Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Hammersmith and Fulham.

A pitched roof is a type of roof that is defined to have a sloping surface that has an angle that is greater than 20 degrees. Pitched roofs offer a more classical appearance. They remain the most communal and effective answer in wet and cold weathers to guarantee all-out protection.

Eaves

In the roof, the lower part of the inclined roof which is prominent outside the external face of the wall. The chief purpose of eaves is to pour the rainwater from the roof straight on the exterior wall. It also provides protection from sunlight. Eaves are sometimes decorated to an architectural beauty.

Gable

The Three-sided higher part of the wall at the end of a ridge roof.

Flashing

A band of impermeable material, typically metal, used to eliminate water from the intersection between a roof covering and another part of the structure. Flashings are provided to stop moisture from inflowing the wall and roof through joints in copings, parapet wall, and other infiltrations through the roof plane.

Hip

The Hip is defined as the exterior angle, which is generally greater than 180 degrees, which is formed at the inclined ridge of the roof slopes.

Ridge

The ridge is defined as the horizontal intersection made by the rising roof surfaces that are inclined in opposite directions.

Purlins

Purlins are the horizontal members which are laid on the principal rafters which help to support the common rafter of a roof. This is usually done when the span is large. Purlins are made from wood or steel. The top surfaces of the purlins intend to be unvarying and plane.

Fascia

This is the wooden board that is fixed to the feet of the common rafter at eaves. The Fascia helps the lowest ends of the roof covering material to rest on it.

Rafter

One of the major structural components of a pitched roof is a rafter. The rafter generally begins for the support of the roof to the ridge or hip. The purlin is supported by equally spaced rafters used side by side.

While resin bound and resin bonded driveways have similar names, it might surprise you to know that they’re very different. Both paving systems use resin and aggregates (stones) to form a fixed surface, but there are plenty more differences than there are similarities.

Resin bound driveways are made from a resin and aggregate mix that is trowelled onto a bitmac or concrete base. It leaves a smooth, flat finish and you won’t find any loose gravel. It’s also a pourous surface, which means that rainwater can pass through into the ground, avoiding pools and flooding.

However, resin bonded driveways involve spreading resin across a base, then scattering aggregate into it. Most of the stones will stick to the resin, but some will stay loose. That means you’ll get the effect of loose gravel without so much to sweep and take care of. Because the stones are scattered onto a complete layer of resin, water can’t pass through it. That means you could end up with water pooling, and it also means that a resin bonded driveway isn’t frost resistant, meaning it could get slippery.

So which is better – a resin bound or resin bonded driveway? The answer depends on a few things. If you have a period property where a smooth, shiny surface might not complement the look of your home, you might want to go for resin bonded. If you need lots of grip, for example if you’re a wheelchair user, resin bonded may also be the way to go – even though resin bound surfaces still offer enough grip for sloped driveways and ramps. But if you want a low-maintenance, weed-free, permeable surface, resin bound driveways are the way to go.

If you’re thinking about installing a solar system in your home or property, this is probably one of the things you’d like to know before making a purchase decision. Well, you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into this to help you make the best informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that providing a short and accurate answer to this question is nearly impossible as the amount of time a solar panel will last after dark is influenced by a number of factors. These factors include the size of your solar system, the battery size as well as your power usage. As you would have imagined, batteries are charged when there is excess energy that’s being produced by your solar system but it’s not being incorporated to power your home or property. More often than not, this occurs during the sunlight’s peak periods from about 10am to 2pm.

The time it’ll take for your battery to charge is influenced by the size of your solar system in Kilowatts, the size of your battery as well as the rate in which your system is being used. Your battery can be charged in a day or two, of course unless it’s an over-sized battery for your system.

When the sun sets and your solar panels can no longer directly run your appliances via electricity generation, the battery then kicks in. You will use about 1 to 2 kW’s of power if you’re watching TV, using the oven as well as lights internet etc. in other words, even a small solar panel battery will last all night. However, the same doesn’t apply if you’re having a party with running floodlights, three fridges and air conditioner as the battery will drain a lot faster.

As the heat start to come up especially during the summer months, the swelter will mercifully be kept in check by air conditioning. The technology has made a significant impact on modern life and it can now be considered a norm for all new and modern homes. So if you’re also planning to fit new HVAC air conditioning systems in your home or property, you may also be interested in knowing exactly how it works. In this article, we aim to provide you with an in depth insight into how air conditioning operates. Now let’s take a closer look at the process!

✓ A grille at the bottom of the machine absorbs warm air from the room

✓ The warm air is transmitted over some chiller pipes through which a coolant fluid is circulating. Working in a similar fashion as the chiller cabinet in a refrigerator, this part cools down the transmitted warm air and any excess moisture is duly removed by a dehumidifier.

✓ The air is then transmitted over a heating element which is quite similar to the one present in a fan heater. On a cold day, this part of the unit can be turned up in order to allow the HVAC works as heater.

✓ A fan which is positioned at the top blows the air back through another grilled into the room.

✓ Coolant flows through the the chiller pipes. In the process, it carries heat from the air blowing past the pipes and then it evaporates - converting the cool liquid into a hotter gas. This heat is then transported to the outside of the building from inside the room.

✓ With time, the heat inside the building slowly blows away into the outside air.

If you’ve converted a non-residential barn into a home, you might be able to reclaim some of the VAT that you’ve paid for your project. This includes money spent on:

• Construction materials

• Flooring

• Light fittings

• Kitchen units and worktops

• Electrical, heating and plumbing materials

To reclaim your VAT from HMRC, make sure you request and keep all of your invoices. You’ll also need proof of planning permission and evidence of completion. You should then submit your claim with all relevant paperwork within three months of receiving your completion certificate. You’re only allowed to submit one claim, so you’ll need to make sure you get it right first time.

If you wish to work as a quantity surveyor or perhaps you’re just looking to hire one, then one of the first things that comes to mind is the qualifications to look out for. To work as a quantity surveyor, you’ll normally require a degree in quantity surveying or commercial management which is accredited by the RICS (Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors). However, in the event whereby your degree as an undergraduate happens to be in a different subject, there’s still a chance for you to become a qualified quantity surveyor. To achieve this, all you need do is to take a Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors accredited post graduate conversion course. Degrees that this applies to includes the following: Economics, building or construction, geography, civil or structural engineering, mathematics, project management ( construction) as well as urban and land studies.

Typically, the post graduate course will take about a year to complete ( on a full time basis), whereas it takes about 2 years on a part time basis. What’s more? There are some employers that will recruit some graduates as “non-cognates ( meaning those with a non RICS accredited degrees ) and support them financially through the accredited post graduate course. Furthermore, you can as well take a RICS accredited degree apprenticeship whether undergraduate, PGDip or Masters, in quantity surveying as well as project management that combines work with part time study at a university.

However, if you’re without a degree, there’s still an option. Simply start work as a technical surveyor ( also referred to as surveying technician ) and then apply for a part time study while working to qualify as a quantity surveyor.

Do Locksmiths Fix Door Handles?

If you’re leaving your house for work, coming back home after a long day or closing your bedroom door to take a quick and quiet nap, one thing your hand touches every single time is your door handle. Therefore, it’s very easy and usually quick to observe whenever there’s a problem with your door handles. In such events, your best bet would be to call on the locksmith immediately as it’s one of the various services that can be offered by a professional locksmith.

However, there are times that some key and lock problems may be mistaken for door handle issues. So how do know the exact type of issue you’re facing and know if you’d require the services of a professional locksmith?

Firstly, you’ll know that something is wrong with your door when you’re struggling either to open or close the door. You may be forced to think that this is a door handle issue, but just observe very closely and take a look at the key. If you notice that the key is a bit bent or chopped off on one part, then the problem is actually with the key and not the door handle. In these type of situations, calling the locksmith should be done immediately.

Secondly, you may suddenly feel some kind of resistance while trying to turn the key in the door or perhaps you notice your lock doesn’t look like it does any longer when the door is open. This implies the door handle’s interior is not functioning as it should. This problem is a lock problem which a locksmith can attend to.

If you, however, think the door handle has an issue, then you may have to call on your locksmith for a solution. However, in some cases, door handle issues can also be resolved by yourself. For examples, when the door handle appears loose, you can simply get a screwdriver to tighten it.

If you’re planning to build an orangery extension on your property, then it only makes sense to estimate the possible cost before getting started. However, like several other home improvement projects, the cost of building an orangery extension is based on a wide array of factors such as your location ( within the UK), the size of the building, the orangery style in question, the materials to be incorporated as well as the finish you’re expecting to get.

Generally, to build an orangery, you’d have to spend within a range of £10,000 to £70,000. This variations in price depends on the factors earlier mentioned such as the type and size of the selected orangery. For a small orangery featuring a uPVC frame, you can get that done for nothing less than £10,000, but the price can jump to £60,000 or more if you want a large, timber-framed orangery built. For a superior quality, large and timber-framed orangery featuring a new fitted kitchen, you’d have to incur up to £70,000 in expenses (when you add the price of the new kitchen units as well as appliances).

The finish you want to achieve is one of the most influential factors determining the price of your orangery. If you want just the bare essentials (low end), the price ranges from £10,000 to £20,000, meanwhile the price for a blend of both basic and customized items ranges between £20,000 to £40,000. However, if you have a high taste and looking to get the best possible orangery with all fixtures and fittings of great quality, you’d have to spend between £35,000 to £60,000.

Furthermore, orangery’s cost will also be affected by how you wish to make use of the space, meaning an extra work may be required. This must also be taken into consideration to get a more accurate estimation of the cost.