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There are a range of locks that are available for doors. Look for ones accredited by Secured by Design and British Standards. The quality of the installation will also affect the security of the door. Additional security measures such as a double lock, security bolts and chains can support this.

Birthed in the late 1700s, the shaker kitchen has stood the test of time and remains incredibly popular till date. It was discovered by a religious community had a strong belief in honesty as well as simplicity and said every object inside a home must have a practical use. The shaker cabinet features a square frame and a recessed panel profile. With the use of mid-rails, the panel can be divided into multiple sections. They were originally made from pine, cherry or maple wood, but they’re now manufactured from better quality woods like oak. Basically, the essence of a shaker kitchen is the timber’s quality as well as the fundamental functionality of the cabinet.

The style of shaker cabinet kitchens is usually an uncluttered and organized approach to design. This classic, timeless and uncomplicated design complements both country and classic style kitchen and also a more modern environments. They tend to create a detailed or more minimal appearance by using plain or bevelled recessed panels. The colour schemes, on the other hand, are somewhat muted to maintain an elegant and simple design - a hand painted finish which adds a sophisticated feel to the cabinet kitchen. A very common addition to shaker cabinet kitchens are kitchen islands which enhances the space’s functionality.

Generally, modern shaker kitchens are available in a wide array of colours such as white, grey, blue, wood grain and more. This way, you get to find the most suitable colour for your kitchen. You get to choose from a large selection of classic colour palette which enables you to achieve a customized kitchen that complements your home perfectly well.

1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

Asbestos fibres are very small, so they’re not possible to identify with the naked eye. However, they’re common in particular materials of a certain age, so you can work out if there are any parts of a building that are likely to contain asbestos.

Start by checking the date that the material you suspect contains asbestos was installed. If it was in 2000 or after then you don’t need to worry, it definitely doesn’t contain asbestos. However, if it was fitted before 2000 it may contain asbestos, particularly if this was between 1940 and 1980.

Materials that used to commonly contain asbestos include ceiling tiles, guttering, soffits, fascia, external cladding and facades, vinyl flooring, artex, cement roofs and insulation.

Yes. Residential architects are invaluable and will be able to manage the application process as well as offer you advice on the best way to design your building to satisfy the local authority. They can also help with ideas as well as advising on what is possible and what is not possible.

Being the most used room in a house, it’s little surprise kitchen extension are usually one of the most popular requests in the UK. They do not only open up a frequently used space in your home, but also goes a long way to add value to your property. However, to know the value that’ll added you must first determine the cost of building such an extension before moving forward. Generally, a typical kitchen extension will cost within the range of £20,000 to about £50,000 plus VAT, based on the size of your project as well as your location.

In reality, a single accurate cost of a kitchen extension will vary depending on a lot of influencing factors, one of which is the type of the extension. Let’s take a look!

✓ Rear extension. You may want to consider this type, if you do not have sufficient space for a side return. This will extend your kitchen into your garden which implies that you’re going to give up some green space to make this a reality. The average price to have this done in London will be about £30,000 or more including VAT, and about £20,000 plus VAT or more in other areas.

✓ Side return extension. This, normally, isn’t a huge add to your property, but will create a lot of space for your kitchen while also be a lot reasonable in terms of cost. This type will extend your home into an alleyway at the side of your property if any is available there. On average, the cost of the side return extension should be about £50,000 plus VAT in London and a lot less in the other regions.

We all know how helpful air conditioning systems can be especially during the hot summer season which is great at making your home feel nothing less than an inferno. So if you have an AC system, you’d probably want to know if leaving it on will be cheaper and more efficient.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, leaving your air conditioning system on will make make it cheaper and more efficient. This isn’t what you or many other people will have in mind though. Under no circumstances should you leave you air conditioning system on full blast 24/7. To make your air conditioning system more efficient by leaving it on has a right and wrong way you can go about it. Let’s have a look!

If you’d ever noticed, any time you turn your air conditioner off during a very a hot day, even if it’s for just a couple of hours, things tend to get thrown out of balance pretty quickly. When turned back on, your AC system will have to work even harder to restore the usual comfort levels in the room. When you abuse this dial in such a fashion, the AC system can only become more inefficient rather than making your home more comfortable quickly.

On the other hand, your AC system ( when tuned to the right settings) can help maintain the proper temperature and humidity balance within your home instead of turning it off while away. And upon getting back, you can simply turn down the thermostat a bit which helps you prevent the usual stagnant air that you’d be hit with when your return home (with the AC system turned off) that’ll have you racing for the dial.