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Coloured double glazing windows are more expensive than white ones, in general. uPVC is the cheapest material to use for double glazing, and white is the standard colour. But there are endless possibilities in terms of colours you can have, and they do come at additional cost.

Some people choose to have coloured double glazing that matches or opposes the colour of the exterior of their house. Another popular option is a woodgrain effect, which from a distance looks just like more expensive timber windows. The best thing about a wood effect is that you can have the stylish look of wooden windows without the maintenance, and they should last longer.

While coloured double glazing is more expensive than white ones, it doesn’t have to break the bank. The best thing to do is get in touch with a range of window companies and ask them to come round to give you a quote. They should be able to offer you brochures or links to websites of different brands of windows that offer coloured frames. From there, you can decide on the installers you liked most and the brand you preferred.

It’s worth bearing in mind that it’s not always best to go with the cheapest coloured windows. While there lots of good, inexpensive options out there, sometimes very cheap windows won’t be good quality and may not last as long as other slightly more expensive brands. Speak to your installer about guarantees that may come with the windows and how long they would expect them to last before making your final decision.

Driveways usually sink because they haven’t been laid properly. They may not have been dug deep enough, or the installer might not have used the right materials. This will need to be corrected at the earliest opportunity, although in extreme cases, the driveway may need to be completly be relaid.

First and foremost, it must be stated that replacing an existing electric shower is much easier than fitting one from new. This is primarily due to the fact that the main components required which includes the water pipes as well as electrical connections will have already been established. In this post, we’re going to assume that all these are already in place which means you’re replacing an existing electric shower with a new one. It’ll also be an advantage if the preferred electric shower features cable and pipe entry points at the top and bottom as well as the rear and side so as to allow for more flexibility when it gets to routing cables and pipes. If you’re not confident enough to pull off this task, then it’s strong advisable to call in a professional who can guarantee the best results the first time. Here are the steps you can follow to fit your electric shower:

• Disconnect the power supply as you probably know water and electricity aren’t particularly the best of friends. Once done, you’ll also need to turn off the water supply
• Remove the shower unit. Many shower units are secured with four screws which makes the removal rather straightforward.
• Examine the shower connection points to determine if they’re in the same place on the new unit as they were on the old one.
• Install the new shower unit. First, you’ll have to mark the position of the new units on the wall using a pencil. If the new units don’t possess the same silhouette as the old one, you’ll have to drill new ones preferably using a masonry drill bit.
• Check your installation at both the electrical and water supply to ensure the connection is made correctly.
• Test your new electric shower by turning the power and water supplies back on.

If you’ve converted a non-residential barn into a home, you might be able to reclaim some of the VAT that you’ve paid for your project. This includes money spent on:

• Construction materials

• Flooring

• Light fittings

• Kitchen units and worktops

• Electrical, heating and plumbing materials

To reclaim your VAT from HMRC, make sure you request and keep all of your invoices. You’ll also need proof of planning permission and evidence of completion. You should then submit your claim with all relevant paperwork within three months of receiving your completion certificate. You’re only allowed to submit one claim, so you’ll need to make sure you get it right first time.

If your lawn edges are overgrown, it can make an otherwise well-cared for lawn look unsightly. Luckily, it’s easy to edge your lawn and make it look beautiful again. You should edge your lawn every spring and trim any overhanging grass you notice after mowing. How to edge a lawn There are different types of equipment you can use for different types of edging:

• Edging shears
• Half-moon edger
• Grass shears with a long handle
• Gardening knife
• Long rope or a plank of wood

Depending on how regularly you’ve maintained the edging of your lawn, you might want to do one of the following things:

• Annually in spring or if you’ve left the grass to get out of hand: Decide whether you want a straight or a curved edge along your lawn. If you want a straight edge, lay a plank of wood along the edge and use your half-moon edger to cut along. If you want a curve, lay a rope along the edge and cut along that. Or if you can still see the existing curve of the lawn, you can stick with that.
• After mowing: Use long-handled shears to trim the grass the mower couldn’t reach. If you want to make it look extra tidy, collect up the cuttings and put them on your compost heap or dispose of them.
• Overgrowing grass onto paths: Use a sharp gardening knife to cut the pieces of turf that are growing over the path and pull them away.
• When your lawn is flush with the path: Snip a clean edge along your path with your long-handled grass shears to make it look neat and tidy.
• If you’d rather a low-maintenance option: Spiked metal sheeting is a good material to use to keep your lawn’s edges at bay. Fix it in the ground along the edges to keep the outline of your lawn and stop it from growing into your borders.

The best way to keep your lawn edges looking fabulous is to keep them maintained. Remember to give them a little trim every time you mow your lawn to be the envy of all your neighbours.

By now, every homeower should be fully aware of the dangers of asbestos due to the fact that it can be found in a wide range of building products from the roofs and walls and right down to the floor tiles. An exposure to asbestos especially when disturbed can be life threatening as it can lead to a plethora of health issues which includes lung cancer, mesothelioma, asbestosis and lots more.

Asbestos are more dangerous when damaged or disturbed, but if they’re found in a great shape and are left undisturbed, then asbestos containing materials poses little to no threats. This dangerous material can be found in a large variety of insulation. And when compared to batt insulation, loose-fill insulation can be highly dangerous when it’s not installed in the right way. When poorly done, several particles of the asbestos can be released inside the wall or around pipes. As a result, insulation becomes a big worry that most homeowers will face down the road.

Homes that were constructed before the 1980’s commonly features steam pipes, hot water pipes as well as furnace ducts insulated with asbestos containing materials. And this is primarily because there’s no other fire retardant, thermal as well as acoustic insulator like asbestos that’s as effective and affordable as it is. However to really know if your building’s insulation is made with asbestos containing materials, you can take the following steps:

✓ Find out when your house was built. If it was constructed or renovated before the 1980’s then it’s likely to contain some asbestos materials.

✓ Although this is not advisable, but if you plan on checking the insulation by yourself, you should ensure to put on protect equipment such as goggles, gloves, masks and a safety suit.

✓ Check for insulation available in the building. The asbestos containing insulation in both batt and loose-fill types are grey-coloured so this shouldn’t be too hard to spot.

✓ Examine the pipe coverings especially the blanket type and cardboard coverings.

Are you interested in extending your home to create more living space? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how much value it can add to your property in order to compare the building costs to the potential value gain. Well, as long as you know what you’re doing, your house doesn’t necessarily have to be a money pit. So what are your options when talking about home extensions and what’s the associated value to be gained?

• Bathroom Extensions

Although you should have it in mind that bathroom extensions isn’t usually that cheap, but once done, it can increase the value of a standard UK house within the range of £12,000 to £15,000. Meanwhile the finishing cost of a bathroom can range from £2,500 to £7,000.

• Single or Double Storey Extensions

Single storey extensions are always huge when it comes to increasing the value of your home - giving about 4 to 7 percent increase. If it goes that far, then literally nothing beats a full spectrum, double storey extension which can give up to 11 percent increase in the value of a property - equalling about a whooping £33,000 for a standard home in the UK.

• Conservatory Extension

With conservatories becoming more and more popular in the UK due to the weather conditions, several buyers are now including it’s availability as part of the criteria for purchasing a house. Wonder why? This is simply because everyone wants to enjoy their garden all throughout the year. As a result of this high demand, adding this type of extension to your house can go a long way to increase it’s value. However, it’s very important to incorporate high quality materials during construction. With glass conservatories offering, on the average, up to £5,000 increase in value, the cheaper PVC alternative offers much less value and can also deter potential buyers.

Laying artificial grass is a popular project – it’s a great way to create a smart, low-maintenance garden. There are plenty of professionals around who are experts at installing artificial grass, but it’s possible to DIY too if you’re feeling confident.

Lots of homeowners choose to replace their existing turf with artificial grass, so lay it on soil. To do this, start by clearing the area of any greenery or turf. Then remove any extra soil to a depth of about 40mm. You might want to leave the centre of your area slightly higher than the edges for a more natural look.

Next, you need to add a weed membrane and a sharp sand sub-base. It doesn’t really matter which one of these you do first, but you might find it easier to lay the weed membrane first and then use the sand to weigh it down, to a depth of about 35mm. Use a rake and plank to make the sand level, and compact it with a plank and heavy hammer. It doesn’t need to be completely flat – gentle slopes are fine. The weed membrane should overlap joints by 300mm.

After you’ve done this, you can lay your grass. Roll it out, trim it to size and fasten it in place. Make sure the ends of the grass rolls are staggered so they don’t end in a line. Lay the artificial grass with the pile (the strands) leaning towards the house so it looks nice and full when you’re looking out from the house. If you’ve decided to use edging boards, you can nail the grass into the tops of the boards. Or, if you haven’t, use ground pins to anchor it into the soil. Brush the grass and you’re done!