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How to repair your flat garage roof will depend on what it’s made from. Lots of flat garage roofs are made from EDPM rubber, asphalt or felt. We’ll explain how to carry out repairs on your garage roof here. EDPM rubber flat roof repair EDPM rubber is an excellent choice for a flat garage roof and should need little maintenance. But if you do need to repair it, there are a few easy fixes. If it’s a small crack or tear, apply some lap sealant to the area, but don’t use too much. If you go for a more professional repair later, the sealant will need to be scraped off, so if there’s too much it might cost you more in labour. If you need to repair the flashing, buy some malleable flashing tape so you can form it into the right shape. Clean and dry the area that needs repairing, then apply an EDPM primer. When that’s touch dry, stick the patch of flashing tape down from the centre outwards with a roller. Repairing an asphalt flat garage roof Asphalt is also very hard-wearing, and when it does need fixing, the fixes often last a long time. So if you do get cracks or blisters, you can use a paint-on fix from a tin as a temporary repair. When it’s time for a more permanent fix, you can add a small patch of torched-on roofing felt or use a liquid system, but the high-quality ones are often only available to trade customers. How to repair a felt flat garage roof Felt can be repaired in a similar way to asphalt flat garage roofs. For small cracks or a temporary fix, try a paint-on treatment from a tin. But for something more permanent, use a patch of torched-on roofing felt or a liquid system. If these don’t stick, unfortunately it means it’s time for a new felt garage roof. If you do need a new flat garage roof, leave it to the professionals who will ensure that your new roof will last for years.

How Much To Paint A House Exterior?

Do you feel your home is need of a lift to enhance its visual appeal or give it some TLC? In order to impress your visitor or potential buyers, kerb appeal is simply everything. Many homeowners are usually discouraged due to the thought that a painting job is always an expensive one with not so much value in return. However, in reality, painting your home’s exterior is actually one of the most significant improvements one can make as it tells your story and communicates your value.

The cost of getting a house exterior painting job done is based on a number of things which includes the type of walls you possess, whether it’s a maintenance project, whether it’s your first time of painting the house as well as your location. So what’s involved in a painting job?

✓ Scrapping off the loose paint.

✓ Brushing off cobwebs and dust on the surface

✓ Washing the wall

✓ Application of fungicide to mouldy patches

✓ Repairing minor damages

✓ Applying paint surface stabiliser

✓ Applying two coats of your chosen paint

✓ Disposal of waste as well as a full clean up of the site.

Below is a breakdown of the cost of painting the exterior of a house. Kindly note that this is just an example (using a semi detached house) to give you an idea of how much your project is going to cost.

✓ Costly scaffolding isn’t required here but platform towers can be need - this will cost about £80 to £100.

✓ Materials including sand or cement for repairs, plastic sheeting, tape, paint, masonry stabiliser as well as fungicide treatment will cost about £200 to £300

✓ Cost of labour for two workers £700 to £1000 based on the location

1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
   • A concrete base laid on hardcore
   • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
   • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
   • An interlocking plastic system
   All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
4. Put up the shed walls
   • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
   • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
   • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
   Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
5. Fit the roof
   • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
   • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
   • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
   • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
   • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
6. Add the shed windows
   • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
   • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
   • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.

How Much Do Roof Rooms Cost?

The price of your roof room may vary depending on your location within the country. Other factors that can also play a key role in determining the price of a roof room includes the conversion’s type as well as the legal and technical issues it’s currently facing. Usually, the cost of roof rooms will range between £1,200 to £2,000 per square metre. The differences in the price per square metre is influenced by the size of the alterations to the roof, the type of roof room to be constructed, the access, location as well as the finishing type.

• DORMER LOFT CONVERSION.

Here, one of the slopes of a pitched roof is substituted for a box-shaped structure. The outcome is a flat roof space which enables the fitting of full sized windows as well as the incorporation of several appliances. This is quite expensive as it involves a total rebuilding of one roof pitch alongside the complete internal works that are associated. The average cost of a standard dormer loft project will range between £25,000 to £50,000.

• HIP TO GABLE LOFT CONVERSION

Here a vertical brick wall is used to substitute the roof’s slope at the ending part of the terrace on detached buildings. The average cost of this type of roof room will range between £32,000 to £60,000.

• ROOFLIGHT LOFT CONVERSION

This basically involves fitting rooflight windows in the roof. Other improvements include flooring, plasterboarding, strengthening of the existing floor, as well as installation of rooflights. The average cost of this type of roof room will range between £15,000 to £25,000.

• MANSARD LOFT EXTENSION

This roof room can create an extra storey on top of an existing building as it makes a space featuring two or four external walls that are a bit sloped. The average cost of this type of roof room will range between £40,000 to £70,000.

Air source heat pumps work by absorbing heat from the outside air and transferring it inside to heat up your property.

An air source heat pump has an outdoor unit containing a refrigerant. This absorbs heat from the air and passes into a compressor, where the temperature is increased. The heat then transfers either into water, which feeds into your wet heating system, or into air, which is dispersed around your property.

Air source heat pumps need electricity to run, but this is to power the compressor rather than directly generate heat.

• Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
• Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
• Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth

• Step treads (the actual step themselves)
• Step risers
• Coach screws
• Deck screws
• Saw
• Drill

1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.

Cookers usually look best if they’re installed at the same height as the work surfaces they’re next to. Most range cookers have adjustable legs so that they match a range of work surface heights.If you want your range cooker to match your work surface height, make sure that your installer knows this before they get started.

Once you’ve made the decision to acquire a stairlift, the next step is to find a reliable company that’ll supply you with what you need. When it comes to stairlifts, Stannah is one of the industry leading manufacturers which supplies and installs a great number of various starlift models every year which goes a long way to enhance the lives of their customers.  When you go for Stannah, you can be rest assured knowing you’ll definitely get a top quality chair lift as well as an excellent service. Once you’ve selected your preferred company to supply the stairlift you need, the next thing would be to find one depending on your budget and needs. The cost of Stannah stairlift varies depending on the model required which would be determined by your needs and preferences.

The differences in Stannah stairlift price are showcased in the features of the model as well as your home stair configuration. For example, a Starla stairlift bought new for a straight stairlift will be about £2,000 less expensive when compared to the same model for a staircase that’s curved. This is due to the fact that the rails must be custom built to fit your staircase’s specifications.

Generally, a straight Stannah stairlift price for Stannah 600 will typically range from around £2300 to about £2800. On the other hand, a curved Stannah stairlift price for Stannah 260 will typically range from around £4,300 to about £4,800. Another great option is to hire a stairlift as the monthly rental costs are a good way to keep the Stannah stairlift price down - if the need is just for a short term.