Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Merseyside.

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

How Much Do Electric Radiators Cost?

If there’s an age-long question that doesn’t seem to go away any time soon it’s how much do electric radiators cost? Although it would be perfect to offer an exact figure you can actually work with as the cost of running your heating system, but unfortunately you’ll have to consult a clairvoyant individual to get that. The question is almost synonymous with asking to know what your utility bill will be this month or the next. This is an answer that’s specific to each household, so it would be impossible to provide an answer that applies to all households in the UK. This is because there are several influencing factors that affects what the final cost of your household’s electricity bill will be. Let’s take a look at these factors!

• The size of the room you want to heat. As you would have guessed, the larger the room, the higher the amount of energy that’ll be incorporated, which means a greater electricity bill.

• The age of your house. There’s a high possibility your household ( if it’s an old one) lacks sufficient insulation which makes it less energy efficient, except you’ve already made some necessary changes.

• Your individual needs. Depending on your personal requirements, you electricity bill may be greatly influenced to be higher or lower. And the more people you have in your home, the more the energy you’re likely to consume.

• Time of the year. During the winter months, you’re likely to use a lot more electricity and heating because the weather tends to be colder.

• Your property’s exposure to natural elements. For instance a terraced home with houses on either side will be able to retain heat much longer and there less electricity and heating than a fully detached home.

• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

You don’t have to, especially if you’re on a budget. If you’re only replacing some, it’s a good idea to get all the windows on one side of your property replaced at the same time, so they all look the same. Be aware, obviously, huge savings could be had by having a number of windows replaced at the same time.

Planning your bathroom can be a very daunting task especially when you have little to no idea to start from. If you’re facing this challenge, you’re definitely not alone. In this post, we’ll take you through the bathroom planning process to ensure you get it right the first time. Let’s take a look!

1. Assess the bathroom. You can start the planning process by thinking who will be using the space, the number of people that will be using it and the likes as they would have a big bearing on the scheme you’d choose at the end of the day.
2. Take a measurement of the space. The scale of the space must be enough to accommodate your plans, so before you start planning you have to consider if there’s sufficient space.
3. Ask the experts. It’s always a great idea to consult the experts before make any decisions. Simply visit any local bathroom showrooms and online platforms, you should get bathroom designers for reliable details and advice.
4. Choose a layout. Getting a bathroom layout that ticks all the boxes right from the beginning is vital. If you have an existing layout which works well, don’t change it. It’ll be a much cheaper option as moving waste and water pipes can be very costly.
5. Look out for inspiration and be realistic with your space. You can talk to friends that have complete similar projects, check online platforms of bathroom designers and remember that functionality should always be above aesthetic when it comes to bathrooms.
6. Put storage into consideration
7. Factor in the ventilation
8. Put the bathroom lighting in your plan
9. Conclude with a budget
10. Get recommendations from loved ones or trusted individuals about the right tradespeople.

The most commonly used driveway surfacing materials are gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving - which can be block, slabbed or patten imprinted. Take a look at our product information pages to help you decide which one to use and which one will look best for your driveway.

Yes, your shed does need a base. This is to give it a solid, level foundation. Open soil will not help with the longevity of the shed itself or the contents within. The best materials to use to make your shed base are concrete, natural stone or wood.

Garage conversion is a great way to add extra usable space to your home without having to extend your property. A fun fact is that, in the UK if you have your car parked in the garage, you’re in the minority. According to a research carried out by Admiral Loans, just about 33 percent of home owners in the UK store their cars in the garage. For most people the garage is literally a dumping ground that’s never fully utilized as such. In recent times, the garage is now being used to store a variety of other stuffs asides a car which includes garden furniture, tools and appliances, utilities such as washing machine, fridge and freezer as well as food and groceries. These facts show that more and more people are underutilizing their garage when they may actually be in need of more usable space in their property. So why not put into consideration converting the garage into a new space that would be able to serve more purpose?

If you’ve decided to convert your garage, you’d probably want to know the how long the project will take. There are a wide range of factors that can determine the duration of a garage conversion project. These factors include:

• If the foundation needs reinforcing

• If the floors, walls, or roofs are in a bad condition.

• If the ceiling height needs some raising

• If the insulation required in newer builds.

All aforementioned factors will make the garage conversion project take longer than expected. However, in normal situations garage conversions are relatively quick to complete once you start the building works. A single-car conversion will usually take about 3 to 4 weeks to complete depending on the existing garage’s structure.