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Most responsible contractors will dispose of the old fencing via an approved commercial waste site. Do check that the cost of taking rubbish away is included in the quotes you receive, otherwise you might find you get stung when it comes to paying for the work.

You might think that all wooden conservatories are the same. But there are actually lots of differences between them, and some conservatories are better than others. One of the most important factors to consider when you’re looking for a wooden conservatory is the type of wood that it’s made from. Generally, there are two different types to look out for: softwood and hardwood. So what wood should be used for a wooden conservatory?

Softwood conservatories are usually made from European redwood or Siberian larch. These types of conservatories are the cheapest wooden conservatories you can buy because the wood grows much faster than hardwoods. However, due to their soft nature, they may only last 7-15 years, reducing their cost-effectivity.

The best wood to use for a wooden conservatory is a hardwood. The most expensive type is oak, but you get what you pay for – it looks fabulous and it can also be coated with a bug and pest-resistant solution to increase its longevity. If you haven’t got the budget for oak, other hardwood options include Brazilian cedar, idigbo and luan, which are still great choices. Make sure you speak to your conservatory installer about the ‘closeness’ of the wood grains, as close-grained hardwoods are said to be the most suitable for conservatories. You should also check that your supplier has strict control of the quality of the wood so can ensure that it’s been well seasoned and prepared for use in construction.

The quick and simple answer to this question is yes, you can definitely spray upvc windows. The upvc looks incredibly great when new and still got that fresh look and smell to it, but like every other thing, with time it begins to fade and look dull. And once it starts to look scruffy there’s no going back no matter how much you cleaned or maintained it. Now instead of going for a replacement upvc windows which can be very costly, you can spend just a fraction of the replacement cost by spraying the upvc windows. The only instance where you’d not be able to paint your upvc window is if the upvc is new or just fitted. This is largely due to the fact that a special type of upvc paint is required. The upvc paint, generally, forms a type of seal and bonds itself to the upvc window. However, it has great difficulty binding to a new upvc but as a large extent of the upvc in the UK is established rather than new, this shouldn’t be a headache for most home and property owners.

Another common reason why people decide to update their upvc with painting is due to the sheer number of colours you can incorporate in the painting. With the wide range of available colours, home owners are spoilt for choices and would opt for the colour that’ll add further accent and style to their homes. What’s more? If you don’t find the specific colour you want in your provider’s catalogue, you can always ask for a mixed colour.

With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.

External Insulation Installation

lRender Test

• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.

• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.

• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.

lPipework Adjustment & Removal

• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting

• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.

lWindow Protection

• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.

lStarter Track Fitting

• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).

• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.

lInsulation Boards Fitting

• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.

• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.

• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards

lMechanical Fixing Inclusion

• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.

• This is to secure the insulation boards.

lBeading Fitting

• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.

lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition

• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.

lPrimer Application

• Paint on the primer

lFinal Render Application

• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.

lPipework Re-installation

• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.

You may need planning permission if you are planning a larger extension. All extensions will need building regulations approval. An architect can assist with this and if planning permission is required. A reputable contractor will also be able to advise you if this is needed as well.

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

Planning permission is not normally needed for a loft conversion as they are covered by permitted development rights. A conversion company will tell you if you do and help you with this. For more information, see our article about planning permission.

Wet rot simply refers to the decay of timber caused by high moisture levels. This natural decay occurs when the moisture content in timber is about 30 percent to 50 percent. This is opposing to dry rot which only occurs as a result of a lower moisture content of about 20 percent. Naturally, a fungus is attracted to very damp wood, which it feeds off and in turn, destroying it. There are a number of fungus types, however the most common type is Coniophora puteana (also referred to as cellar fungus). In general, wet rot is usually confined to a localised damp area and does not spread which makes it a lot less destructive when compared to dry rot. However, if left untreated or totally ignored, wet rot can be just as destructive as dry rot and can greatly reduce the structural strength of the timber thereby causing a major structural damage in the process. So, what causes wet rot? Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that wet rot would be non-existent without a damp area to grow and thrive as wet spores are attracted to wet timber with a high level of moisture content. This moisture can be as a result of a number of issues which includes defective plumbing, leaking gutters, leaking roof, broken pipes, leaking washing machine or a leaking shower tray or bath. When the moisture a timber is exposed to is excessive, this offer the perfect environment for the growth of wet rot as it enables fungal spores to germinate and grow. They use the wet timber as a food source and eat it away, leading to a weakened wood and a compromised structural integrity.