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In 2002 the Government amended Building Regulations governing the replacement and installation of glazing units. For the first time, windows had to meet energy efficiency standards and tough thermal performance levels. For new window units you must have efficiency ratings of at least a level C.

If you’re about to start your house extension project and wondering how long it’ll take to complete, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions that’s asked by homeowners in the UK and across the globe. However, there’s no single precise answer for this as there are multiple factors that’ll affect the length of time it’ll take to complete your home extension. These factors include the size of the construction work as well as whether you’re planning to live in the house after completion or otherwise.

For a single extension, the length of time it’ll take to complete the home extension is normally up to 3 months. So let’s break this down:

As you would have expected, the first step to be taken is the preparation of the site. You start by digging out the footing and preparing the foundation which should take about 2 weeks. This is then followed by the damp course installation as well as the fitting of any drains needed around the extension which will also take a further 2 weeks.

The 5th week will be for the construction of the external walls as well as putting the blockwork in place for the provision of the cavity wall insulation. A further 2 weeks after this, will be dedicated to the installation of the roof structure and the internal walls.

It’s at this junction that you’ll call on your weather proof installer to fit in your uPVC windows and doors. Once done, the gas fitters and electricians will have to be on site to connect power to your new extension building. Subsequently, this will be followed by internal wall plastering as well as breaking through your main house. Once the plaster is dried, decorations completed and all the required furniture and units installed, the extension is ready for use.

Are you about to start a new construction job when it’s a heavily rainy period? Or perhaps you’re just interested in knowing how bricklayers work. Well regardless of your purpose, one thing you should know is laying of bricks has a few rules and one of them is not to lay a brick wall when its raining. This is mainly because your structure’s quality and integrity would be heavily compromised if water comes in contact with the mortar before it gets the time to dry. However, with the help of a concrete protective tent, you can prevent water from coming in contact and damaging the mortar. So let’s look at the procedures to follow to work in the rain!

lDetermine The Concrete Protective Tents Required

• Concrete protective tents come in various sizes so you have to know what’s required to get the job done.

• Firstly, calculate the amount of space required to lay the brick wall

• Then, incorporate the appropriate size and number of tents.

lSet Up The Tents

• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to set up the tents

• Once installed, the tent should extend past the location for the bricklaying and slope downwards.

l Access The Area

• Inspect the location during rainfall to ensure water is not sneaking through.

lBuild a Lumber Frame

• Use 2 to 4 pieces of lumber to build a frame.

• Set it into the ground depending on the size of your wall

lApply Concrete or Mortar

• Fill up the frame with either concrete or mortar.

• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to allow the mixture to cure.

lPrepare the Brick Wall’s Mortar

• Mix the mortar for the brick wall construction

• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction for the process.

When you’re done laying the bricks, you can remove the protective tents once you’re certain the rain has stopped. Exposure to sun and air will speed up the curing process, which is quite important to protect the integrity of your structure.

Mosaic tiles is a popular choice amongst most homeowners for several reasons. Not only can they be used to create a colourful and beautiful background for your space, they’re also very easy to maintain while also lasting a very long period of time when properly installed. In addition, they’re very easy to install and can also blend perfectly with other types of tiles. If you’re thinking about fitting mosaic wall tiles in your home or office, you’d probably want to know how you can go about the installation. The installation process is actually very easy but if you do not have the confidence required to pull this off, then we’d recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help.

✓ Prepare the surface. This involves switching off the power to electrical outlets, removing wall plates as well as other accessories anchored to the wall and protecting the countertop and other surfaces.

✓ Draw reference lines. Determine the layout of the mosaic tiles.

✓ Install a tile finishing trim. This should be done at the edge of the tiled surface with flat head nails. Then use a 3/16 inches notched trowel to spread a thin coat of tile adhesive over a small section of wall, to one side of the vertical line.

✓ Spread the adhesive. Use the notched side of a trowel to spread the adhesive.

✓ Lay the first sheet. Use the reference lines as a guide to the first mosaic tile sheet.

✓ Verify adherence. Push the sheet gently into the adhesive to ensure that it adheres very well to the wall.

✓ Tap the tiles lightly. Use a rubber mallet to tap the tiles lightly to ensure the sheets are set firmly on the wall.

✓ Caulk the joints.

The process you need to go through to install a TV aerial depends on the type of aerial you have. If you have an indoor aerial, it’s simple. Just plug the aerial into your TV and stand it up next to it. If the signal isn’t right, then try moving your aerial closer to a window or higher up. Make sure you rescan for channels every time you move it so you know if you’ve made an improvement. It’s also fairly easy to install a loft TV aerial – just take it up into your loft and position it in a convenient place. Again, experiment with angles and positions to ensure you get the best signal. Installing an outdoor TV aerial is a little trickier. Ideally, try to fix your aerial to a wall or chimney at a gable end – this will be much easier to access than a chimney in the middle of the roof. Follow the instructions that come with your aerial for mounting it – it’s usually best to lash your aerial on rather than use screws. If you’re not used to working at height or aren’t confident doing your own aerial installation work, it’s best to get in touch with a professional.

There are all different types of Asbestos. Some kinds of asbestos, if they are in good condition, may be left as they are or covered up. If there is any danger of the asbestos being damaged and particles entering the air, it should be removed. Once a survey has been completed you will be advised on what course of action to take.

How To Fix A Broken Boiler

To fix any problem when it comes to home appliances, the first step is always to identify the problem while also carrying out thorough checks - a broken boiler is not an exception. Putting enough time and effort in diagnosing a problem can go a lot way to save you both time and money. So here are some of the steps you can take to fix your broken boiler before you put a call out to a licensed engineer.

✓ Check to confirm if your pilot light is on. Whenever you’re facing some issues with your boiler, this should always be the first thing you do. The pilot light being on speak volumes, if the light is off then there’s absolutely no way the flame can start the appliance’s gas supply. You should try to put it back on, if off. To do this, you simply have to follow the detailed instructions on your boiler’s manual strictly. If after following these actions to the letter and the issue remains the same, then you’d probably need the services of an a qualified engineer. Never try to fix the issue on your own.

✓ Check the pressure. The solution to the headaches might sometimes be as simple as examining your appliance’s pressure gauge. Here, the good numbers are around 1.0 or1.5, if it happens to fall below this, then you should open the boiler’s instruction manual. You can also inspect your radiator valves for any leaks. You’d have to call in a specialist to solve the issue.

✓ Check the thermostat. Here, it’s important to note that a faulty thermostat doesn’t necessarily imply a broken boiler. It may just signify that you need to replace your thermostat. Simply check to ensure that your thermostat is turned on and temperature is at the appropriate degree.

Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.

If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!

For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.

In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.