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Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

Tiling your bathroom will not only increase the visual appeal of your space, but also provide an additional layer which helps protect against potential moisture damage, moist growth and also makes the bathroom a lot easier to clean up. So if you’re are looking to tile your bathroom, it’s recommended to get in touch with a skilled professional to ensure you get the best results. However, this guide will provide you with a good insight on how to get through the process smoothly and avoid costly errors. Let’s take a look!

1. Get The Appropriate Substrate
2. Clean the surface on which the tiles will be placed
3. Make use of levelling spacers to ensure the tiles are even.
4. Get a cement-made backer board to install the tiles
5. You may require a large format wall adhesive for the installation, if the tiles are different
6. Set The Layout
7. You may need a dry layout for the tiles installation (installation without mortar or other bonding agents).
8. Start with the first wall opposite the bathroom’s entrance
9. Once completed, you can continue with the remaining parts of the bathroom wall.
10. Place the first tile at the centre.
11. Place the subsequent tiles on each side of the previous ones to have a more balanced installation.

There are three varying materials that can be utilized in installing wall tiles. These includes thin set mortar, epoxy and mastic. However, you should always make use of epoxy for large format tile layout. To do this, simply place the tiles at your desired angle and gently twist them to hold firmly in place. Continue with this process till you have successfully covered the entire bathroom wall with the tiles. Once done, leave the bathroom wall to dry.

It is advised that you hire the professional services of a tile installation company in order to get the best outcome especially if you lack the necessary experience, tools and knowledge to carry out the project. This will save you some time, effort and money.

If you’re thinking about rewiring your three bedroom house, one of the first few things you’d have to put into consideration is the cost of completing the project in order to help you set a budget and start to plan. In this post, we seek to provide you with the most accurate cost possible for your project to help you get started as soon as possible.

In truth, there’s no simple and short answer to this question as the average cost to rewire a house is based on a wide range of factors. For older properties, you may need completely rewire the property in order to enhance the energy efficiency. However, this may not be required the your home was just recently built. Firstly, it should be stated that there are numerous factors that affects the price of a rendering a house which includes the size of the house and its condition, the ease of access, the prep work required, as well as your location and the quality of the contractor your hire. Out of all these factors, the most significant variables are probably the type of rewiring task you go for (whether for the whole house or some specific parts ) as well as the size of the house.

House rewiring is usually a messy and disruptive task which can also be very dangerous especially when handled by a inexperienced individual. As a result, we’d strongly recommend that this task is carried out by a qualified and registered electrician who is well trained to perform this task to perfection. The average cost for electrical rewiring for a three bedroom semi detached house should be within the range of £3000 to £4500, although there may be some extra house rewiring cost that may also arise in the process.

How To Install A Gas Cooktop In An Island

Are you thinking about installing a gas cooktop in your kitchen island? If yes, then you must know that there are clearance requirements that must be met (before you proceed) between the cut out and the countertop’s edge. Basically, there are incremental requirements for island installation due to the fact that it does not make an assumption that the product is going to be fitted against a rear wall that acts to protect the back of the unit. As a result, while doing an island install we must put the safety of the product into consideration much more that we do a standard install. What’s more? This island clearance requirement develops from a third-party agency and is a standard with all brands. So how do you install a gas cooktop in an island having the aforementioned requirements in mind?

• Use a foil tape to line the inside edges of the cut out. The function of this is to prevent heat damage as well as countertop’s discolouration. Put the cooktop top on a secured surface.

• Identify the pipe coming out of the cooktop’s side or bottom and brush onto the threads of the manifold entrance.

• Pass the pressure regulator onto the entrance of the manifold and make use of a wrench to tighten it.

• Brush the pipe joint compound onto one of the flare union adaptor’s threads and pass it into the regulator’s open end. Make it slightly tight with a full turn of the wrench.

• Connect the flare union adaptor’s open end with the flexible appliance connector hose, upon brushing on pipe joint compound.

• Put foam tape on the cooktop underside’s edges, if your cooktop comes with a glass burner plate.

• Turn the cooktop to set it into the cutout.

• Apply pipe-joint compound onto the flare union adaptor left and secure it firmly into the gas shutout valve.

• Connect the flexible hose connector’s free end with the flare union adaptor.

LNB or Low Noise Block simply refers to the feature present at the end of a satellite dish which is attached to the coaxial cables feeding the satellite receiver. There are varying types of LNB which all works in their own special way, however a general function they all provide is to serve as the satellite broadcast signal amplifier and oscillate the signal to a lower frequency band which can be contained by the coaxial cable without too much loss of the cable and the greater the frequency the better the cable resistance and the quicker you’ll lose signal as a result of the cable strength. It should, however, be noted that most LNBs (and not all), oscillate the signal down to the satellite intermediate frequency band ranging from 950Mhz to 2150Mhz.

With the availability of a wide range of LNB types, makes and models, picking the right one for your satellite is crucial as the wrong one may imply your satellite will not work. The most common LNB types are single LNBs and Quad LNBs. The major difference between all types is the amount of output possessed by each LNB. This is what allows extra satellite receivers to be added for additional TV points as well as the inclusion of satellite PVRs which features recordable, play, pause and rewind TV services. For example, a single LNB possesses just one LNB connection for a coaxial cable to be attached. This allows you to connect a standard satellite receiver such as Freesat box or Sky. There are also dual or twin LNB, quad LNB and octo LNB which allows for two (or one satellite PVR), four (two PVRs or one PVR and two standard satellite receivers) and eight separate satellite receivers (four PVRs or combination of both) respectively. There are many other LNB types you can choose from with varying features, so it all depends on your requirements.

When it comes to fence ownership and responsibility, this is often a subject of dispute between neighbours and understandably so. Owning a fence comes with a number of responsibilities such as arranging and paying for the maintenance and more. Therefore, if you’re not yet sure who owns the garden fence, then you’d probably want to have that sorted to make sure your property stays protected at all times. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into some of the rules guiding fence ownership in order to help you make informed decisions. Let’s take a look!

There’s no rule of thumb on whether you own the fence on the right hand or the left hand side of your property. Therefore, if you’ve heard any “rules that states otherwise, you can fling that out the window because not everyone will own the left hand side to their fence. The first way to determine who owns the garden fence or which side of the fence you’re responsible for is simply by looking. Although this is not guaranteed or a definite way to determine ownership, it can go a long way to give you a good idea. As you would have expected, fences are most likely built on the land that belongs to the boundary’s owner with the further edge of the fence making the actual boundary. As a result, you can determine a fence ownership simply by identifying where the frames are.

Also, you can determine fence ownership using the title deeds for an official and accurate answer. A copy should be given alongside your paperwork which is received when purchasing your house.

Also commonly referred to as drywall, plasterboard is an incredibly versatile product which features a sandwich of gypsum plaster between thick paper layers. It’s mainly used on both walls and ceilings due to the wide range of benefits it provides. Not only can plasterboard be made to be humidity resistant, fire resistant as well as noise resistant, but they’re also known to have a low environment impact, easy to repair and can be used to conceal stuff from plain sight. As a result of these benefits couple with the fact that they also happen to be quite affordable, plasterboard has grown to become a ubiquitous phenomenon in modern residential buildings.

When it comes to the installation of plasterboard on ceilings, one of the major sources of concern for several homeowners is the determination of the thickness required to ensure a durable and long-lasting project. If you’re planning to fit plasterboard on your ceiling and wondering the thickness that’ll be appropriate, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight on what plasterboard to use for ceilings. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, the standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much-needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths. Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.