued adhesive to battle with. If not done properly, you may as well damage the wall which will trigger a new additional cost for repair. We’d recommend you get a professional helping hand for the best results if you’re without a proper training or experience. However, this guide will teach you everything you need to know about the process. Let’s get started!

Materials Required

• Steamer

• Protective sheets

• 4-inch scraper

• Clean cloth

• Protective gear - face mask, eye goggles, gloves.

Tile Adhesive Removal Process

• Cover The Floor

Ensure that the floor is well covered to collect the residues falling off from the wall with some protective sheets.

• Heat Up The Adhesive

Using the wallpaper steamer, heat up the adhesive to make it a bit loose and softer. Do this by slowly moving the steamer around and ensure not to stay on one spot for too long.

• Scrape Off The Mortar

When you can tell the adhesive is properly softened, use the 4 inch scraper to wipe it off the wall. Do this until all the adhesive has been completely removed.

• Clear Out The Fallen Residue

Clean up any mortar that has fallen on the floor.

After the tile adhesive removal, your wall may need to be skimmed depending on its state. This is to put the surface in a good and flat condition before installing the new tiles. The wall may also need to be re-plastered if the adhesive is extremely strong.

Whether you need toughened glass in your windows depends on where the windows are in your home or business. Toughened glass is sometimes referred to as tempered or safety glass, and it just means it’s stronger than the standard glass that’s usually offered with double glazed windows. So how do you know if you need it?

Toughened glass is useful in areas of your home where you might come into contact with the windows if you were to trip and fall. If you put your hands out to steady yourself on standard glass the chances are it would break into large sharp pieces with jagged edges. Of course, this means that you could seriously cut yourself if this were to happen. With toughened glass, the structure of the glass is changed so that if it breaks it shatters into lots of tiny pieces, minimising the risk to you if you were to fall on it.

You might want to use toughened glass in patio doors, low windows or frames next to doors. It just means that you will be safer if the unlikely happens and you or a family member falls through the glass. There are certain requirements through Building Regulations with windows at a certain level, but any reputable window installer should be able to go through these with you if you need to replace your windows with toughened glass. The regulations will only apply to new windows – there's no need to switch your windows to toughened glass early, but when you do come to replace them you’ll need to make sure they meet the standard.

There are several benefits that can be derived from insulating your garage door. Not only can it reduce your energy bills and protect your garage’s content from elements, but can also go a long way to increase the return on your property’s value, reduce noise, increase the garage door’s strength and deliver a more convenient garage and home. Insulating your garage is a task you can actually take on by yourself. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you leave it for a reliable professional who can ensure the project is done right, the first time - saving you both time and money. This guide will give you a good insight on how you can go about the project.

To insulate your garage, you’ll need a fibreglass insulation, garage door insulation, expanding foam, drywall, gloves and long sleeves, wood, sharp utility knife as well as a staple gun and staples. Now let’s take a look at the garage door insulation process!

lClear The Walls

• Remove the drywall (if present)

• Clean out the dirt and stud cavities.

• Wipe out any chemicals in the garage like gasoline.

lIdentify Gaps & Cracks In The Wall

• Shake your expanding foam vigorously for about a minute.

• Attach the straw to the can and use it to spray the wall openings.

• Fill the gaps until its 50% full

• Leave the foam to fill the openings completely in about 5 to 15 minutes. It should be hardened or completely cured within 6 to 8 hours.

lInstall Fibreglass Insulation

• Staple the insulation’s paper face to the side of the stud and not the face.

• Place a piece of wwod on the insulation’s top to act as a guide to properly cut the insulation to size.

• Cut the excess insulation with a utility knife.

• Tuck in the insulation to make for easier stapling.

• Staple the insulation down to the stud’s side.

lUse Drywall To Cover The Insulation

• Screw and glue the drywall to the stud.

• Do not leave the insulation’s paper exposed.

Damp issues on a property are usually generated by a lot of factors such as a poor or broken guttering, condensation and lots more. The question arising here is what is the possibility of External Wall Insulation (EWI) preventing condensation? Not only is EWI a reliable way to reduce condensation-caused damp, but it’s also one of the major reasons property owners in solid wall homes consider thermally rendering or cladding their external walls.

Condensation arises as a result of warm moist internal air hitting a cold surface such as the steaming up of both windows and mirror when having a shower. What happens here is the condensation of the water vapour in the air from a gas to liquid in the process of touching the cold surface - one whose temperature is significantly reduced to reach the dew point. At the dew point, condensation is very rampant, and to tackle this issue you’ll have to heighten the wall temperature in order to convert the moisture to vapour and permit it to pass through the wall. And that’s exactly the job of an external wall insulation!

To get started you must ensure that the walls are clean and dry prior to fitting the external wall insulation. The month of May through to September when the weather tends to be dry and more stable are usually the best period to carry out the project. The external wall insulation will function just like a cosy blanket around the building. Ultimately, changing the feel and temperature of the inside of your home. As a result, the previously cold walls will no longer be cold which goes a long way to mitigate the effects of condensation. Furthermore, when an EWI is installed, the rooms of your home will automatically trap more thermal mass as the heat is saved in the walls’ fabric and released back when the temperature drops.

Apart from the cost of hiring a skip, the area in which to place the large item is another major concern for individuals looking to hire a skip. So if you’re wondering whether you can place your hired skip on the road, there are four legal requirements that applies and must be complied with for your protection in the situation whereby a third party accident takes place. Deciding to overlook these conditions can lead to a fine or forceful removal of the skip by the local council.

Here are the compulsory legal requirements that must be fully complied with:

• Get A Permit

The local council gives out a permit for skips to be placed on the road. This permit must be acquired and the cost may vary depending on the local council in your area.

• Illuminate The Skip

Since the skip is to be placed on the road, then it’ll only make sense to have it illuminated at night or in low lighting situations for safety of all road users. According to the law, lights must be positioned at each end of the skip to be easily spotted.

• Use Cones

According to the law, a minimum of two (2) cones must be placed on the skip’s approach side for the protection of all road users.

• Comply With The Skip Requirements

You can’t place just any skip you like on the road. By the law, there are certain conditions that must be met by the skip itself before placement. It must be painted with the yellow colour on the sides, have both the owner’s name and phone number clearly written on it and must also possess a BS AU152:1970 complying red and yellow fluorescent reflective marking which is compulsory to be acquired within two (2) working days upon filling.

Click here to learn more about skips.