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Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Laying a lawn is a task that’s best left to the professionals especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. However, if you can follow a simple logical process, you’ll save yourself a lot of headache – simply start from the edge and work inwards. If you’re looking to lay your lawn by yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the processes involved in lawn installation in order to ensure your project turns out a success. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, the tools you’re going to need to lay your lawn includes the following – sturdy boots, gardening gloves (should be thick), wheel barrow, garden fork or rotovator, landscaping rake, laying boards, knife or edge trimmer, hosepipe and broom.

1. Start from the outside edge. Install the initial strips horizontally overlapping the boundary a bit (trim the back once done). Press down carefully to make sure there’s a good contact with the soil (make sure not to squash the lawn).
2. Proceed to lay the adjacent pieces till the first row of the lawn along the entire edge is completed.
3. Continue with the next row. If there’s a need to stand on the laid turf, simply make use of a plank so as to avoid squashing or denting the turf. It’s important to ensure the successive rows are staggered to prevent the short edges from lining up.
4. Proceed by butting and pushing the edges to create a tight joint (make sure the turf is not stretched).
5. Use a wood saw or sharp serrated knife to trim any untidy edges. Remember to make use of a plank to ensure you do not walk directly on the turf.
6. Water the newly installed turf adequately to ensure the water penetrates the soil. However, do not turn it into a mud bath.

Since it’s very common to find heated floors in the bathroom, it becomes very understandable that most home and property owners are fitting a radiant floor heating system under tile flooring. If you’re thinking about how you can fit heat under tile floor, then you’ve come to the right place. However, if you lack enough confidence to pull this off, then we’d advise you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’d be considering how heating products are fitted under the most commonly heated flooring material which is tile. Let’s take a look!

1. Take a measurement of the room you wish to heat. When taking this measurement, you should leave out permanent fixtures such as tubs, toilets, floor vents and more. This information will be used to create a project sketch which includes the room dimensions
2. Test your electric floor heating rolls. To make sure that your floor heating rolls are in perfect working condition, you should use a digital ohmmeter to test it.
3. Inspect the subfloor. Clear the surface of any nails or other sharp objects which could cause damage to the heating element.
4. Install the flex roll. Simply roll out your flex roll till it gets to the opposite side of the room. Once done, you can then cut the mesh and turn 180 degrees to continue fitting in the other direction.
5. Place the sensor. If you happen to possess a floor heating thermostat that enables a floor sensor, ensure to position the sensor near the thermostat’s location and exactly between two cables, then use hot glue or weave into mesh to secure it.
6. Connect the thermostat. We’d advise you get in touch with a professional to have this done.
7. Install the tile.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

If you’re thinking about spraying your upvc, then one of the first things that naturally comes to mind is the price of completing such a task. If you’re also interested in determining the price, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take a look at the total cost involved in UPVC spraying.

First and foremost, it must be stated that UPVC spraying is an industry that’s highly competitive. And as you would have guessed the prices are largely influenced the experience and reputation of the company you opt for. In other words, the new entrant companies are usually the cheapest but their works are not particularly the best. Therefore, for a high quality job, it’s always recommended to make use of a well established and highly reputable company in the industry.

If you’re going to hire a vastly experienced and reputable firm in the industry, then you should budget about circa £140 to £160 per window, circa £210 to £250 per door and frame, circa £260 to £300 for a large garage door and circa £600 to £800 for a three bed semi detached house.

These prices include materials, labour as well as other related costs. However, you should note that they’re only estimated prices and you’ll have to call in a professional in order to get a more accurate quote. If you’re looking to paint all the UPVC in your home, there are usually discounts that will be provided based on the work load. What’s more? If there’s a need for scaffolding, then there can be a bump up in the price.

• The rules only apply to houses – flats and maisonettes are not included
• Only 50% of the area of land around the original house can be covered by extensions, including conservatories, and other buildings
• You mustn’t build the conservatory higher than the highest part of the original roof
• Where the wooden conservatory comes within 2 metres of the boundary, the height at the eaves can’t exceed 3 metres
• A rear wooden conservatory can’t extend beyond the rear wall of the original house by more than 4 metres if it’s a detached house, or more than 3 metres for any other type of house
• For side extensions, for example a lean-to wooden conservatory, it can’t exceed 4 metres in height and can only be up to half the width of the original house

What Kind Of Paint To Use On Exterior Brick?

If you’re thinking about painting your exterior brick, you’d probably be wondering the kind of paint that’ll be most suitable for the project. If yes, you’re definitely not alone! Bricks are widely known for being notoriously difficult to paint due to their porousness and can also absorb paint. However, if you’re able to purchase the right type of paint and carefully prepare for your home’s brick exterior, you can make the process a whole lot more easier and cleaner while also giving your home a lot more updated look. It’s usually cheap, appealing and even protects your bricks from the elements which makes it even more durable.

The best type of paint to purchase is the elastomeric paint which provides the highest level of longevity. It’s actually more expensive than acrylic paint but it clearly outworks 100% acrylic paint by double in terms of both effectiveness and efficiency. The elastomeric paint is also super resistant to cold, heat as well as sunlight which makes it perfect for outdoor application. What’s more? It’s also dense enough to fill in cracks in the bricks but in such cases you might need to apply two coats. Overall, if you happen to stay in an inclement weather prone region, an elastomeric paint will help protect your home’s brick surface.

However, if you’re on a tight budget you can also consider getting an acrylic latex paint. This is a lot cheaper than elastomeric paint, but it’s also a great painting option for exterior bricks as it permits moisture to leave the bricks’ surface and helps to prevent mildew. Furthermore, you’ll only need to apply just a coat of acrylic paint.

Working with a designer to plan your kitchen means you’ll get the best possible use out of the space and it maybe that wasted space can be put to good use. Designers can offer you lots of space saving solutions and innovative kitchen units, making your kitchen a truly functional area.